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    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m really wanting to get freshwater crabs, and the only ones I’ve found are A. Lacustris and A. Laevis. I can only put them in a 110 L community tank for now, but may have another option in the future. The tank is stocked with a large school of ember tetras, some rocket killies, some endlers, some tangerine tiger shrimp, and a pair of apistogrammas. Rare aqua advised that A. Lacustris would likely be eaten by the apistos, so the obvious choice would be A. Laevis, because they’re larger... right? But I’m worried that they might predate upon my shrimp, so wanted to hear some advice and opinions from more people with experience keeping these crabs.
      Cheers!
    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m really wanting to get freshwater crabs, and the only ones I’ve found are A. Lacustris and A. Laevis. I can only put them in a 110 L community tank for now, but may have another option in the future. The tank is stocked with a large school of ember tetras, some rocket killies, some endlers, some tangerine tiger shrimp, and a pair of apistogrammas. Rare aqua advised that A. Lacustris would likely be eaten by the apistos, so the obvious choice would be A. Laevis, because they’re larger... right? But I’m worried that they might predate upon my shrimp, so wanted to hear some advice and opinions from more people with experience keeping these crabs.
      Cheers!
    • bristlenose
      By bristlenose
      Hi, I've kept Red cherry shrimp for at least 3 years. I've never had a problem with them. I used to keep my shrimp in 500l tank but i got careless while buying plants and introduced planaria into my aquarium. I only noticed after the numbers got out of hand and i noticed the shrimp deaths adding up. I moved 200-300 shrimp into a standard 4ft tank planted aquarium and dosed with noplanaria along with melafix to ward off any bacterial infections. There were multiple dozens of shrimp shells all over after being moved. Initially i believed it may have been the planaria/bacterial/constant water changes/stress of new environment(i drip acclimated them for a 5 hours) that was killing them but i haven't changed the water in a 2 months but i still get the occasional death, 1 or 2 every few days. There are decent amounts of cuttlebone in the filter and also in the aquarium itself, and i also feed them the occasional powdered egg shells but i still get molting problems. Adults and also the month olds are dying, no discrimination. They're fed every other day shrimp snow, high protein discus granules and zucchini/pumpkin/spinach/dry seaweed every 3-4 days. I can see many berried females and small shrimp and also babies but i'm still losing shrimp constantly, easily 80+ in total. I don't want to buy a gh/kh test, they have never had any problems with molting in their last aquarium so can't quite understand why they're having problems now in the 150l. I've read so much online but i can't seem to find an answer, i'd sincerely appreciate any advice i can get. Thank you so much if you've managed to read all of this. Please feel free to ask any questions. The photo is from the current setup they're in.
      Previous tank parameters:
      Ammonia: 0 
      nitrite: 0 
      nitrates: 20ppm
      Ph: 8
      substrate: sand 
      Lighting: generic LED lights i got off ebay
      I don't know any other parameters.  cuttlebone in the tank and filter, no ferts, heavily infested with guppy grass. Large colony of bristlenose. 
      New tank parameters:
      ammonia: 0
      Nitrite: 0
      Nitrates:30-40ppm 
      co2: 3-4 bps 
      Ph: 6.5
      Lighting: generic LED lights i got off ebay
      substrate: ada aquasoil
      The new tank is heavily planted and dosed with root tabs and liquid ferts. Cuttlebone in the tank and filter. 6 large pieces of seiryu stone 17kg (i doubt they're authentic so they're some kind of limestone) Shrimp only tank
       

    • Seattleshrimp
      By Seattleshrimp
      Hi ! 
      I live in Seattle where the water is incredibly soft and I have a tap water pH of 6.7, GH of 0-1 and KH 2. My existing tank with plants already has buffered substrate. Would I have better chance of keeping CRS than RCS with my current water parameters ? Or would RCS do okay?    I do have an RO system already, and I could  remineralize my water with salty shrimp KH/GH+. Which would allow my GH and KH parameter to be okay for neocaridinas, but I already have a tank with active substrate. I’m 100% I don’t have space to set up another tank with inert substrate.    Would do you recommend ? What are pH you have successfully kept neocaridinas and have them thriving ?    Thanks ! I appreciate all the help as I am new to the hobby. 
    • TotalNewb
      By TotalNewb
      Help please!
      I bought a rack set up with 9 tanks and a sump. It is full of stock, neo-cardinia, cardinia  and sulawazi shrimps + a tank of endler guppys. 
      I am collecting it tomorrow with help from friends and a borrowed van. 
      Has anyone moved a rack before and what tips can they share please?
      We were thinking of lowering the water level right down and then moving them very gently in the cars - with the water in 25L drums in the van cause I don't have that much RO water spare so it will be going back in as soon as we can set it up. 
      They are moving less than 2km down the road and I will have my heating on full blast to keep the house warm - current temperature here is about 10 degrees celcius. 
      I am worried about the Sulawasis but I reckon if we keep them plugged in with the heater for as long as possible and put them back ASAP they "Should" be ok...fingers crossed. 
       
      I just read that tanks should never be moved with water in them but it will take HOURS to catch all the shrimp as there are literally hundreds of them


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    • DNTM_Shrimp_Breeders
      Yes, I can confirm that rock / pebble rock / gravel will cause the pH to raise over time.  My RODI water comes out as around 6.8 according to my pH meter.  And I did follow the manufacturer's suggestion to wait 5-6 minutes when measuring RODI water because of the low ion.  After adding it to the tank, the pH becomes 7.2 -> 7.4.  The highest that I've recorded in my journal is 7.6 but it never goes higher than that. Here is my shrimp's diet: On M-W-F, I feed Bacter AE + Shrimp Baby.  On T-TH-S, I feed Shrimp Dinner. And on Sunday, I feed Shrimp King Protein to increase shrimp production.  Water change is once a month because I have a ton of floating plants to keep Nitrate low. @sdlTBfanUK It's probably because of the low quality image so it makes some of the PRL babies' color turn black 😁 But there are no CBS at all in this shrimp tank
    • sdlTBfanUK
      That's very interesting. I have read a lot that PH fluctuates throughout the day naturally anyway but it is interesting that your Bee shrimp are fine at PH7.4 as indeed mine were also (although it is normally outside their ideal range)! The PH in my tank started at about 5.5 and then went up to 7.5 over about a year (rock caused that I suspect) but as it was a slow progression it didn't seem to have any affect on them at all! It looks like you have some crystal black babies in that tank as well? Simon
    • DNTM_Shrimp_Breeders
      @sdlTBfanUK pH is around 7.4 in the morning and 7.2 at night.  I know it's dangerous and easy to have pH swing when you don't have active substrate.  That's why I measure pH at least twice a day using the pH meter.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Great picture and love the shrimplets. Also pleased to hear it is all working so well! Do you now what the PH is of the new 20G tank? Simon
    • sdlTBfanUK
      That sounds great and pleased you have decided to go ahead. As you don't have any occupants in the tank at the moment it should be easy to get the tank parameters right by doing the planned water changes and add very little of the GH/KH+ until you have done the last large water change on Tuesday, that way it is easier to add the GH/KH+ to the level you want directly into the tank then - easier than finding it is over and having to get it down?  IF you were thinking of getting the shrimps from ProShrimp, they have quite a variety, bear in mind that there is postage cost only to a certain value (I think it is £35) so it may be better value to order a few more shrimps instead of paying the postage - if that makes sense??? If you are having them delivered Prohrimp or ebay you need to be home to sign/receive them obviously and IF using ebay MAKE SURE the seller is sending 'Express Delivery (Royal Mail Special Delivery (TM) 1:00 pm)'! Hopefully we will hear that everything has worked out well and all the hassle hasn't marred the experience.  Simon
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