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sdlTBfanUK

RESET TANK, D'oh!

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sdlTBfanUK

I think it is time I start thinking about resetting my tank and ordering supplies. My taiwan bee tank is up to PH7.5 (I need to check this though with a NEWER test kit first to check the kit is working correctly) and has been creeping up over time. There are no obvious signs of a problem with the shrimps whatsoever (incidentally I had half hoped that it may slow down the breeding but it appears that was not the case, dammit), so I am not rushing into doing this but as summer seems to be arriving I feel less reluctant to faff about with buckets of water than I have until now! The tank has been running on JBL Proscape shrimp soil but only the one bag of 3L which is about 3//4 inch and clearly that may be why it hasn't lasted as long as I thought it would so I  am planning on using 2 x 3L bags this time which should be about 1.5 inches, Is that enough? I only used 1 bag before as I have to admit I don't particularly like looking at inches of dead space at the bottom of a tank when it has a clear glass front so you can see the substrate. I did have a geode in the tank as decoration but that has  been removed now, but that may have affected the PH etc. It has 30L of water in the tank. The water that goes into the tank is Ph 5.5 so I'm not sure why the Ph has risen tp 7.5 other than the geode maybe?????

My questions are,

1) Is 1.5 inches (6L) of substrate sufficient for 30L tank?

2) Will having more substrate than before extend the time before the tank needs to be reset again or will it not affect the length of time the soil works/buffers?

3) Do I even need to change the soil and reset the tank as everything seems to be fine otherwise?

Allowing 1 week for getting the stuff and then the 2 weeks prepping the soil in the bathroom it will be a month probably before I actually do the mammoth task of changing everything around.

Simon~
 

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jayc
2 hours ago, sdlTBfanUK said:

1) Is 1.5 inches (6L) of substrate sufficient for 30L tank?

It depends on what substrate you are replacing with. A good brand like ADA Amazonia will only need 1.5 - 2 L.

 

2 hours ago, sdlTBfanUK said:

2) Will having more substrate than before extend the time before the tank needs to be reset again or will it not affect the length of time the soil works/buffers?

It might extend the length of time, but it will affect the pH for sure. Too much and your pH will drop below the ideal 6 - 6.5.

 

2 hours ago, sdlTBfanUK said:

3) Do I even need to change the soil and reset the tank as everything seems to be fine otherwise?

I wouldn't reset it if everything is fine. You can try other methods of dropping pH like more dried leaves and driftwood.

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sdlTBfanUK

Thanks JayC, I may order the stuff so it is here so that I can do it without delay IF/WHEN something goes wrong or is obviously not right.

The Soil is JBL ProScape shrimp soil and it was set up a year ago, forgot that point! Also the tank PH was 5.5 for the first months so as you say maybe I used too much, however the new betta tank is smaller and I used a 3L bag and actually it turns out the deeper substrate look is growing on me??

Thanks again JayC, I will heed your advice, all the other parameters are perfect and there is zero problems with the shrimp (as far as I can see anyway) so I will probably just buy spare soil in preparation and store that (unopened) somewhere in a dark cool cupboard so I have it for I|F/WHEN necessary!

Bertie the betta also doing really well, active and curious thanks to your advice from the start of that project.

Simon

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beanbag

Check if the GH or KH are slowly rising.  The Salty Shrimp GH+ is very mildly buffering and should have a pH of about 6.6 when mixed with RO water.

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sdlTBfanUK

All the other parameters are stable and perfect, and the newly filtered remineralised water that goes into the tank when doing a water change is Ph5.5.

I use the dennerle mineral double in place of salty shrimp as it is easier to use being a liquid!

I do 10% water changes each week.

It is a bit baffling to me but as there is no obvious problems at this point I am not too worried but will probably get some new substrate ready, just in case. The substrate that is in the tank is a year old and as mentioned the only other unknown that may have caused the problem was I had 3 geodes in the tank, which are a type of rock?

Simon

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beanbag

acid test them or leave it in a glass of remineralized water and check its pH again after a few days.

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sdlTBfanUK

Thanks for that, I think I will try that just so that I know, though I don't think they will be going back into the tank now.

Will be good to know though whether they were the reason.

Simon

edit 1hr later - I have done this, and also put some of the water in a cup to test the water itself, will leave both a week and report back. Ph was 5.5 , TDS 148 when set up

Edited by sdlTBfanUK
update

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jayc

Geodes, if it's what I'm thinking of image.jpeg.49f11538aa790d5d452010e1a0a7737d.jpeg

Will dissolve in a tank and impact water parameters. but if you have removed it, than you should start to get back to water parameters that are more to the expected values.

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sdlTBfanUK

Thanks JayC, I think it is called a Geode, that was what it was sold as when I bought it in US many years ago though it could be something else? I think it is some sort of meteorite?

IMG_20190520_085129.thumb.jpg.8e7b9b6baa2460d70ed69ab311d2e36a.jpgIMG_20190520_085200.thumb.jpg.2f1b5d767ec3cb31478d6c49cb154702.jpg

Hopefully, as you say, now it is removed the PH may start to drop and I have put one in some prepared water to test in a week. I will also just see what happens with prepared water left out for the same period just to see what happens with that.

Simon

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beanbag

Another thing you can do to avoid rescaping:

Just take some of the fresh soil and put it in your filter.

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  • Posts

    • jayc
      It sounds about right for GH6 (6 drops is roughly 120 TDS). Those GH test kits are not the most accurate. And RO water reading of 3 is not unreasonable. I don't know why you would have been reading 240TDS last week and now it's a 100 points lower. I would suggest, not changing water parameter with a water change for a week, then see where it is at. Change if it gets close to 200 (say around 180-190). Let's give the tank some stability by not changing anything for a while.
    • supermansteve32
      I checked my TDS meter and it reads 3 on RO water and today my TDS in my tank is 133. I did a test with API and it took 6 drops so that's around 100 TDS.  I had 2 adolescents die overnight.  Should I only change water when it's over 200 TDS or should i continue with the 10% every week?  Thanks
    • supermansteve32
      I'll check it when I get off work tonight. I'll check my reader against pure RO water & tap, and do a GH test.  I'll also clean my TDS meter.  Thanks for your help everyone. 
    • beanbag
      If u have a GH test kit, then u can do a cross check, where each GH value in RO water made with SS equals about 20 ppm, e.g. GH 6 water will give you about 120 ppm.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Are you sure the new reading is correct as that sounds unlikely, and I would have thought you would have had shrimps dying  with that sort of decrease. Do you have a second way of checking the TDS, or can you take a sample to a fish shop for them to test? I can't think of any reason that would happen or even heard of that before? Even if you had put pure RO water in last water change it wouldn't have dropped that far! If it is currently the TDS113 it will make adjusting easy as you just mix the water to the desired end TDS figure (140ish) and it will slowly go up to that. Simon
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