Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Aquahobby

Hey guyz, im cycling a 30l tank to get some rcs in it. The tank is almost cycled and im thinking of getting them next week. 

I have tested the water and the kH is at 9 and ph is 7 (i have yet to buy a gh test as i bought the jbl pack and didnt realise it does not include gh). I have read about parameter for neo carodina and they say that the hardier the water the better. But i have also read that the water can be too hard which will make it hard for them to molt.

What would you recommend for the parameters ? And how much should i start as a basic colony? 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
On 2/26/2019 at 6:51 AM, Aquahobby said:

I have tested the water and the kH is at 9 and ph is 7

KH 9 and pH7 is an unusual combination. KH at 9 should mean that pH should be higher than 7.0. Something is not right.

Please retest KH.

 

Ideally, you would aim for KH 4-6 for RCS, and pH 7.

Edited by jayc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Aquahobby

I tested the water again today, kh wast at 8 and the ph is 7/7.5 what I'm worried is in an earlier thread i saw these water parameters 

Neocaridina (All colour variants of Cherry Shrimp)

PH - 6.4

KH - 0-2

GH - 4-6

TDS - 100-200

Temp - 21-23

 

Are these parameters correct for neocarodina? As the kh gh are usually recommended to be higher no?

Edited by Aquahobby

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
42 minutes ago, Aquahobby said:

Neocaridina (All colour variants of Cherry Shrimp)

PH - 6.4

KH - 0-2

GH - 4-6

TDS - 100-200

Temp - 21-23

The parameters for Neo Caridina can be higher. The following is the range I would safely recommend them to be in ...

PH - 6.5 - 7.0

KH - 4-6

GH - 6-7

TDS - 200-250

Temp - 21-23

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Aquahobby
On 2/26/2019 at 6:19 AM, jayc said:

KH 9 and pH7 is an unusual combination. KH at 9 should mean that pH should be higher than 7.0. Something is not right.

Please retest KH.

 

Ideally, you would aim for KH 6-7 for RCS, and pH 7.

Thank you for your help 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sdlTBfanUK
12 hours ago, Aquahobby said:

I tested the water again today, kh wast at 8 and the ph is 7/7.5 what I'm worried is in an earlier thread i saw these water parameters 

Neocaridina (All colour variants of Cherry Shrimp)

PH - 6.4

KH - 0-2

GH - 4-6

TDS - 100-200

Temp - 21-23

 

Are these parameters correct for neocarodina? As the kh gh are usually recommended to be higher no?

Those look more like Caridina parameters to me. JayC are better figures to go by!

Simon

Edited by sdlTBfanUK
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Zoidburg

KH of 9 should be fine, although if pH really is low, I must wonder what's lowering it.


GH is more important with Neos. I've heard of Neos being kept in water with a GH between 3 and 24(?) but around 7-8 is considered ideal.

 

If you can find someone keeping Neos in similar water parameters as you, that works out best. If not, it doesn't hurt to try and match their parameters so you'll have the best chance of success. Also recommended to get juvies, not adults.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • sdlTBfanUK
      By sdlTBfanUK
      I am considering getting a betta, either for the existing fish tank, or I have a 15L which I could set up. Could someone please let me have preferred water parameters, ie GH, KH, PH, TDS ranges. I have been looking on the internet (other than this site) and getting well p*ssed off with reading loads of 'waffle' only to find it doesn't even give these basic details, so please, just the asked info, no explanations necessary at this early point! 
      I plan to put the fish in my long term tank, which uses (dechlorinated) tapwater, or an old 15L which is in the cupboard, but that will probably have the same water parameters as I will run it the same. Actually, sitting here looking at the 'Fish tank', probably too much water movement in there (I have never had a Betta in that tank).
      I have tried Betta in the past (years ago) but not had much luck and they rarely lived more than 6 months, devastating as they have more character than most other fish, and as they are supposed to be easy to keep, I really don't know why this is? Anyway, start with what the parameters should be, that may stop me going any further?????
      Regards
      Simon
    • SquaniceandSquilliam
      By SquaniceandSquilliam
      Hi I'm an animal enthusiast with many frogs snakes and arachnids but it's my first attempt at caring for cherry shrimp..i researched with my girlfriend quite a bit and already set up a planted tank in a nano 2.6gallon aquarium. It will be cycling and until then I just wanted some feedback on how it looks and what y'all think about it? Thankyou ~ 

    • Zebra
      By Zebra
      Hey everyone how's things?
      So I was on and off with shrimp the last 6 months or so while I was doing other things and getting into nano softwater fish, building tanks and saving money, now I've got a bit more free time again I just bought a ton of new tanks, equipment and shrimp in the last few months, it's all coming together now.
      This is what my lounge room/fish room looks like ATM lol


    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      If you are setting up a new aquarium, here is a short primer on how to set up your aquarium properly and efficiently. It may seem daunting at first, but assembling your new aquarium is easier than you think.
      Get all the aquarium materials ready
      First get all the aquarium materials ready by washing them thoroughly with warm water. Don’t use commercial soaps and detergents as they are toxic to fish. Stick to the most common and the simplest aquarium ornaments. Sift the gravel over a bucket and drain, repeating the process until you are sure that the gravel is debris-free.
      Fill your tank with water and set up equipment
      The next step in the process is to fill your tank with water. Initially fill around 30% of the tank using room temperature water. You can add the rest of the water right after the internals such as airline tubing, live or plastic plants and other ornaments are added. The air tube is an essential part of the aquarium as it helps with the oxygenation of the water. Plants are generally added to hide equipment, help with the aqua scape or simply aid in the tanks biological ecosystem. The air pump, power filter, and heater are other types of equipment that should be added.
      De-chlorinate
      You need to treat the water in the aquarium to remove chlorine, which is harmful to your biological filter and could be lethal to your fish. It is important not to overdose on de-chlorinators, as they can have an impact on water chemistry.
      Cycle your aquarium
      When an aquarium is cycled, it means that you cultivate or grow a bacteria bed in your tank, specifically in the biological filters. The filters will grow bacteria that digest ammonia which converts to nitrite, which is naturally produced and lethal to fish, shrimp, and coral. Controlling these lethal elements is done by introducing healthy nitrifying bacteria into the aquarium.
      Before you add fish or shrimp, an aquarium must be cycled properly. This is called the fishless cycle. If you place all your fish or shrimp inside the aquarium without the cycling process, chances are they will probably die within a few days.
      Cycling your aquarium takes time and it’s important not to rush it. In some cases, it has taken 6 – 8 weeks to properly cycle a tank.
      Adding the inhabitants
      Before adding your livestock, it is imperative to test the water. Specifically, the levels of ammonia and nitrite. You need to make sure that these two toxic nitrogen compounds are non-existent in the tank. Wait for two months before cleaning your new filter to allow significant growth of good nitrifying bacteria to populate.
      Acclimatise the livestock
      Acclimatising your livestock is a very important procedure because it helps your newly-acquired fish or shrimp adjust to their new habitat. Even a minor relocation can affect them because of changes in water parameters.
      Setting up a new aquarium takes a lot of planning and patience. Just follow the basic guidelines and the recommendations in this primer, and you will find that owning an aquarium is fulfilling and enjoyable.

      View full article
    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      If you are setting up a new aquarium, here is a short primer on how to set up your aquarium properly and efficiently. It may seem daunting at first, but assembling your new aquarium is easier than you think.
      Get all the aquarium materials ready
      First get all the aquarium materials ready by washing them thoroughly with warm water. Don’t use commercial soaps and detergents as they are toxic to fish. Stick to the most common and the simplest aquarium ornaments. Sift the gravel over a bucket and drain, repeating the process until you are sure that the gravel is debris-free.
      Fill your tank with water and set up equipment
      The next step in the process is to fill your tank with water. Initially fill around 30% of the tank using room temperature water. You can add the rest of the water right after the internals such as airline tubing, live or plastic plants and other ornaments are added. The air tube is an essential part of the aquarium as it helps with the oxygenation of the water. Plants are generally added to hide equipment, help with the aqua scape or simply aid in the tanks biological ecosystem. The air pump, power filter, and heater are other types of equipment that should be added.
      De-chlorinate
      You need to treat the water in the aquarium to remove chlorine, which is harmful to your biological filter and could be lethal to your fish. It is important not to overdose on de-chlorinators, as they can have an impact on water chemistry.
      Cycle your aquarium
      When an aquarium is cycled, it means that you cultivate or grow a bacteria bed in your tank, specifically in the biological filters. The filters will grow bacteria that digest ammonia which converts to nitrite, which is naturally produced and lethal to fish, shrimp, and coral. Controlling these lethal elements is done by introducing healthy nitrifying bacteria into the aquarium.
      Before you add fish or shrimp, an aquarium must be cycled properly. This is called the fishless cycle. If you place all your fish or shrimp inside the aquarium without the cycling process, chances are they will probably die within a few days.
      Cycling your aquarium takes time and it’s important not to rush it. In some cases, it has taken 6 – 8 weeks to properly cycle a tank.
      Adding the inhabitants
      Before adding your livestock, it is imperative to test the water. Specifically, the levels of ammonia and nitrite. You need to make sure that these two toxic nitrogen compounds are non-existent in the tank. Wait for two months before cleaning your new filter to allow significant growth of good nitrifying bacteria to populate.
      Acclimatise the livestock
      Acclimatising your livestock is a very important procedure because it helps your newly-acquired fish or shrimp adjust to their new habitat. Even a minor relocation can affect them because of changes in water parameters.
      Setting up a new aquarium takes a lot of planning and patience. Just follow the basic guidelines and the recommendations in this primer, and you will find that owning an aquarium is fulfilling and enjoyable.


  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • jayc
      I was talking about letting pure RO water sit around for too long unused.  Try not to do it.
      RO water that has been remineralised is different. 
    • jayc
      Oops did I mix them around?   <edit> - I did mix the names around. Fix it now in my post above.
    • DKC
      Ok then. Will add more plants to try and reduce nitrates.  Thanks Simon and JayC for the pointers and hints. I think the Dino Spit is the Glutaraldehyde and the Dino Pee has the macro and micronutrients. I will leave off the Glutaraldehyde and reduce the dose of the Pee to one third. I am pretty careful with the dosing.  Good news is that there are at least two RCS females still in the tank and looking well. Maybe they went and hid and moulded after the big water change? The surviving  DAE are all looking well.  Anyway will take all your advice on board and do smaller water changes and work out a dripper system.
    • ShrimpNewb
    • beanbag
      jayc's comments on letting remineralized water sit around got me thinking.  I've had pre-mixed up batches of water sitting around for a month or more with no obvious growth.  I asked the Salty Shrimp people about this, but unfortunately they replied back to me in German, and google translate doesn't seem to work too well.  So if anybody knows German, here is their reply: " prinzipiell ist es kein Problem dein mit Bee Shrimp GH+ aufgesalzenes
      Osmosewasser zu lagern, jedoch werden dabei einige Spurenelemente
      verloren gehen. Dies hat sich bei unds allerdings noch nicht als negativ
      herausgestellt, da wir selbst meist eine Menge von ca. 1000l aufgesalzen
      parat haben. "    
×