Jump to content

Starting up a Shrimp Tank,Need Some Advice


Steensj2004

Recommended Posts

Hello! I’ve been keeping aquariums for years. From Topical Community, Discus, Cichlids, and Reef tanks, I’ve done it all. I had a Red Cherry freshwater tank that I had converted from a Reef setup. It was a 40 lagoon, with a 20L sump( which included a fluidized K1 bed). The shrimp population exploded form a dozen or so to over 100 fairly quickly. I’ve since been tank free for several years, and am looking to get back into the game. I’m looking at this tank and light for a planted shrimp tank. Opinions? Should I go back to a sump/display style setup instead? I’ve also included a picture to show the design I’m looking for. Thanks in advance! 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GX53GZF

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QVHJQD8

 

64C8D5B0-2AB0-4217-A2C1-A70F47287EA0.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a great aquascape in the picture.

I have used one of those built in back tanks before, much, much smaller though! They do make the tank section clear and tidy! I am guessing you are UK based as it says they deliver to UK, unless it is just picking up my computer is in the UK? The slots on the back where the water goes through will probably need adapting to make them shrimp safe as otherwise shrimps will get through to the back? I adapted my small one as well because as it shows in the picture all the stuff is in the bottom of the back and how you are supposed to get that out once it is filled was obviously something they failed to think about when they designed it, this bigger version may be easier though? They do run quietly as well but there is a fair amount of wasted space in the back so if it is a 24 gallon I would expect it is 20 gallon tank and 4 gallon back (wasted) space so that depends whether you think the tidier look is worth the smaller actual tank capacity - size wise it probably doesn't really matter with shrimps. Another consideration is how easy will it be to get to the back sections when it is set up in its placement and obviously you can't see what is happening so if a heater malfunctions it will be hard to tell/see.

As I say, I have had this type before and probably wouldn't recommend it as a type. Now I use black as a background with a black plastic flat heater and a black plastic filter so you can't really see them but they are much easier to get too! With any other background though they would be visable! Here is a link to a picture so you can judge what I mean. Incidently here in UK they do an 80L version of this same tank!

https://skfaquatics.com/forum/gallery/image/849-dsc00485a-editedjpg/?context=new

Anyway, hope this is of some help but ask if you want any more help/clarification etc.

Simon

Edited by sdlTBfanUK
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to come back to this, but if you read the feedback  the quality may be questionable. Also, if there is no top you will get more evaporation.

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, sdlTBfanUK said:

I am guessing you are UK based as it says they deliver to UK, unless it is just picking up my computer is in the UK?

It says Australia for me. So it must be just Amazon picking up on your location.

 

Yeah, filter media maintenance is going to be harder with that design. 

An external filter would be easier. And you can get one that would hold much more media.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, jayc said:

It says Australia for me. So it must be just Amazon picking up on your location.

 

Yeah, filter media maintenance is going to be harder with that design. 

An external filter would be easier. And you can get one that would hold much more media.

We use this style regularly in the micro Saltwater community. Aftermarket media trays make maintainability a breeze, I’m not sure why people think it’s more complicated? To find a HOB that holds more media, would require a LARGE HOB filter. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hear what you are saying and can see that for saltwater tanks which have a much brighter/whiter appearance you don't want to be able to see all the working equipment.

I started with 3 very small (admittedly) versions of this hidden back section type of tank and they do seem to be becoming more popular nowadays and bigger ones are probably better than the smaller ones. The small ones I had suffered mainly from the following,

They had slots in the back where water was drawn through to the working back area and these slots were too large for anything other than fully grown adults to be safe as the others could get drawn through or wander through the slots. If you put sponge behind the slots it solves this problem but it restricts the flow and soon gets blocked with detritus and as the tanks have slots at the top (as well as the bottom usually) they obviously realise this can happen. The ones I had, because of this, meant the water level in the back was always lower than the tank level even on the lowest pump speed setting and this was partly due to the heater being in the back causing evaporation, as the back sections had no cover either. With this 'problem' in a smaller tank it is very risky as the level could drop low enough that it affects the heater (this probably wouldn't happen with bigger versions IF you make sure the heater is as low down as possible in the back). It did mean that I had to keep a careful eye on the level at the back which isn't easy if kept in a recess or piece of furniture that surrounds the tank.

The largest one I had (only 15L admittedly) was actually the worst design, as it had 2 small sponges right in the bottom of the back sections and how the f**k they thought that was a good design still eludes me to this day, years later. After a good hour of trying to get them out as they were so oversized so even turning it over and bashing it (never a good idea with an aquarium, but I was almost at the I'm going to get a hammer stage) wouldn't get them out, there were 2, one normal sponge and one carbon sponge - A definite WTF moment and how you are supposed to do/get that out when the tank has water in it???????. I still have, and use this one as an emergency and I got around the sponge problem by getting a large sheet of sponge and cutting it to fill the whole rear section to the top so I can then get hold of it and it does make maintenance a doddle but probably also doesn't help the flow and level in the back. Again, it is a small tank so the divisions at the back were a lot smaller than a larger one, but even a large one must be tricky to get your arm down the back if the sponge is at the very bottom if you don't have clear access to the back. My heaters have temperature leds on as well but thats a waste of time if you can't even see the heater hidden in the back so you have to be able to keep checking it is working which again can be difficult depending on where the tank is, so if the heater sticks on (and I am probably the wrong person to say this as I recently cooked all my shrimp in an aquarium that didn't have the back sections) you won't be able to see easily?

OK Enough here I think! There are many reasons listed above (and others) that I would and don't use this type of aquarium any more for keeping shrimps. I do not doubt they are really good for bigger inhabitants, and especially saltwater setups where you don't want to see the workings as it is a lighter setup, and as long as you have the tank somewhere where the rear is easily accessible and viewable. It is pretty logical that if the equipment is in the main aquarium it is easier to get at/maintain /see, but the latter may not be a preference to some people I appreciate that, and that is why I started out with the built in back sections. Now the easier access/maintenance is preferable and by using black background with black filter and heater it reduces the equipments  visual impact.

To summarise , would I recommend this type for small shrimp (this is a shrimp first forum after all) is a definite NO (also most shrimp peoples tanks are small in size, unless they are serious breeders), but it doesn't mean it isn't doable and you shouldn't get one if that is what you want and that is my opinion based on my EXPERIENCE from the 3 small tanks I started out with. Most things I have found in life, the theory is way better than the reality!

Hope this answers any queries sufficiently, if not just ask, but be prepared for another mega reply? It is a cold and wet day here is the UK, so typical summer here so I have nothing better to do................

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      Update to say that after a few gravel vacs, front wall scrub, moss / floating plant trim, that the condition seems to have improved.  My current theory is that it is due to waste / debris management, where "stuff" like that brown mulm accumulates in the substrate and behind the HMF filters.  Maybe some tanks can somehow deal with it, but mine can't.  Also another experienced shrimper suggested that maybe those "shell bugs" don't just live on the shrimps but also in this debris.  Maybe this is the reason some tanks fail due to "old tank syndrome" where all they need is a good gravel vac? Also, I am guessing that plant trim helps too because now more of the nutrients and light go into growing algae instead of more plants? Well anyway for this tank I will try weekly water change and monthly gravel vac / plant trim.  For my next tank, I'm thinking of something like an under-gravel system where this mulm can fall down and I vac it out.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Good to have an update and good to hear you are getting shrimplets, so hopefully your colony will continue and you may not get to the point where you have to cull some to stop over population. These type of shrimp only live 12 - 18 months so the adult deaths may be natural? If you have the time I would do weekly 25% water changes, adding the new water via a drip system and do some vacuuming clean of the substrate each week, even if only a different bit each week! See if that helps in a few months and if it does then stick with that regime? It should help reduce any build-ups that may be occuring!
    • beanbag
      Hello again, much belated update: The tank still has "cycles" of 1-2 month "good streaks" where everybody seems to be doing well, and then a bad streak where the short antenna problem shows up again, and a shrimp dies once every few days.  I am not sure what causes things to go bad, but usually over the course of a few days I will start to see more shrimp quietly standing on the HMF filter, and so I know something is wrong.  Since I am not "doing anything" besides the regular 1-2 week water changes, I just assume that something bad is building up.  Here's a list of things that I've tried that are supposed to be "can't hurt" but didn't prevent the problem either: Dose every other day with Shrimp Fit (very small dose, and the shrimp seem to like it) Sotching Oxydator Seachem Purigen to keep the nitrates lower Keeping the pH below 5.5 with peat Things that I don't do often, so could possibly "reset" the tank back to a good streak, are gravel vac and plant trim, so maybe time to try those again. One other problem I used to have was that sometimes a shrimp would suddenly stop eating with a full or partially full digestive tract that doesn't clear out, and then the shrimp will die within a few days.  I suspected it was one of the foods in my rotation - Shrimp Nature Infection, which contains a bunch of herbal plant things.  I've had this in my food rotation for a few years now and generally didn't seem to cause problems, but I removed it from the rotation anyway.  I don't have a lot of adult Golden Bees at this point so I can't really tell if it worked or not. Overall the tank is not too bad - during the good streaks occasionally a shrimp will get berried and hatch babies with a 33-50% survival rate.  So while there are fewer adults now, there are also a bunch of babies roaming around.  I guess this tank will stagger on, but I really do need to take the time to start up a new tank.  (or figure out the problem)
    • jayc
      If that is the offspring, then the parents are unlikely to be PRL. I tend to agree with you. There are very few PRLs in Australia. And any that claim to be needs to show proof. PRL genes have to start as PRL. CRS that breed true after x generations doesn't turn it into a PRL. Neither can a Taiwan bee shrimp turn into a PRL despite how ever many generations. I've never seen a PRL with that sort of red colour. I have on Red Wines and Red Shadows - Taiwan bee shrimps. So somewhere down the line one of your shrimp might have been mixed with Taiwan bees and is no longer PRL. It just tanks one shrimp to mess up the genes of a whole colony. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry, missed this one somehow! The PRL look fantastic and the odd ones look part PRL and part Red wine/Red shadow in the colour. They are still very beautiful but ideally should be seperated to help keep the PRL clean if you can do that.  Nice clear photos!
×
×
  • Create New...