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    • Crabby
      By Crabby
      Hey folks!
      So I got myself a little 5 gallon (20L) recently (it was free!) to use for quarantine. I’m going to use it to qt some cory cats and maybe some tetras or gouramis for my community tank. The thing is, I’ve got it set up really nicely in my room and I want to have it actually stocked. I definitely don’t want a betta, but I found some super cute guppies on gumtree (Wild Thai Orchid) that I can never find locally. How many guppies do u think I could get in the tank?? The seller only has 4 pairs, so is selling in pairs but not trios, so that could have an affect on the amount. I also plan on adding shrimp, either of a neo or caridina variety, or native - like dae or chameleons. 
      So my questions are: how many guppies could go in the tank (assuming they breed and I keep the babies in with them for about a month each time), could I fit in anything else (with a pair or 4), like a couple of chilli rasboras or rocket killies, and will the shrimps be enough for a cleanup crew, or should I add an Otto or something?
      Cheers!
    • Crabby
      By Crabby
      Hey everyone,
      I was recently (meaning today) given the opportunity to set up a breeding tank for some native inverts (or some harder to breed fish I guess, but I want to go for shrimp) in a fishroom I help out in. I've been trying to decide what native shrimp I want to try breeding, but then I remembered that it's not as simple as exotics. Can I get some input from the 'experts' (@Grubs, @NoGi, @Baccus, @fishmosy, @jayc of course, I know most of you aren't very active anymore, but I would appreciate your help if you see this message) on what native invert you guys think is easiest to breed (for a semi-noob who hasn't kept natives before). I can set it up as brackish I think, we have an archer fish tank there and are setting up a saltwater as well so should have access to those tools and materials.  
      Cheers!
    • Crabby
      By Crabby
      Hey guys, I thought I’d just make a single topic for my community tank, so I stop running around in other chats asking the same questions 😁. I’m going thru a big change in the tank at the moment, so will likely update in the morning with photos once the cloudiness is gone. Be prepared for a possibly very long message about a 10 hour process 😂.
      Cheerio!
    • Crabby
      By Crabby
      Hey guys, just found an add for this website showcasing a cool-lookin native algae eating shrimp.
      https://algaeeatingshrimp.com.au/products/australian-algae-eating-shrimp
      Anyone heard of these before or own any? My interest was peaked by the claim that they eat hair-type algae, as I have some on my crypts and lace fern that I cannot remove. And for a price of $4 ea, and super easy parameters, they sound pretty doable! 
      Tell me more oh great SKFians! 😁
      (or feel free to point me towards an already existing page)
      post-note: have you/do you keep these grubs? Seems like your sort of thing.
    • Linden
      By Linden
      Hello. I've written the following based on my own time scouring the internet and then personal experiences with my mud crab Gaston.      Mud crab aquarium care.    Tank setup: Minumim 4ft aquarium. A 4x2 ft much better.  Like with turtles, larger footprint is important. Not so much how tall the tank is. Seriously big crabs. Be open to having a 6ft aquarium if you plan on risking tank mates (other than glass shrimp, snails and tiny fish). Unless your in Western Australia, you'll get Scylla serrata aka Green mud crab (not named green for being green. Can be brown and blue also). They can grow up to 30cms and 2.5kgs with 20cm claws.   Have a cycled aquarium with brackish water about 1.006-1.010 SG. Heated 19-25°c. PH around 7 or higher. Harder water is important. Crushed coral can help balance out soft tap water and the use of driftwood. Breaking up some cuttlefish bone in the water column is important. Calcium for shell development. They are from estuaries. So have a great tolerance for temperature and salinity fluctuations.   Decent filtration is a must as they are exceptionally messy eaters. I recommend a sump. The crabs are very strong and can snap heaters, damage power cables and move tubing. So a sump for the hygrometer and heater helps, with the benefit of the overflows and returns being secure. Also clamps to hold parts in place. Pvc tubing can be used to protect power cables and keep equipment protected.   The lid needs to be very secure. With only small gaps and also weighted down. The crabs are strong and can easily lift glass. Some additional glass pieces on the lid to keep it down is recommended.     The crabs will want to get their mouths above the water line periodically. So don't fully fill the aquarium. About 20cm deep. Deeper depending on if you have driftwood or rock climbing areas so it can still reach above water line. Note: ensure all rocks and driftwood are very securely and purposefully positioned. Remember they are very strong and can move unsecured rocks and driftwood. Poorly placed rocks could be moved and break the tank. Using larger rocks and wood is safer than easier to move small pieces.   Sand as a substrate is best. 6cm or so deep. Mixed with some crushed coral and aesthetic gravel. They sift through sand for scraps plus it will help fill cracks between rocks n such to secure them even more.   They will eat plants. So not a great aesthetic addition.     Don't put strong lighting on the tank. The crabs like to hide. Plus they'll grow algae over their carapace under too strong and or long exposure. Glass shrimp will help keep this down.    Aquiring:  Can be bought from a fish market. Sold as live food. About $50 per kilo. A standard mud crab will be about 0.8-1.4kgs. Google how to pic a healthy mudcrab. You want to select the healthiest male you can get (not the biggest). Note. They'll all be male.  Transport in Styrofoam box or esky with a little ice. They'll wrap it in newspaper.   When home. Unpack it (keep the claw string on) then move it into a large container or tank with no water for about an hour as they 'defrost'. Remove the claw holding string as you move into their aquarium. Have a friend around to help with lid for safety reasons.    Feeding:  They are scavengers and eat a wide variety of foods. They will make a big mess when they do, so some glass shrimp, Malaysian trumpet snails and a few tiny fish are beneficial for cleaning up the shower of food particles.   My favourite foods to feed are small whole cooked tiger prawns and marinara mix from the deli. Some white fish cut into pieces then frozen. Repashy with added calcium (powdered egg shells or cuttlefish bones). Make big skeets in flat zip lock bags and freeze. Snap off a piece for feeding.     Can also feed worms, clams, scollops, crab pieces, garden snails, plant matter (like excess Elodea from another tank).  A varied diet is important. But most of all is getting plenty of calcium in their diet. The repashy +calcium or a similar diy mix with agar agar, calcium, seafood and added vegetables is gold.     It might not take to eating well initially. I recommend using long planting tweezers. Carefully. Don't want them to grab the tweezers.   You can train them onto eating by attaching a piece of meat or prawn to some cotton string. Jerk it around infront of him until he goes for it. Might take a few tries. Don't leave large pieces of uneaten food in the tank to spoil. Be very careful putting hands into the tank. They can go from slow to very fast moving in an instant.  Here's my Gaston. 

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  • Posts

    • Wilbergz
      Tap is what im using, thank you for the help
    • Subtlefly
      Thanks for your input.. the tank is cement and is under our house, its what I use to top up my outdoor pond when it loses evaporation and the shrimp living out there are breeding.  I will certainly look into test kits but to begin with I am just going to cycle the tank with plants.  Thanks again!
    • sdlTBfanUK
      It is best to test the parameters of the 'source' water and go from there. Many people use dechlorinated tap water successfully with cherry shrimp (me included), but rainwater or RO water you will need to mineralise the water. I guess it is a bit too early at this stage as you don't have the tank yet, but you may want to ge the test kits so you are ready to go anyway - TDS meter/pen, GH, KH, PH and of course ammonia/nitrite/nitrate for cyclng the tank. I guess you can make life easier when you have the tests by testing the different 'sources' so you can get any minerals etc ready as well, and decide which source is going to best suit cherry shrimps? Rainwater is likely near to RO water so will likely need minerals added, and what is the storage tank/guttering made of, as some metals are toxic to shrimp, especially copper? Sorry, got a bit off original topic. All the equipment you originally listed looks good and well thought out from what I saw but as I am in UK it isn't the same 'stuff' here so hopefully someone from Australia will help with that aspect. Simon
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I have often got odd groups of fungus growing when setting up new tanks, though not seen it on any shrimp, usually wood or ornaments etc and that clears itself in time once the tank is properly cycled and settled down. If he seems happy and active just keep a close eye on him and see how it progresses (hopefully disappears). Maybe the tank wasn't quite ready for him? I'm not quite sure how quickly/easy it is to cycle/establish when there are no plants, it may take longer as they are usually a part (speed up) of the process I would think, and if you have just got an ammonia reading this week? Keep testing Ammonia/nitrite and nitrate regulary at this point? If the ammonia gets too high it is normal to do a large water change, but that may trigger a molt so only do that if absolutely necessary. Don't overfeed the fish either (common mistake) as that may cause extra ammonia? What water are you using, RO or Tap? Simon
    • Subtlefly
      So we have a rainwater tank under our house and I have a pond in the yard - was kind of planning on using rain water or water that has been cycling through my backyard pond, native pacific blue eye fish and native red nosed shrimp out there doing their own thing.   If I am stuck and in a drought then I might have to resort to filtered tap water...  does this sound like a plan?
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