-
Similar Content
-
By Patrick Gagnon
I recently put in an order for 12 blue dream and 12 cherry shrimp. The shipping was delayed, Harrisburg PA distribution is terrible. Took over 9 days for them to arrive. 0 DOA. Nice! Anyway I've had them now for I'd say 2 weeks. One already is pregnant! And I recently found a guest staying. I have copepods all over, I heard they are fine. I'm not sure what this is. Looks to have antennas, like a snail or something.
-
By SonoranStorm
Hi all.
So some background
My 10g tank has:
Blue Dreams
Amanos
1 Cardinia that stowed away in a plant shipment I got
3 Rainbow Paskais
1 Celestial Danio
Phoenix Moss
Crinum Calamistratum (Onion Plant)
Nymphaea Zenkeri (Tiger Lotus)
Bolbitis Heudelotii (Creeping Fern)
Eleocharis sp. Mini (Mini Dwarf Hairgrass )
Micranthemum (Monte Carlo)
A random piece of Subwasstertang
algea but i dont want that
The overall goal of this tank is to be a shrimp tank with the neos and maybe a species of Caridina once I'm a little more experienced. But I have a hard time keeping the neos alive a friend who owns the LFS ive been buying them at recommended i try buying from a local shrimper because his shrimp might be more well suited to the local water than the shrimp he buys from abroad because he thinks its weird that im having a tough time with Neos. So I did just that when i met up with him he told me co2 might be the issue since it makes the water acidic and makes molting hard and it makes the water parameters more unstable so I stopped using Co2 for the time being and the shrimp look healthy. But the issue is I would like to keep using Co2 for the benefits to the plants and because id like to keep the carpet ive been working on.
Current Parameters
Temp: 74.5 F/ 23.6 C
Ph: Between 6 and 6.4 (im bad at colors) but its yellow (API Test)
Kh: 4 drops the chat says 4 degrees 71 PPM
Gh: 6 drops the chart says 6 degrees 107 PPM
TDS: Waiting on a meter from amazon.
Lights are on between 4 PM and 9:30 PM for those who don't do the military time. Bellow are the spectral percentages of light if this helps anyone.
Any advice on how and if I should add Co2?
-
By stlcopperhead
Hi all,
I’m confused about the ID on this parasite/infection my neo has. She has nothing on her head/rostrum at all...it seems to be mostly around her eggs, with some on her shell, off to the side.
I’ve done one salt dip on her already, and no change so far.
I have some great pics of it, but even a single pic is apparently much to be posted here. Can someone help me out with that? Newbie, here. ?
-
By sdlTBfanUK
I think it is time I start thinking about resetting my tank and ordering supplies. My taiwan bee tank is up to PH7.5 (I need to check this though with a NEWER test kit first to check the kit is working correctly) and has been creeping up over time. There are no obvious signs of a problem with the shrimps whatsoever (incidentally I had half hoped that it may slow down the breeding but it appears that was not the case, dammit), so I am not rushing into doing this but as summer seems to be arriving I feel less reluctant to faff about with buckets of water than I have until now! The tank has been running on JBL Proscape shrimp soil but only the one bag of 3L which is about 3//4 inch and clearly that may be why it hasn't lasted as long as I thought it would so I am planning on using 2 x 3L bags this time which should be about 1.5 inches, Is that enough? I only used 1 bag before as I have to admit I don't particularly like looking at inches of dead space at the bottom of a tank when it has a clear glass front so you can see the substrate. I did have a geode in the tank as decoration but that has been removed now, but that may have affected the PH etc. It has 30L of water in the tank. The water that goes into the tank is Ph 5.5 so I'm not sure why the Ph has risen tp 7.5 other than the geode maybe?????
My questions are,
1) Is 1.5 inches (6L) of substrate sufficient for 30L tank?
2) Will having more substrate than before extend the time before the tank needs to be reset again or will it not affect the length of time the soil works/buffers?
3) Do I even need to change the soil and reset the tank as everything seems to be fine otherwise?
Allowing 1 week for getting the stuff and then the 2 weeks prepping the soil in the bathroom it will be a month probably before I actually do the mammoth task of changing everything around.
Simon~
-
By FrumpyJack
I have only been keeping Neocaridinas for about two months now, I have 10 blue dream neos in one tank, and 12 orange neos in a separate tank. The tank with the 10 blue dream neos has been slightly problematic though because it's a smaller tank and waste builds up a little faster.
That being said, can anybody ID this swimmer in my shrimp tank? There is only 1 that I can see, it appears to have an exoskeleton almost like a shrimp, and it swims at the surface of the water by whipping its tail. I don't think it's a baby shrimp fry because I'm just now seeing my first female berried up and there haven't been any births before, but I suppose it is possible a fry snuck in with my order. Any help would be appreciated ?
-
-
Must Read SKF Articles
-
-
Posts
-
By beanbag · Posted
yes, it's the shed shells. now that I think about it, I also remember in the video the bugs were clear, and I have seen clear ones before too, a long time ago. But these recent ones were dark colored. So I have two tanks. In one of them, where I normally have this problem, I have been dosing antibiotics. The short version is that most of the shadow panda and RWP shrimp have got this disease, but they haven't died either. But they don't recover either. They just simply stop growing and stay at a small size with stumpy short antenna. The first shadow panda that got this problem is still alive maybe 2-3 months later. In my other tank which often doesn't have this problem also got it, but it seems to have hit harder, where both "almost adult" shadow panda suddenly got it and died within a few days. Antibiotics didn't save them. It's too weird - it seems like this problem comes on suddenly, with no trigger that I can think of. (besides "the weather was warm and I ran the air conditioned". This doesn't actually affect the water temperatures since I have a chiller, but maybe something blew into the tank?) -
By sdlTBfanUK · Posted
Sorry for the delay, I have been searching on here and the wider web but cannot find what you are referring too! I do know which video you are talking about and remember seeing it. The video was of a shed shell rather than a live shrimp! Are you seeing them on live shrimp? From memory I don't think it was anything to worry about and I very much doubt it would discriminate between different colours of shrimp, but was probably nothing to worry about and just part of the life in aquariums, like detritus worms and other life forms. I think they were colourless in the video, if my memory is any good? Are you still getting shadow panda deaths? -
By beanbag · Posted
Hello folks, I remember reading about this a few years ago but for the life of me cannot find this info / thread again. Can somebody point me to a link for this info? I forgot the forum I saw it on. There was a discussion about how if you look at a shrimp molt shell under a microscope or loupe, sometimes you can see tiny "bugs" or whatever moving around inside. At that time, I think the conclusion was that maybe it was a symbiotic relationship because it even happened with healthy shrimp. But I can't remember if this occurred only in neocaridina or caridina also? I just happened to look at a shadow panda's (caridina) shell who is sick with the "shortened antenna disease" that I always complained about. There were tiny blue/black spots moving around inside. I also looked at the molt shells of some blue bolts that don't have this problem, and there were very few, or none, spots moving around inside the molt shell. I wonder if this could be some symbiotic relationship gone wrong and is the actual (proximate) cause of the problem. (Since antibiotics didn't really seem to work) In that case, I would need some kind of anti-parasite medication to cure the shrimps. What are the typical internal anti-parasite medications for shrimps? -
By sdlTBfanUK · Posted
You may end up losing this batch entirely but then you can start completely fresh and get the aquarium set up right for the next batch of shrimp! If you do any large water changes then try and add the new water slowly, either dripper or some other way. You should get yourself a TDS meter (as JayC above), they are cheap and readily available. You should always use a GH tester kit as well with shrimps, if you do the 50% water change that should halve the GH so you should get a reading after that, or if you can get a local fish store to test it for you that will give you an idea of the GH. If your water supply is as hard as it appears it may be you will need to mull over how (or even IF) you want to keep shrimps as that may mean using RO or distilled/bottled water and buying a proper shrimp specific remineraliser? That will be quite expensive but you won't then have to mess about adding crushed coral/eggshells etc, but only you can decide whether you want to do/spend that much etc? If you live somewhere that gets a lot of rain, then you can use rain water? Also, as JayC states, you need to know what you are using/adding to the water and aquarium, ie fertilizers, rocks. Unless you have very exotic plants you shouldn't need any fertilizers. Just as a note, we have come across quite a few experienced fish keeprs that have this sort of start off issues with shrimp. Shrimp are more difficult than fish, and the aquarium and water etc need to be ready and within the required parameters before getting the shrimps. Usually people jump in, get the shrimps before everything is ready/sorted. Hopefully though you will keep at it, or if this lot die you will have another go and we can help you get it sorted? -
By jayc · Posted
These are all classic symptoms of shrimp moulting problems. Again, another high GH symptom. High GH not only causes harder carapace (shell), but it also makes eggs harder. When the egg is harder the male finds it more difficult to fertilise the eggs. That's a worry if you can't get a good GH reading because that is going to be most likely issue right now for you. Because snails don't moult. If you dont already have a TDS meter, I suggest getting one asap. It's another test to narrow down your water parameters, and not have to trust one test by it's own - in this case the GH test kit. I would wager your water parameter is too high in dissolved minerals - likely from the tap water source, fertiliser dosing and/or any rocks/crushed corals you might have in the tank. To remedy this, you need to start doing water changes with RO, distilled or rain water immediately. I would do a 50% water change with RO water asap. Then look for sources that increase GH in the tank and eliminate it - fertilisers, rocks, crush corals, shells. It's difficult to save a shrimp who's carapace is already too hard, but hopefully any younger shrimps will benefit from the water change and the reduced GH. Good luck and keep us updated.
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now