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    • Elkwatcher
      By Elkwatcher
      I've tried numerous times starting with healthy green moss and ended up with mostly dingy brown green bunches.  It's just floating on it's own, tried lower light, lower temps, ferts not that it needs it as it can get it's nutrients from the fish poop.  I'll stick with Subwassertang and Christmas Moss for the shrimps to graze off of!
       
       
    • TheKeeper
      By TheKeeper
      So I currently have a 6 gallon planted tank that has been set up and running for 3 weeks. Im about to purchase my red cherry shrimp to put in this tank. There is plenty of algae in the tank for them to eat, so food should be fine for the beginning correct? Plus it is heavily planted meaning there is plenty of organic matter to be consumed at all times, so they shouldn't really need to be fed ever? Also i see that drip acclimation is best for getting them used to there new home. If i did this till the tank is half empty for provided them with as close conditions as possible without emptying the tank. Am i good to just refill the tank afterward or from now on when i do water changes do they all need to be dripped in? Also is it true that adding calcium to the tank is beneficial for the shrimp to molt?
      Im a pretty experienced fish keeper, just haven't ever had with shrimp so I dont want to kill all these expensive shrimps due to lack on knowledge. Any more knowledge or advice that can be given to me is high encouraged, even if it seems simple. 
      Some specs of the tank, tanks does have a filter, that has small openings that could suck up baby shrimp. Its a small filter and has algae growth on the openings so it really does reduce the flow a bit, where i dont see it becoming a  huge issue. The tank is co2 injected, but thats pretty nailed down so nuking them with co2 is highly unlikely. The tank has a soil bottom capped with coarse sand. The vast majority of the bottom of the tank is carpeted with plants but they still have a way to go. There is no lid on the top of the tank. The tank does have some natural river stones in it with the brown algae growth on them. And a lot of the plants have the white "bugger" algae growing on them or around them. The tank receives about 10 hours of light a day. I know i put a lot of un-important information here, but maybe a pro will see a problem here and be able to inform me so I can correct it. Thanks for your time and consideration in advance!!!!
      Regards
      -The Keeper
    • TheKeeper
      By TheKeeper
      Ive done alot of research but let me explain my set up for you. I have a 6 gal tank that is approx 12 inch tall. It is a fertilized and currently has a DIY co2 on it, i did this by taking a 2 liter bottle and adding sugar and yeast, it is connected to a special co2 bubble (whatever they are called). The tank also has high lighting and is completely planted carpeted and bigger plants. Im about to be adding in my cherry shrimp and know that gassing them with co2 is possible at night. And im wanting to avoid this of course. Yet i dont want to spend alot of money upgrading my co2 system. The co2 bubblier is only 8-9 inchs from the water line. The majority of the bubbles reach the surface meaning not all the co2 is dissolving or there are other gasses present. Im wondering if I can get away with this co2 delivery system. Or what simple upgrades could be made so that it doesn't run at night? from what i understand it would be at night i would gas the shrimp? Also I do a 50% water change 1 if not 2 times a week. 
       
      Options ive thought of-
      1. Instead of a 2 liter bottle maybe like a 12 oz bottle, scale back the yeast and sugar so there is less co2 being produced
      2. Releasing the pressure in the DIY bubblier before bed. so it would take maybe 4-6 hour for the pressure to build up again and start bubbling 
      3. Upgrading system (Dont want to do this really, but i though of it)
    • Zebra
      By Zebra
      Hello,
      Ive noticed I had some equipment laying around that needed to be put to better use, and after settling in my half a dozen or so new shrimp colonies and other tanks, I figure I'll get to scaling it. 
      Ive cleaned up an old 50cm Long tank and cut a glass brace for this light to sit on, Was a standard 3ft tropical PL compact flouro light, one ballast stopped working ages back so I cut it out and halved the unit,  and the other has powered along for over a year now with a new globe.
      I've Got that light 36w, my 1L Ista co2 bottle just behind it, Aquaone 650 canister filter- which I'm putting a glass skimmer on, a standard glass heater, and drop checker.- That's about it for equipment, I'm contemplating adding a sotching oxydator I bought from newbreed aquatics closing down sale.
      Looking for some nice lava rock as I want to keep the kh quite low in this one, most of my other tanks have had seiryu or something else reactive, and I find plants like anubias and buce grip much better into light pourous stone like lava rock. 
      I've got a fresh bag of Black earth to go in there when I do find the lava rock, till then.


    • Dimos
      By Dimos
      Hi everyone,
      I installed a Co2 system in my shrimp tank (you can see it on the left, although not activate at that time). Plants really grow more after I installed. However, I heard that you shouldn't leave the Co2 running when there is no light, because there is no photosynthesis happening and something toxic from the Co2 might kill the shrimp. So, I heard that you can either turn it off every night (pain, because I have to take out the tubes and turn the bottles around so that Co2 is not passing through), or add an air stone which provides oxygen and is safe when you have Co2 in the dark.
      Do you agree with that? Is it safe to leave Co2 open (though very small amount) overnight, when you have an air stone?
      Thanks,
      Dimos

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    • JarryPatyson
      My parents have an aquarium, so I don't know if this will help, but still want to leave a suggestion. They also liked the idea of installing a light strip in it, so they started looking on amazon. I don't know what went wrong, but it broke on the fifth day of use. I think it was a cheap Chinese thing (although the website told me it was waterproof and durable). They asked me for help finding a better option, and I advised them of the smart LED multi-color light strips I used in my car. Being pretty skeptical, my dad still decided to try them. They have been working fine for a month now and don't even flicker. Mom says the fish are happy, lol. I hope my comment was helpful
    • jayc
      It's not looking good. Quarantine any shrimp showing Necrosis, as it can be infectious. Tell us what your water parameters are, and do a heavy water change after that. Increase surface agitation to get more oxygen into the water. A bit of H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) into the water to increase oxygen might also help the shrimps that have not yet contracted this.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry to see you have a problem. Try reading the section on 'muscular necrosis' in the below section. You will need to scroll down through it until you see the bold red heading of that description (it is quite a large article covering many problems etc, it is about the 5th item on the first page);   I don't have any personal experience of this but do ask any questions as someone may be able to help. A bit more general info may also  help, your setup, number of shrimps, how long you have had the shrimps, any water parameters you may have etc?
    • supershrimpme
      Hello, I was wondering if anyone here had any first-hand information on these particular pictures. It describes exactly what a few of my shrimp have. The second picture is spot on and most accurate. Thanks
    • Crabby
      #4 looks almost like a juvenile female to me, just looking at the abdomen in the top left image, but definitely looks more male in the other two images. The colour suggests it is an adult though, and it’s lacking a clear  so Simon is probably right in thinking it is male, that top left image is just confusing me a bit. If you’re going to get a female, to be sure, make sure it’s got an obvious yellow saddle. That’ll help you know it’s mature as well.
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