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    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I thought I’d just make a single topic for my community tank, so I stop running around in other chats asking the same questions 😁. I’m going thru a big change in the tank at the moment, so will likely update in the morning with photos once the cloudiness is gone. Be prepared for a possibly very long message about a 10 hour process 😂.
      Cheerio!
    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, just found an add for this website showcasing a cool-lookin native algae eating shrimp.
      https://algaeeatingshrimp.com.au/products/australian-algae-eating-shrimp
      Anyone heard of these before or own any? My interest was peaked by the claim that they eat hair-type algae, as I have some on my crypts and lace fern that I cannot remove. And for a price of $4 ea, and super easy parameters, they sound pretty doable! 
      Tell me more oh great SKFians! 😁
      (or feel free to point me towards an already existing page)
      post-note: have you/do you keep these grubs? Seems like your sort of thing.
    • Linden
      By Linden
      Hello. I've written the following based on my own time scouring the internet and then personal experiences with my mud crab Gaston.      Mud crab aquarium care.    Tank setup: Minumim 4ft aquarium. A 4x2 ft much better.  Like with turtles, larger footprint is important. Not so much how tall the tank is. Seriously big crabs. Be open to having a 6ft aquarium if you plan on risking tank mates (other than glass shrimp, snails and tiny fish). Unless your in Western Australia, you'll get Scylla serrata aka Green mud crab (not named green for being green. Can be brown and blue also). They can grow up to 30cms and 2.5kgs with 20cm claws.   Have a cycled aquarium with brackish water about 1.006-1.010 SG. Heated 19-25°c. PH around 7 or higher. Harder water is important. Crushed coral can help balance out soft tap water and the use of driftwood. Breaking up some cuttlefish bone in the water column is important. Calcium for shell development. They are from estuaries. So have a great tolerance for temperature and salinity fluctuations.   Decent filtration is a must as they are exceptionally messy eaters. I recommend a sump. The crabs are very strong and can snap heaters, damage power cables and move tubing. So a sump for the hygrometer and heater helps, with the benefit of the overflows and returns being secure. Also clamps to hold parts in place. Pvc tubing can be used to protect power cables and keep equipment protected.   The lid needs to be very secure. With only small gaps and also weighted down. The crabs are strong and can easily lift glass. Some additional glass pieces on the lid to keep it down is recommended.     The crabs will want to get their mouths above the water line periodically. So don't fully fill the aquarium. About 20cm deep. Deeper depending on if you have driftwood or rock climbing areas so it can still reach above water line. Note: ensure all rocks and driftwood are very securely and purposefully positioned. Remember they are very strong and can move unsecured rocks and driftwood. Poorly placed rocks could be moved and break the tank. Using larger rocks and wood is safer than easier to move small pieces.   Sand as a substrate is best. 6cm or so deep. Mixed with some crushed coral and aesthetic gravel. They sift through sand for scraps plus it will help fill cracks between rocks n such to secure them even more.   They will eat plants. So not a great aesthetic addition.     Don't put strong lighting on the tank. The crabs like to hide. Plus they'll grow algae over their carapace under too strong and or long exposure. Glass shrimp will help keep this down.    Aquiring:  Can be bought from a fish market. Sold as live food. About $50 per kilo. A standard mud crab will be about 0.8-1.4kgs. Google how to pic a healthy mudcrab. You want to select the healthiest male you can get (not the biggest). Note. They'll all be male.  Transport in Styrofoam box or esky with a little ice. They'll wrap it in newspaper.   When home. Unpack it (keep the claw string on) then move it into a large container or tank with no water for about an hour as they 'defrost'. Remove the claw holding string as you move into their aquarium. Have a friend around to help with lid for safety reasons.    Feeding:  They are scavengers and eat a wide variety of foods. They will make a big mess when they do, so some glass shrimp, Malaysian trumpet snails and a few tiny fish are beneficial for cleaning up the shower of food particles.   My favourite foods to feed are small whole cooked tiger prawns and marinara mix from the deli. Some white fish cut into pieces then frozen. Repashy with added calcium (powdered egg shells or cuttlefish bones). Make big skeets in flat zip lock bags and freeze. Snap off a piece for feeding.     Can also feed worms, clams, scollops, crab pieces, garden snails, plant matter (like excess Elodea from another tank).  A varied diet is important. But most of all is getting plenty of calcium in their diet. The repashy +calcium or a similar diy mix with agar agar, calcium, seafood and added vegetables is gold.     It might not take to eating well initially. I recommend using long planting tweezers. Carefully. Don't want them to grab the tweezers.   You can train them onto eating by attaching a piece of meat or prawn to some cotton string. Jerk it around infront of him until he goes for it. Might take a few tries. Don't leave large pieces of uneaten food in the tank to spoil. Be very careful putting hands into the tank. They can go from slow to very fast moving in an instant.  Here's my Gaston. 

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  • Posts

    • Perry
      G'day jayc, Many thank for your informative reply. I have looked on eBay and found this Macro Plant Fertilizer.  Would you recommend this if not could you tell me another you would suggest I purchase. Cheers Perry
    • jayc
      Hey Sonny, please don't take my post the wrong way. There was no need to apologise. We all start somewhere and we learn along the way. Sometimes it's a trial and error. I was just trying to share some knowledge with tank cycling so that you didn't need to go through trial and error learning.  Rather than following youtube blindly with 2 water changes a week, you now know exactly when you need to do water changes. Your specific tank might only need one water change a week while cycling. Or if pH drops too low, it might need more than that. But you are now armed with that info.  
    • jayc
      It's a moss of some variety, but it's not easy identifying what type of moss when it's all bunched up like that. Java Moss is the most common, so if I was to guess, that's what it is. Moss will grow any where. You can just drop it onto the bottom of the tank, anchor it to a drift wood or rock, or wedge it between ornaments so it doesn't float around.   Not quite sure what the other plant is. It could be an Amazon Echinodorus Bleheri sword or a Cryptocoryne Wendtii. The one with brown/yellow spots is a very unhealthy specimen due to nutrient deficiency. If you set up the new tank and let it run with no livestock in it, you can treat the plants with lots of light and Macro fertilisers.  The old leaves cannot be saved, but new leaves should be green again. Look for aquarium fertilisers that are labelled Macro or contain Potassium and Phosphate. A fert with Iron and trace elements won't hurt either. An All-In-One fertiliser should have Potassium, Phosphate, Iron and trace elements, so look out for that. Just make sure you change out the water before adding any shrimps in. We don't want to add shrimps into a tank that has too much ferts, as that will have a wildly different water parameter that the shrimps prefer.
    • jayc
      That will be fine, as long as the hose they provide is long enough.
    • jayc
      Yes. The bacteria will be reduced to suit the load of the tank. Likewise it will increase if there is more inhabitants. But this process is not instantaneous of course. That's why you don't add a huge amount of new tank inhabitants in one go.  
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