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    • Aquahobby
      By Aquahobby
      Hey guyz, im cycling a 30l tank to get some rcs in it. The tank is almost cycled and im thinking of getting them next week. 
      I have tested the water and the kH is at 9 and ph is 7 (i have yet to buy a gh test as i bought the jbl pack and didnt realise it does not include gh). I have read about parameter for neo carodina and they say that the hardier the water the better. But i have also read that the water can be too hard which will make it hard for them to molt.
      What would you recommend for the parameters ? And how much should i start as a basic colony? 
       
    • SquaniceandSquilliam
      By SquaniceandSquilliam
      Hi I'm an animal enthusiast with many frogs snakes and arachnids but it's my first attempt at caring for cherry shrimp..i researched with my girlfriend quite a bit and already set up a planted tank in a nano 2.6gallon aquarium. It will be cycling and until then I just wanted some feedback on how it looks and what y'all think about it? Thankyou ~ 

    • travellife
      By travellife
      3 nights ago I moved 15 shrimp from a planted 1 gallon jarrarium to a 4 gallon bent glass tank.  The tank has a small PennPlax HOB which was seeded and has been up and running for about 1 month prior to transferring the shrimp.  The jarrarium in which they were born only had Aquasolum substrate, Anubias, and a bunch of java moss.  In the new tank I used black sand for the substrate and added a nice piece of Malaysian Driftwood along with java moss from the jarrarium.  When I first put them in the tank (after drip acclimating for 1-1/2 hours) they were swimming all over checking things out, acting pretty ecstatic about their new home.  This morning their behavior has become very subdued and most of the time I don't even see them (the driftwood has many openings for them to hide in).  A few have already molted.   All water parameters between the 2 tanks were the same with the exception of nitrate and GH/KH levels.  The jarrarium always had 0 nitrates, the new tank has 10ppm.  The jarrarium GH/KH were both 4, the new tank reads 5 for both the GH/KH.  I'm keeping a close eye on them but don't see any signs of stress.  Most are hiding in the driftwood, the others are resting very still in place. 
      How long does it generally take for shrimp to acclimate to new surroundings?  They are neocaridina davidi var. orange that were born in the jarrarium so this new environment is a huge change for them.  They've gone from a vertical water column to a horizontal water column that offers major hiding capabilities.  It was nice to be able to view them when they were actively swimming, now they've gone incognito on me.
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    • Zebra
      By Zebra
      Hello,
      So I thought I'd do a quick write up on how to "quick cycle" a new tank.
      Please note:
      This is generally for emergency use and I'm not recommending people just do this as a standard procedure every time, when intending to buy livestock make sure the tank they are to be housed in is fully cycle before you make your purchase.
       -Its best to always let your tanks cycle and mature naturally before adding livestock and this is especially true for shrimp.
       
      Many of these steps are aimed at introducing BB (Beneficial Bacteria) Aswell as reducing Nh3 (Ammonia) No2 (Nitrite)  No3 (Nitrate) and heavy metals.
       
      1) If it's a sand or gravel then grab as much established substrate from an existing tank as you can, obviously without taking too much,- you don't want to set off a cycle in the original tank! :)
      2) The sponge filters I use have 2 sides so it's possible to take off one sponge from an established tank and replace it with the new sponge without upsetting the BB too much, Then use this cycled sponge in your new tank. Or if you can pinch some cycled filter media like bio balls, ceramic rings etc,- If you absolutely can't take these from your existing tanks then just squeeze all the "mulm" from the dirty sponges into your new tank.
      3) This step IMO is not really as beneficial as the others as only very small amounts of BB actually live in the water itself, but I'll add it.         Use as much aquarium water from an existing tank as you can.
      4) Get some Seachem stability or similar product, I think aquaone make one called "Bio". You can't really overdose this stuff, but having said that I wouldn't recommend wasting it.-There is dormant BB in this product that activates when introduced to Nh3 etc. I guess if your test kit reads any level of Nh3 you could dose again.
      5) Whether you use tap or RO, Get a decent water dechlorinator that specifically states "Reduces Ammonia, nitrite and heavy metals" You can dose this at the recommended dose daily (not to dechlorinate) to reduce all the nasties.
      6) Add plants and driftwood preferably from an established tank if you can, as lots of BB will hitch a ride over on the wood etc, and plants will eat up Nh3, No3 aswell as heavy metals.- I'd go with low light, low maintenance like ferns and moss etc.
      7) Grab some Indian almond leaf, This does many things but mostly what we want it for is to slightly lower the ph converting toxic Nh3 into a less toxic substance Nh4 (Ammonium). Also the medicinal properties of the cappata leaf will heap reduce stress when livestock are introduced into their new environment.
      8) Small daily water changes like 10-20% and try to remove as much organic matter as you go.
      9) Add some mineral balls, They absorb Nh3 and release important minerals into the water that aid in shimp moulting and stabilising ph.
       
      Dont clean the filter for atleast the first 3-4 weeks- obviously unless it's full blocked.
      If you do all this as directed your tank should be safe for livestock even shrimp in about the time it takes for the water to settle and clear, however accurate testing should be performed before introducing livestock, if you have  a few days to do this it would be even better.
      Once again people shouldn't go out buying shrimp and a new tank in one go at the lfs, Nor should they rely on methods like this to instantly setup a new tank every time they buy stuff.
      Cycling a tank naturally over time is a safer, better way to go, and lots of these tips can still be used to help speed up this process aswell.
      These tips can even just be used for reducing Nh3 etc in a problem tank.
      Quick product review:
      The API test kits are fine for general use despite their apparent bad rap, you just have to shake the heck out of them as per the instructions. Although with the No3 test, its really hard to tell a difference between like 10ppm, 20ppm and 40ppm, they are all pretty much the same shade of orange- yet the kit goes right to 160? Lol why? like if it's over 40 you know there major issues, they should have instead focused on a more accurate low range, eh just my 2c.
      Hope this helps some people :)
      peace.
       
       
       



    • Zebra
      By Zebra
      Hey everyone how's things?
      So I was on and off with shrimp the last 6 months or so while I was doing other things and getting into nano softwater fish, building tanks and saving money, now I've got a bit more free time again I just bought a ton of new tanks, equipment and shrimp in the last few months, it's all coming together now.
      This is what my lounge room/fish room looks like ATM lol


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    • Crabclaw
      Thanks for the advice guys, I really appreciate it! As for the details, the tank is my 110L community, and while none of my fish are especially expensive or special, but I don’t want to lose any or have to rescape. The reason I was hoping to avoid qt is bc I don’t have a spare tank or filter atm. I think I will qt I think. How long should I do it for, and do I need to cycle the tank very long?
    • beanbag
      Hello folks, This is in regards to my TB tank that has had shrimp for about 2 months now.  The shrimp came in two batches from different vendors - one was two BKK and the other was a bunch of RWP and BB.  Everything was going well for about 2 months with the shrimps actively grazing around and suddenly I found one of the BKK dead and upright in a corner of the tank.  I usually do a check-up on the shrimp every day and the only time the shrimp are inert is one day before and after a molt.  In the past when I had shrimp die for various reasons they would be inert for a few days prior. The water parameters are the same as usual: Amm/NO2/NO3 = 0, ph = 6.0 or a little lower, GH 5, TDS 110 Using RO + SS GH+ and I did a 15% water change 2 days ago, dripping in the new water. I haven't fed any pellet shrimp food for a while because there are still lots of patches of algae in the tank, plus one IAL, plus they finished off a mulberry leaf 2 days ago. Nothing looks odd on the dead body of this shrimp (no real color loss) except the clear parts like antennae and tip of tail are a little orange.  (I think this is typical of shrimp that have died?  Or a molt shell once you remove it from the water and expose it to air.) The only odd things about this shrimp are that in the 2 months, it molted a few times but never grew much (or at all) over the original 1/2" size.  About a month ago, the white parts of it started turning blue.  The other BKK that came at the same time also either hasn't grown at all or maybe just a tiny bit, and only has little patches of blue.  The other batch of shrimp from a different breeder (RWP and BB) have grown significantly over this time. Anyway, the rest of the shrimp seem to still be doing well and actively grazing.  (Actually, two are acting quiet, but it is still within the pre-molt time frame) I hope it's not bacterial infection, but what can I do to prevent / prepare?  I have available: Dr Tim's Eco balance, Doxycycline (fish med), oregano oil, melafix, H2O2.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I agree with JayC and have N|EVER quarantined personally, but there is also something a little more to consider. My setups are small and simple/basic and don't have many fish  - all about 30L max! If you have spent a lot of time and money setting up a beautiful tank, cycling it etc and then you introduce fish with some sort of disease or parasite you will need to TREAT the tank or may even have to re-setup the tank, if you put those sick fish in it so not only will you lose the fish you may have wasted a lot of time and money, and may have to completely start again from scratch, and never be 100% confident it/they won't recur. You may have to cycle etc again, buy new stuff depending on what the treatment was etc? I would say if you have a small bare bottom tank with a spare filter WHY not quarantine for the peace of mind? I am aware of course that I  am being hypocritical in saying this..............................so just a thought! Simon
    • jayc
      If they are the first inhabitants in a tank, then not needed. Beyond that, it's difficult to answer as it is a personal choice. we never value the quarantine process, until we REALLY need it, by the time we find out, it's too late. And we always wish we had quarantined. If it was me, my thought process goes like this ... i ask myself, do I already have inhabitants in the tank that are so rare and precious that I absolutely CANNOT loose due to disease? If the answer is Yes, than I quarantine any new tank inhabitants - fish or plants.
    • Crabclaw
      Hey all. So, I'm getting some cory cats in the near future, and I want to know if I need to quarantine them. I know a guy at my lfs really well, and I trust the store, so I might be able to get them to hold and quarantine them for me for a week. I'd prefer to just add them straight to the tank if it's possible though. If not, then I can sort a qt tank soon. Thanks in advance
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