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richiep

Crystal reds/black bee not breeding

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richiep

heres the food i use along with regular bloodworm and all sorts of veg1136995379_shrimpfood2.jpg.5a347d92b60abfc8066d92c7b5eff07f.jpg

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sdlTBfanUK

Are you saying then that the red crystals (or any other Caridina shrimp) have bred in the 220L before ok? If so then it probably can't be the 'winter' process I guess. I would probably still set up the smaller tank for selective breeding and try the 'winter' on the bigger tank I think, relating to the original problem.

My 35L tank hovers around 100-120 shrimps, if I cull some, more come along and it stays at that level so I assume my maximum figure is that, thats fine with me as thats plenty enough! If it is down to maximum occupancy then I guess you need to cull the weakest coloured ones to get more good colour ones?

The slight TDS increase may be due to evaporation. When topping up you should use pure RO water, no mineralisers. Other option is to just adjust when you do the water change, which is what I believe you do now.

Simon

5 minutes ago, richiep said:

heres the food i use along with regular bloodworm and all sorts of veg1136995379_shrimpfood2.jpg.5a347d92b60abfc8066d92c7b5eff07f.jpg

OMG! I hope you eat as well as your shrimps do?

Simon

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jayc
4 hours ago, Kingo said:

what do you mean by properly?

 

2 hours ago, richiep said:

when you say reminerilise properly says to me I'm doing it wrong which I dont understand

I mean ... remineralise to a suitable TDS, GH, KH level for the type of shrimp you keep in the tank. 

I'm not saying you are doing it wrong.

 

2 hours ago, richiep said:

so how dose anyone know what the correct minerials are and whats lost

That's why I suggested changing most of the water. We don't know what is missing. So safer to just reset it.

 

 

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richiep
1 hour ago, jayc said:

 

I mean ... remineralise to a suitable TDS, GH, KH level for the type of shrimp you keep in the tank. 

I'm not saying you are doing it wrong.

 

That's why I suggested changing most of the water. We don't know what is missing. So safer to just reset it.

 

 

ok jayc that's my crystal tank we are talking about, perameters are ph 6.6 gh5  kh1 tds 96 temp 23c are you saying this is wrong for that shrimp? the othe photo i posted was of black bee taken from the same tank a few months ago with water,plants,filter from my crystal tank, their perameters stand at ph6.5 kh1 tds 119 temp22.5c they are breeding like rabbits and this it what i dont understand at all . what do you suggest the perameters should be

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sdlTBfanUK

The TDS if it is 96 may well be the problem, the usual range is about 120-180? Mine is around 160! If the blacks at 119 are breeding then maybe try increasing the tds to at least that, but gradually over several days to a week?

Simon

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richiep

i think 119 is due to the tank size. when mixing gh+ to ro water for me to get a gh of 5 my tds is 96 in my cherry tank a ro water mix for a gh of8 results in a tds of 200, explain how to get a gh of 5 in ro water and tds between 120 180,

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jayc

As sdlTBfanUK mentioned, try bringing TDS & GH up a bit. GH 6 and TDS 120-130, or around that. Your tank might be low on calcium. 

Edited by jayc
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sdlTBfanUK

In purely mathematic terms if TDS200 is GH8, and that sounds correct, if you divide 200 by 8 you get TDS 25 per 1GH, again, about right with how mine calculates/runs. 5 (GH) times 25 (TDS) is TDS125 so would be perfect. Try remineralising just using the TDS figure, it will be much easier anyway, and the remineralisers are balanced for GH&TDS that the shrimp need . As JayC says you can try GH6 and that will be fine, mathematically that should come out at TDS150 - those are the figures at which my tank runs (checked yesterday and TDS158, GH6)!

Simon

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beanbag

Can I ask again, what are the water parameters of:

a) tank where shrimp breed

b) tank where shrimp don't breed

c) freshly remineralized RO water

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  • Posts

    • jayc
      It sounds about right for GH6 (6 drops is roughly 120 TDS). Those GH test kits are not the most accurate. And RO water reading of 3 is not unreasonable. I don't know why you would have been reading 240TDS last week and now it's a 100 points lower. I would suggest, not changing water parameter with a water change for a week, then see where it is at. Change if it gets close to 200 (say around 180-190). Let's give the tank some stability by not changing anything for a while.
    • supermansteve32
      I checked my TDS meter and it reads 3 on RO water and today my TDS in my tank is 133. I did a test with API and it took 6 drops so that's around 100 TDS.  I had 2 adolescents die overnight.  Should I only change water when it's over 200 TDS or should i continue with the 10% every week?  Thanks
    • supermansteve32
      I'll check it when I get off work tonight. I'll check my reader against pure RO water & tap, and do a GH test.  I'll also clean my TDS meter.  Thanks for your help everyone. 
    • beanbag
      If u have a GH test kit, then u can do a cross check, where each GH value in RO water made with SS equals about 20 ppm, e.g. GH 6 water will give you about 120 ppm.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Are you sure the new reading is correct as that sounds unlikely, and I would have thought you would have had shrimps dying  with that sort of decrease. Do you have a second way of checking the TDS, or can you take a sample to a fish shop for them to test? I can't think of any reason that would happen or even heard of that before? Even if you had put pure RO water in last water change it wouldn't have dropped that far! If it is currently the TDS113 it will make adjusting easy as you just mix the water to the desired end TDS figure (140ish) and it will slowly go up to that. Simon
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