Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Crabby

My 110 L Community Tank

Recommended Posts

Crabby

Hey guys, I thought I‚Äôd just make a single topic for my community tank, so I stop running around in other chats asking the same questions ūüėĀ. I‚Äôm going thru a big change in the tank at the moment, so will likely update in the morning with photos once the cloudiness is gone. Be prepared for a possibly very long message about a 10 hour process ūüėā.

Cheerio!

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

Looking forward to it.ūüėÄ

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

Ok, so I’ve had water hardness issues for a while now, so after determining the issue as the gravel and rocks, I decided to rescape my tank with inert substrate and rocks (rocks looked good, couldn’t help myself...). Yesterday I made the switch, and the process took from about 9 in the morning to 5 in the evening. 

The steps I took (for anyone planning to do this in future) were first emptying the water halfway, then turning off the filter and heater, and realising I’d burnt out the heater (ARGH!), then draining the water to maybe 10 centimetres, and removing the driftwood and plants. The rocks had been removed 2 months prior. I then caught out every last little fish, counting along the way, as well as my shrimp. I chose to keep 5 Malaysian trumpet snails as future breeding stock, cuz they’re really cool (and even better in sand!). I housed my 5 shrimp, trumpet snails and 3 juvenile BNs in a small plastic container, so I could keep track of them, and the rest of the fish in a 50 Litre tub with the plants and wood. The tub was filled to 3/4 with the tank water.

I proceeded to remove the rest of the water, before bagging the gravel to see if I can¬†get a refund. Then I was stuck with this weird black water at the bottom of the tank, along with a little bit of invisible gravel. I removed this with paper towels. Now I cleaned out the tank with my algae scraper and more paper towels (so much for team trees ūüėĄ). Next I cut a black yoga mat down to the size of my tank‚Äôs bottom (idea from Joey, King of DIY) and got a hand to lift the tank up while the mat was slid underneath. This is to cushion out any areas of high pressure, to prevent the glass from cracking, since the cabinet is getting a smidge of swelling. It worked pretty great.

After this, the next stage was to chuck in all the sand. I chose Pisces x Oliver Knott AquaIron, as it is inert, and it looks great so far! Unfortunately it only comes in 15kg, and I needed a 20-25 kegga, so it's spread a bit thin, but it should do. Next step was to set up the hardscape - the driftwood and new rocks (the rocks are called 'red wood rock', lfs said they had tested and they were inert) - so I mucked around and found a good look, then got some help and started to set up for the planting. Got my mate to sort the plants while I filled up the tank with 'aged' dechlorinated¬†water (aged for the hour it took to plant before I could put the fish back in ūüėĄ). Once the water was filled, I stuck the filter on, tried to stick the heater on (and realised it had reached the point of no return, so yay, gotta buy another) and then we started planting. Once it was sorted, I had the fun time of catching all the fish AGAIN, getting them in, and then I got to clean up my huge mess...¬†

One thing I would have changed is acclimating my fish and shrimp before putting them back in the tank. And also not killing my heater. And maybe making a less stressful environment in the holding tub, because my blue Apistogramma turned orange ūüėā

 

Anyway, still have a bunch planned for the tank, next step is grabbing a new test kit (as I've run out) and heater, and seeing if I‚Äôve fixed the problem. From there I can remove the Apistogrammas and change up the stock! I‚Äôll keep this page updated for anyone who cares ūüėĀ

Also photos coming soon of the tank before, after, and during the fix.

ūü¶Äūü¶Äūü¶Ä

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

Photos time.

71304251-288B-424A-91A7-FA553EE7982A.jpeg

87EC4F30-DAD5-43E7-9143-45FF0E358E83.jpeg

6EC8EA19-DD47-43F5-9BB5-C710EA392C99.jpeg

7033E3F6-4B6C-4E27-B116-67DB84784429.jpeg

CB1AE6FA-7DCE-44B4-A8BE-CCBC238A37F8.jpeg

8C5AC585-19B8-4C1F-8B96-71B6A5AEC342.jpeg

515DB571-69A3-462C-826F-1D1EB8803C2B.jpeg

BC42B834-36F8-42C0-AD88-DB02EC5F2425.jpeg

13B31E69-9EC7-4B83-B209-4904CC9501CC.jpeg

FD85681A-D2ED-4B8F-9FF6-B644FD86E267.jpeg

A826DCB2-9739-4B23-B7D5-70403B110182.jpeg

DFF729B5-77AF-4755-BC99-0A17B8118F2A.jpeg

E5DE5C21-7FD6-445A-B00F-E12ADCC4E250.jpeg

778A7C83-A361-4EF7-BDF8-B70D2FD60B12.jpeg

FA18BB85-29D7-4EB5-8F3A-E02EC693870B.jpeg

image.jpg

Edited by Crabclaw
  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Elkwatcher

That's real nice @Crabclaw  Well laid out... black sand sure does make it, and the rock and driftwood are wonderful.  Do you think you might try some floaters?  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby
1 hour ago, Elkwatcher said:

That's real nice @Crabclaw  Well laid out... black sand sure does make it, and the rock and driftwood are wonderful.  Do you think you might try some floaters?  

Thanks Trish! If by floaters you mean floating plants, I have some duckweed in there that’s growing back, but may consider some other larger types once I restock my rocket killies, they love that sort of stuff.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

So I got a new heater at my lfs, and picked up some api liquid testers, and am pleased to say it‚Äôs all looking good! Temp is now sitting at a nice 22¬į, will amp up the heater to get it to 24¬į later. Ammonia is unreadable, as is the Nitrate and Nitrite. pH is at 6.8-6.9, and GH and KH are both at 38.5 ppm. May need to add some GH/KH+ for once!¬†

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sdlTBfanUK

I may have misunderstood but don't you mean GH+ as these are tangerine tiger and you already have KH of about 2???

Tank setup looks great!

Simon

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

Oh, would I need to use just GH+? As I bought GH/KH+ a while ago, thinking that’s what I would need, and have never had to use it thanks to my evil substrate. I don’t really want to be spending another $40 on another product that I might not even need to use. Would I be alright just keeping it as is, so as to not complicate it further, and have more stable parameters? Or would GH/KH+ work, (sorta) as I think it raises the GH further... 

If you do think I need a GH+, then is there another brand that doesn’t cost heaps for a pile of powder?

Anyway, thanks Simon!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

I reckon, do whatever you need to do to maintain the parameters you have right now for Tangerine Tigers.

If GH/KH+ maintains the parameters, than that is what you use.

If you think Salty shrimp is expensive, that's when you need to read my DIY recipe for remineralisers in the Water Parameter subforum.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby
3 hours ago, jayc said:

If you think Salty shrimp is expensive, that's when you need to read my DIY recipe for remineralisers in the Water Parameter subforum.

Will do! Thanks jayc 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sdlTBfanUK

If it is working as it is then I would do as JayC says, TT are almost as tough as cherry shrimps so they may be fine. 

The GH/KH will increase those at 2:1 respectively and I think it may also increase the PH also. It is designed for cherry shrimps but I think you may be ok with TT as well as many people keep those together as they don't interbreed and both are tough? Just be aware that GH/KH+ will affect those 3 parameters and not just the GH!

As I say though, if the shrimps are doing fine maybe don't use anything - if it's not broken don't try and fix it!

Simon

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

My tank is weird...

 

So! Some good news, and some bad news. Bad news first, cuz I gotta get it out. My crypts have all totally melted. Just in the first 3-4 days, they’re practically gone. Just roots and a couple of tiny leaves. My lace fern has done the same, but I think it just died... not sure why, but not a big deal. Will add photos later. Second bit of bad news is that I lost my male endler, Gerald. I don’t understand what happened, as everyone else is doin great, but I saw him one afternoon just staying in one spot in the top left corner of the back, by the heater, and he didn’t look to excited, so I fed some food back for him to see if he would eat. He ate, and I thought it couldn’t be that bad as there were no obvious visible signs of disease, he wasn’t gasping, and wasn’t visibly bloated. The next morning I had just finished feeding when I saw him lying on the bottom of the tank, in a bed of melted crypts, unmoving. He was straight beneath where he had been the previous day, except now Gerald was dead. Again, he didn’t look diseased or anything, just was lying dead on his side. I then removed him and buried beside my one dead shrimp’s grave outside my window. Am going to check the parameters this arvo when I have time. Any ideas on what else it could be?

 

Anyhoo, everyone else is doing very well, and the good news is that I believe my Apistogramma Nijsseni pair are breeding! I have no idea why, as they have just experienced a very stressful change in params (that from my recent research should have probably killed them!).

I may have accidentally caused it by adding an extra cave and increasing the temps to their breeding temperature. I’m still not totally sure, but I’ve been seeing courtship for a while, and two days ago they were doing some crazy aggressive mating-ey stuff. Yesterday I saw that my female was staying in one place along my driftwood, and she hasn’t moved from there since. She looks to be doing very well, still quite active, and has chased a few fish away from her spot. I noticed that there is a deep divot where she is guarding that she goes inside maybe once every two minutes. I can’t see in the hole, have tried everything, but assume from her behaviour that she is guarding eggs. Either way, we’ll know in a few days. I’m a little worried about their chances of survival though (the babies, I mean), in a community tank. I also have no tiny live foods, the best I can do is super fine flakes or pellets. Is hatching baby brine shrimp easy? If so I could try that I guess. 
 

Final thing is that when I got my refund for my bad gravel, I ended up in a long phone call with the guy, who was trying to give me advice. It was veeeeery frustrating, as he keeps saltwater and african cichlids. As such, he said the gravel was great for his tanks, and should be fine for mine.¬†Hmm. Maybe that‚Äôs cuz your fish require a really high level of hardness?! He also said that plants are the worst thing you can put in a tank, that I need to get rid of them ASAP, and that they are the sole reason that algae exists. In addition to that, he said my oversized external canister filter wasn‚Äôt enough for my tank, that I needed a ‚Äėbiological filter‚Äô, and that‚Äôs why my killies died. It was a great convo.

Sorry, just needed to express my frustration with the guy to people who get it. 
 

Thanks for reading this long post, as usual any help is greatly appreciated.

Cheers guys! (And gals and peeps who are neither)

On 11/7/2019 at 8:18 PM, sdlTBfanUK said:

If it is working as it is then I would do as JayC says, TT are almost as tough as cherry shrimps so they may be fine. 

The GH/KH will increase those at 2:1 respectively and I think it may also increase the PH also. It is designed for cherry shrimps but I think you may be ok with TT as well as many people keep those together as they don't interbreed and both are tough? Just be aware that GH/KH+ will affect those 3 parameters and not just the GH!

As I say though, if the shrimps are doing fine maybe don't use anything - if it's not broken don't try and fix it!

Simon

Thanks Simon, forgot to respond to this. I think I’ll leave it as is. Keep it natural.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
9 hours ago, Crabclaw said:

My crypts have all totally melted. Just in the first 3-4 days, they’re practically gone. Just roots and a couple of tiny leaves. My lace fern has done the same

It might grow back, just leave it.

 

9 hours ago, Crabclaw said:

Second bit of bad news is that I lost my male endler, Gerald

9 hours ago, Crabclaw said:

Apistogramma Nijsseni pair are breeding!

Was Gerald and the Apistos in the same tank?

Breeding apitos can kill anything that strays too close. And if the victim can't swim fast to run away, they get pummeled.

 

9 hours ago, Crabclaw said:

Maybe that’s cuz your fish require a really high level of hardness?!

LoL, Durrr. You tell em!

 

9 hours ago, Crabclaw said:

He also said that plants are the worst thing you can put in a tank, that I need to get rid of them ASAP, and that they are the sole reason that algae exists. In addition to that, he said my oversized external canister filter wasn‚Äôt enough for my tank, that I needed a ‚Äėbiological filter‚Äô, and that‚Äôs why my killies died. It was a great convo.

Sigh, I just shake my head at that guys response. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby
7 minutes ago, jayc said:

It might grow back, just leave it.

Suspected so.

8 minutes ago, jayc said:

Was Gerald and the Apistos in the same tank?

Breeding apitos can kill anything that strays too close. And if the victim can't swim fast to run away, they get pummeled.

They were in the same tank, but Gerald was a pretty fast fish. I mean, there’s a chance, but he didn’t look 100% the previous day anyway. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

Quick update -¬†issue with Gerald was not from water params. Checked tonight and are the exact same as last week, very stable so far, so either he had an internal disease or parasite (wish I took a photo!)¬†or he was killed by my apistos... ūüėʬ†

Either way, I’m considering waiting maybe 2-3 more weeks to see if my apistogrammas will breed in the right conditions, and if they don’t I plan to remove them from the tank. This decision would be made for the continuing safety of my current fish and shrimp, and that of the future inhabitants of this tank. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
On 11/19/2019 at 10:05 PM, Crabclaw said:

Quick update - issue with Gerald was not from water params. Checked tonight and are the exact same as last week, very stable so far, so either he had an internal disease or parasite (wish I took a photo!) or he was killed by my apistos

Parasites don't kill their hosts so quickly, it doesn't benefit the parasite. So you can rule that one out.

Diseases also normally take a while, certainly not overnight.

Quick deaths are either toxins/poisons or aggressive breeding apistos. 

Either way, sorry to hear the news. Hope the Apistos make up for it with lots of babies.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

Update:

Everything is going well, other than my breeding attempts with the apistogrammas. They haven’t shown any more intensive breeding behaviour. 
Water params are near perfect. Ammonia nitrite and nitrate at 0, gh 2, kh 1, ph 6.6...

Crypts are growing back, which is great, and plants are doing well in general. Just removed an abundance of duckweed, now the tank isn‚Äôt tinted green anymore ūüėĀ.

Will be removing the apistos after Christmas, and getting the cory cats, neon rainbows and replacement endler. Can’t wait!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

1F59AA80-AC27-4E5A-9AAC-56C2D6566072.jpeg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

Realised I haven't updated too recently on this tank and felt the need, and also am looking for some advice. So the tank has increased in stocking - I now have 4 new endlers (2 half guppy mutt males and a pair of japan blue that I plan to line-breed) as well as a pair that I'm holding for someone else, 2 new mature BNs (one male albino who has successfully reproduced for someone else and a common longfin who I cannot sex yet), and a beautiful pair of Pseudomugil Luminatus, who will hopefully be moving to another tank in the near future.

My two female endlers are heavily pregnant, and are being housed in a breeding box together (I only have one so they're getting a bit grumpy) until they pop. Suspecting/hoping to see fry within the week!

The addition of the 2 large BN seems to have reduced the aggression of my male apisto, which is fantastic! He's been checking the longfin out constantly, going "No fair! I was the largest!", but he has been much more passive. He is still one my favourite fish I've owned, with such fascinating behaviour and intelligence. I plan to breed the BNs all together, to get some albino longfins and calico longfins. I really hope to find some super reds and make a longfin variety of that, because that would be fantastic! PM me if you know a source in Aus.

In terms of the Pseudomugil Luminatus, I was checking out a local store the other day who are closing in Feb, and stumbled upon these guys. The store actually had 3 pseudo species - Gertrudae (Spotted blue-eye), Furcatus (forktail), and the Luminatus, Neon Red Blue-Eye - and I knew I had to get one of them. I settled for the luminatus because they were looking the best, and they're smaller than the furcatus. I've researched them previously so I knew what I was getting into, I just didn't expect to find a local shop that sold them! Speaking of which, the place is called Subscape Aquarium in Abbotsford, and it's worth a visit before you shut if you're in the area. Anyway, I'm hoping to breed the luminatus in my 5 gal, or even keep them in there if I can, as I got a single pair and they only live for 1-2 years. Now I know they're meant to be kept in shoals or schools, but they were selling for $32 a pair, and I just don't have the budget for more than 2 pairs (but I may get another pair if mine are doing well, and if I could fit all 4 in my 5 gal). The fish are doing very well, and colouring up beautifully. I took some nice photos of them with my canon earlier today, so will share as soon as I can. If anyone has experience keeping or breeding these I would appreciate any advice at all that you can give me. @Baccus I know you've kept gertrudae in the past, have you tried these? Or have any breeding advice that might translate?

As mentioned previously I did a photoshoot of the tank and some specimens today, so will post pics and maybe put some up in the gallery.

As always help and advice is highly appreciated.

ūü¶Ä

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sdlTBfanUK

Great t have an update and you have a lot going on there, good luck with it and hopefully you will get baby guppies in a few days.

I can't offer any advise unfortunately (no experience with that) but hopefully someone else can, but I look forward to seeing the photos you took.

Simon

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

I just noticed my longfin has a patch of white on his head/nose, not sure what it is but it sure as heck wasn’t there yesterday! 
Just a scrape, or bacterial/fungal?

8E04E70F-D44B-4390-8527-3389C245EAE9.jpeg

121C4593-7CA2-4219-BF7D-15088917B4A7.jpeg

A264237D-B088-44F5-B59A-EF5076C1BFB2.jpeg

F3FB82EC-DEA0-4317-A2B3-5D80EDC6BBAE.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sdlTBfanUK

First the disclaimer - I have no experience with these fish whatsoever so what follows id based on some research on the internet only.

The mark seems similar to that caused on some peoples fish caused by heater burn and I see you have a long glass heater so the mark could have been caused by that?

The breeding of these fish seems to involve the male cornering the female somewhere, caves or rocks usually and this can be quite aggressive. From the little research I did the male is plumper than the female so this could be a female (looks slim) that a male tried cornering to mate, the mark again looks similar to pictures I saw where the marks were thought to be from mating? 

Is it just marks on the skin or does it protrude when seen side on from the skin, like fungus?

Hopefully someone with experience of these fish will give their thought but this may give you a starting point. Obviously you can eliminate the breeding ritual if you only have the one of these fish etc? I see you have (beautiful) rock which has edges?

Love the ember tetras by the way!

Simon

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Crabby

Thanks Simon. I hadn’t thought about the heater, that could be a possibility. As could breeding damage, as I have males and caves, though I haven’t seen any breeding behaviour. It does look like marks and not protruding. I’m thinking it’s probably a heater burn,  and I think they will go away on their own, yes?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sdlTBfanUK

Try not to worry and just keep an eye and see if anything changes. I expect (though don't know) breeding may happen more when it is dark???? One of the articles I read said you can get heater guards?

Simon

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • Patrick Gagnon
      By Patrick Gagnon
      I recently put in an order for 12 blue dream and 12 cherry shrimp. The shipping was delayed, Harrisburg PA distribution is terrible. Took over 9 days for them to arrive. 0 DOA. Nice! Anyway I've had them now for I'd say 2 weeks. One already is pregnant! And I recently found a guest staying. I have copepods all over, I heard they are fine. I'm not sure what this is. Looks to have antennas, like a snail or something.

    • Chels
      By Chels
      Update: I went with 4 chili rasboras, and could not be happier. They started eating the copepods literally seconds after I put them in the tank, and they even slurp up the detritus worms like spaghetti. They came from a tank with lots of juvenile shrimp, and haven't bothered my shrimp at all even when shoaling. If you want a shrimp-safe fish that will eat your copepods or detritus worms, get some chili rasboras!! 
      Original Post: Accidentally posted this in the new members forum like a true n00b, so im re-posting here where it belongs. 
      Hello all! I've only been keeping shrimp for a few weeks now, but I am already an overfeeding expert.
      Apparently in my zeal to give my shrimp the best life, I have grown a giant colony of copepods which I am worried may harm my first ever newborn shrimplets (which could hatch at any time). I've read that copepods are opportunists who will eat weaker shrimplets if given the chance. And with the amount I have in my tank rn, I foresee my first newborn babies hatching & being instantly swarmed. I also have 3 or so saddled females, soon to be berried females so I want to protect their future babies also. 
      I cannot for the life of me find any recommendations on freshwater fish who won't eat shrimplets. The recommendations are always with the caveat of "but I have total ground cover/top cover so most of my shrimplets survive." I have a ton of plants & hidey holes, but I also have some grazing areas where it's just a small patch of substrate since my shrimp love to be fed in those areas. I just started with 15 shrimp, so I don't have a huge colony and can't afford for any babies to be eaten rn. 
      I do have an albino bristlenose pleco who is very tiny, but she is a lazy betch and hasn't impacted the copepod population. I should also note I am using a 2g nanotank at the moment. It's a mixed tank with cherries, yellows & blue rilli so I can get a lot of different offspring to separate out and form colonies from in bigger 30g tanks. 
      Here are the fish I have heard work great, but may eat *some* shrimplets:
      Endlers (males or fry)
      Ruby tetras
      Rasboras
      Pygmy corys
      Rocket killifish (clownfish)
      Hatchetfish 
      Otocinclus
      Ember tetras
      Neon green tetras
      Gold ring danios
      Lowlight danios
    • Rare Aqua
      By Rare Aqua
      The in depth guide to keeping as well as breeding Amarinus lacustris by Hervey Doerr-Rolley
       
      Overview
      The aim of this article is to educate and warn people of the mistakes I made and how I was successful with breeding and keeping this species. I published an article about this species several years ago so thought it was time for an updated guide for anyone wanting to keep and breed this species. All my knowledge about this species has been developed over the 4 years I've kept this species as well as the many scientific articles I've studied, I first kept this species when I was 15 and now 19, my colony is still going strongly. Currently studying a bachelor of Marine science. Firstly I'd like to point out this species does not have a larval cycle, it is a far too common misconception people have. I believe this thought is derived from their much larger cousin the Amarinus laevis and the Thai micro crab, Limnopilos naiyanetri. Amarinus lacustris have fully formed offspring, meaning their offspring are essentially miniature adults once hatched from their egg. Some points of interest about this species, there are 8 instars before their pubertal moult. Females up to two moults before their pubertal moult can copulate and store spermatozoon, once she reaches the pubertal moult she can then impregnate herself without the need of copulation. The stored spermatozoon can then be used up to 15 separate brood cycles (15 clutches of eggs). Adult females can carry up to *35 eggs (anecdotal) and take around 25-30 days at 15 degrees Celsius to hatch as fully formed offspring. 
       
      Water chemistry
      A. lacustris have a strong preference for hard water, I keep and breed mine in;
      pH: 8-8.2
      Ammonia:0ppm
      Nitrate:0ppm
      Nitrite:0ppm
      KH:125ppm 
      *25% water changes are done weekly*
       
      Breeding and Husbandry 
      Key points for their care;
      Gravel substrate - fine pea gravel is best.
      Air pump sponge filters are essential as this provides cleaner water as well as a feeding ground for the offspring as well as adults.
      Mulm and moss are essential.
      A good rule of thumb from my experience is 500ml of aquarium space per baby-sub adult, and then 1L per adult crab, this allows for less aggression from male to male behavior. It is up to you but the less stocking density the better due to the aggression of breeding from males, keep in mind this aggression is only towards other males however females that are being copulated with may sustain serious injuries if too many males are kept together. The best ratios are two males to 8 females. When a female sheds she releases hormones into the water column just like shrimp, if any of you are familiar with breeding shrimp you can note this by the erratic and fast speeds the males zoom around the aquarium searching for the female, this is the same case with A. lacustris except the swimming, rather they crawl quickly around the aquarium in search for the female to copulate with. Once the male finds the female he will grasp the female tightly underside to underside in a 'hug' embrace, he will then fertilize the female. This embrace can last minutes or hours depending on the male. Eggs will soon become visible and as described above hatch within 25-30 days*. This species is a cold water crustacean so you must remember that, breeding will cease if the temperature goes above 22 Celsius. Keep them in a mature mulm filled aquarium with leaf litter (I use oak leaves) with plenty of hiding spots and moss, a 8pH and 15 Celsius and before you know it you will have berried females.
       
      Feeding
       
      Surprisingly my A. lacustris do not eat commercial foods, I feed mine cultured white worms which are perfect as they grow to a max size of 3cm and survive underwater for several days. I also add snails to my aquarium as the crabs feed on their feces. Funnily enough baby crabs will eat the white worms too once they are 2 instars old, so it is not uncommon to see a 2mm baby crab hanging on to a 2cm long white worm! I feed my crabs every 3 days and small amounts of the worms to reduce water quality issues.
       
      Common questions I am asked 
       
      As I was the first person in Australia and the world to raise fully tank raised F2 offspring i have come across many commonly asked questions. "can I get these crabs in country x?" so far you can legally only get these crabs in their native geographical regions, however once these crabs are even more commonly bred their popularity over the Thai micro crab will be clearly abundant simply due to their ease of breeding which you know, therefore I wouldn't be surprised if these hit the international market once they're being large scale bred. "Do you have any for sale?" when I have crabs for sale I have a waiting list, If you want to ask questions or be on the waiting list email me: zebradanio88@hotmail.com. "can these go with fish x?" if the fish is 4cm or less they are fine generally, my opinion is keep the species only or with shrimp which leads to the next question "are the shrimp safe" and yes they are, however they are naturally scavengers so if you have dead or sick shrimp they will eat them, if your shrimp are healthy they will not predate on them. "how long do they live for?" they live for around 2-3 years+. "why are all my crabs dying" this question is addressed below; 
       
      Major issue that needs to be addressed 
       
      Since my first sales of A. lacustris I suddenly saw a spike of ads for them in Australia, unfortunately I could tell the individuals for sale were all wild caught and at best had only lived in an aquarium for a couple weeks of their life. This then would result in people encouraging the decimation and local extinction of the species in our waterways due to peoples greed of wanting to make a quick buck off this amazing native species. The crabs that I breed and sell are all aquarium raised individuals ONLY, I have put time, money and effort into the crabs I breed to ensure I do not impact the wild populations and offer aquarium suited specimens for people wanting to keep them. I have had a plethora of emails from people asking me why crabs they had sourced outside of my individuals had suddenly died off, this is simply due to the fact these crabs have not been aquarium raised and selectively bred for years like mine have. I find it horrendous that people think it is okay to collect many wild individuals to then sell knowing full well they will die within around a 3 month period just for their sake to make some 'fast' money. So please before you buy from a seller of these crabs ask as many questions as you can to find out how many generations old your crabs are and how long they've been bred for etc. If they cannot supply a high amount of detail or simply quote my articles about them do not buy from that seller. Do not support poachers for your aquarium! This applies with all species, worldwide.
       
      Thank you for reading my article,
      again if you have any questions feel free to email me as I'm always happy to help out ethical keepers and potential breeders of this species.
       
      Author and credits: Hervey Doerr-Rolley

      View full article
    • Rare Aqua
      By Rare Aqua
      The in depth guide to keeping as well as breeding Amarinus lacustris by Hervey Doerr-Rolley
       
      Overview
      The aim of this article is to educate and warn people of the mistakes I made and how I was successful with breeding and keeping this species. I published an article about this species several years ago so thought it was time for an updated guide for anyone wanting to keep and breed this species. All my knowledge about this species has been developed over the 4 years I've kept this species as well as the many scientific articles I've studied, I first kept this species when I was 15 and now 19, my colony is still going strongly. Currently studying a bachelor of Marine science. Firstly I'd like to point out this species does not have a larval cycle, it is a far too common misconception people have. I believe this thought is derived from their much larger cousin the Amarinus laevis and the Thai micro crab, Limnopilos naiyanetri. Amarinus lacustris have fully formed offspring, meaning their offspring are essentially miniature adults once hatched from their egg. Some points of interest about this species, there are 8 instars before their pubertal moult. Females up to two moults before their pubertal moult can copulate and store spermatozoon, once she reaches the pubertal moult she can then impregnate herself without the need of copulation. The stored spermatozoon can then be used up to 15 separate brood cycles (15 clutches of eggs). Adult females can carry up to *35 eggs (anecdotal) and take around 25-30 days at 15 degrees Celsius to hatch as fully formed offspring. 
       
      Water chemistry
      A. lacustris have a strong preference for hard water, I keep and breed mine in;
      pH: 8-8.2
      Ammonia:0ppm
      Nitrate:0ppm
      Nitrite:0ppm
      KH:125ppm 
      *25% water changes are done weekly*
       
      Breeding and Husbandry 
      Key points for their care;
      Gravel substrate - fine pea gravel is best.
      Air pump sponge filters are essential as this provides cleaner water as well as a feeding ground for the offspring as well as adults.
      Mulm and moss are essential.
      A good rule of thumb from my experience is 500ml of aquarium space per baby-sub adult, and then 1L per adult crab, this allows for less aggression from male to male behavior. It is up to you but the less stocking density the better due to the aggression of breeding from males, keep in mind this aggression is only towards other males however females that are being copulated with may sustain serious injuries if too many males are kept together. The best ratios are two males to 8 females. When a female sheds she releases hormones into the water column just like shrimp, if any of you are familiar with breeding shrimp you can note this by the erratic and fast speeds the males zoom around the aquarium searching for the female, this is the same case with A. lacustris except the swimming, rather they crawl quickly around the aquarium in search for the female to copulate with. Once the male finds the female he will grasp the female tightly underside to underside in a 'hug' embrace, he will then fertilize the female. This embrace can last minutes or hours depending on the male. Eggs will soon become visible and as described above hatch within 25-30 days*. This species is a cold water crustacean so you must remember that, breeding will cease if the temperature goes above 22 Celsius. Keep them in a mature mulm filled aquarium with leaf litter (I use oak leaves) with plenty of hiding spots and moss, a 8pH and 15 Celsius and before you know it you will have berried females.
       
      Feeding
       
      Surprisingly my A. lacustris do not eat commercial foods, I feed mine cultured white worms which are perfect as they grow to a max size of 3cm and survive underwater for several days. I also add snails to my aquarium as the crabs feed on their feces. Funnily enough baby crabs will eat the white worms too once they are 2 instars old, so it is not uncommon to see a 2mm baby crab hanging on to a 2cm long white worm! I feed my crabs every 3 days and small amounts of the worms to reduce water quality issues.
       
      Common questions I am asked 
       
      As I was the first person in Australia and the world to raise fully tank raised F2 offspring i have come across many commonly asked questions. "can I get these crabs in country x?" so far you can legally only get these crabs in their native geographical regions, however once these crabs are even more commonly bred their popularity over the Thai micro crab will be clearly abundant simply due to their ease of breeding which you know, therefore I wouldn't be surprised if these hit the international market once they're being large scale bred. "Do you have any for sale?" when I have crabs for sale I have a waiting list, If you want to ask questions or be on the waiting list email me: zebradanio88@hotmail.com. "can these go with fish x?" if the fish is 4cm or less they are fine generally, my opinion is keep the species only or with shrimp which leads to the next question "are the shrimp safe" and yes they are, however they are naturally scavengers so if you have dead or sick shrimp they will eat them, if your shrimp are healthy they will not predate on them. "how long do they live for?" they live for around 2-3 years+. "why are all my crabs dying" this question is addressed below; 
       
      Major issue that needs to be addressed 
       
      Since my first sales of A. lacustris I suddenly saw a spike of ads for them in Australia, unfortunately I could tell the individuals for sale were all wild caught and at best had only lived in an aquarium for a couple weeks of their life. This then would result in people encouraging the decimation and local extinction of the species in our waterways due to peoples greed of wanting to make a quick buck off this amazing native species. The crabs that I breed and sell are all aquarium raised individuals ONLY, I have put time, money and effort into the crabs I breed to ensure I do not impact the wild populations and offer aquarium suited specimens for people wanting to keep them. I have had a plethora of emails from people asking me why crabs they had sourced outside of my individuals had suddenly died off, this is simply due to the fact these crabs have not been aquarium raised and selectively bred for years like mine have. I find it horrendous that people think it is okay to collect many wild individuals to then sell knowing full well they will die within around a 3 month period just for their sake to make some 'fast' money. So please before you buy from a seller of these crabs ask as many questions as you can to find out how many generations old your crabs are and how long they've been bred for etc. If they cannot supply a high amount of detail or simply quote my articles about them do not buy from that seller. Do not support poachers for your aquarium! This applies with all species, worldwide.
       
      Thank you for reading my article,
      again if you have any questions feel free to email me as I'm always happy to help out ethical keepers and potential breeders of this species.
       
      Author and credits: Hervey Doerr-Rolley
    • Chels
      By Chels
      Hello all! I've only been keeping shrimp for a few weeks now, but I am already an overfeeding expert.
      Apparently in my zeal to give my shrimp the best life, I have grown a giant colony of copepods which I am worried may harm my first ever newborn shrimplets (which could hatch at any time). I've read that copepods are opportunists who will eat weaker shrimplets if given the chance. And with the amount I have in my tank rn, I foresee my first newborn babies hatching & being instantly swarmed. I also have 3 or so saddled females, soon to be berried females so I want to protect their future babies also. 
      I cannot for the life of me find any recommendations on freshwater fish who won't eat shrimplets. The recommendations are always with the caveat of "but I have total ground cover/top cover so most of my shrimplets survive." I have a ton of plants & hidey holes, but I also have some grazing areas where it's just a small patch of substrate since my shrimp love to be fed in those areas. I just started with 15 shrimp, so I don't have a huge colony and can't afford for any babies to be eaten rn. 
      I do have an albino bristlenose pleco who is very tiny, but she is a lazy betch and hasn't impacted the copepod population. I should also note I am using a 2g nanotank at the moment. It's a mixed tank with cherries, yellows & blue rilli so I can get a lot of different offspring to separate out and form colonies from in bigger 30g tanks. 
      Here are the fish I have heard work great, but may eat *some* shrimplets:
      Endlers (males or fry)
      Ruby tetras
      Rasboras
      Pygmy corys
      Rocket killifish (clownfish)
      Hatchetfish 
      Otocinclus
      Ember tetras
      Neon green tetras
      Gold ring danios
      Lowlight danios
√ó
√ó
  • Create New...