Jump to content

Killifish Advice an Live Food


Anto26
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi,

 

I am thinking about getting a pair of Killifish. I have done a lot of research so I know the water perams and stuff like that.

 

I have 2 main questions:

 

I want to raise live food for them. What's the easiest live food for me to raise for them?

 

And do you have any insider tips on being successful with Killifish.

 

 

Thanks so much,

Anthony

 

Sent from my ANE-LX3 using Shrimp Keepers Forum mobile app

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Anto26 said:

What's the easiest live food for me to raise for them?

Vinegar eels or Microworms for the first 2 weeks. 

Then follow this up with newly hatched baby brine shrimps after the first 2 weeks. I'll add microworms or vinegar eels occasionally between baby brine shrimps if I feel lazy harvesting them. 

Microworms are easiest to feel but can be messy. 

Microworms last the longest, with just the occasional top up of apple cider vinegar.

Baby Brine shrimps are the most nutritious of the 3 but can be cumbersome hatching.

What killies are you getting? Some of them are super easy. Just feed them lots of live or frozen foods. Let them breed and collect the eggs. The eggs can be hatched in a separate tank without incubation for some of these easier breeds.

But some killies, you really need to collect in peat moss and observe the incubation period. 

Edited by jayc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love killies but don't actually have any experience with them. I am hoping to get a Betta soon so have been looking into 'LIVE' food a lot. I have nano fish anyway and they will enjoy the live food.

I am going to try daphnia as there are some in a lake here so I can get someone to get me some. As far as I have seen on youtube videos the only thing I will need to get is some yeast so IF it works that should be EASY!

I have also ordered a grindal worms kit. You don't need a kit if you again watch youtube videos, just some peat/soil and a small amount of dog kibble so again IF it works that is also EASY!

These are the only 2 I have come across that I CONSIDER EASY, so will give them ago as they need virtually no special equipment other than stuff most people already have in the house. Here are a couple of the many I watched but you can do your own search for more videos if you want more. I won't be doing either on the scale of the videos though, 2L container for daphnia and whatever comes with the grindal worm kit. You don't need to buy a kit but between being lazy and housebound that is why I am getting a kit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dHJigrdzV8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVGEZX7BTPM

As stated, not tried these yet but I will follow this thread with interest to see if there are any other EASY live foods. I can also get friends to get mosquito larvae from the lake but I am not breeding them indoors for obvious reasons, although fish love them, the riggle movement?

Hope some of this helps with the 'EASIEST' question?

Simon

 

Edited by sdlTBfanUK
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Vinegar eels or Microworms for the first 2 weeks. 
Then follow this up with newly hatched baby brine shrimps after the first 2 weeks. I'll add microworms or vinegar eels occasionally between baby brine shrimps if I feel lazy harvesting them. 
Microworms are easiest to feel but can be messy. 
Microworms last the longest, with just the occasional top up of apple cider vinegar.
Baby Brine shrimps are the most nutritious of the 3 but can be cumbersome hatching.
What killies are you getting? Some of them are super easy. Just feed them lots of live or frozen foods. Let them breed and collect the eggs. The eggs can be hatched in a separate tank without incubation for some of these easier breeds.
But some killies, you really need to collect in peat moss and observe the incubation period. 
What would be better. Grindal worms or white worms?

Sent from my ANE-LX3 using Shrimp Keepers Forum mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Of the two choices,  I'd  say grindal worms would be better, but they are very similar.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      I don't know if bacteria is the cause.  It seems to be an uncommonly diagnosed problem because most shrimp articles only talk about bacteria infection as "a few shrimp die every day / week"  What can I say, a standard dose of minocycline and erythromycin didn't work to stop it, so not sure if oxytetracycline will work.
    • jayc
      Ah yes. That was the injectable form of oxytetracycline. Each mL of the injectable form contains: 100 mg oxytetracycline HCl, 5.75% w/v magnesium chloride , 6 H2O, 17% v/v water for injection, 1.3% w/v sodium formaldehyde Sulfoxylate as a preservative and q.s. with propylene glycol. Basically, it has additional compositions in it. 1000mg might have been the dose recommended for the injectable oxytetracycline, but if you have the powder form then follow the dosing rates as recommended on your bottle. Hope that clears it up a bit.     As for doxycycline and it's use to treat short antenna ... I cannot comment on whether it will be more effective than oxytetracycline or not. But if you do use it, only try one at a time. Is bacteria even been proven to be the cause of "short antenna disease"?
    • beanbag
      14 April 2015 -  Update based on experiences of one of our SKF members. Unfortunately for this shrimpkeeper it was too late to save these shrimps, but hopefully this experience will help someone else. 250+ shrimp were lost before the bacterial infection was halted.   A vet was consulted and he eventually ended up contacting a senior lecturer of aquatic animal health at University of Adelaide school of veterinary science. He stated that bacterial infections being internal or external are almost always gram negative in aquatics and recommended using oxytetracycline at a dose rate of 1000-2000mg per 40ltr of water.   Dosing method: Oxytetracycline is available in 2 forms. Powder and injectable. The injectable form was used as it is a stronger form. This meant that we could use less to obtain the required dosage.   Dosed straight into the water column at 1000mg per 40ltr of water.
    • jayc
      What?! Can you point me to where you saw that please?   If in doubt, Always follow the directions on the bottle.
    • beanbag
      What is the recommended dosing for oxytetracycline?  The sticky thread has a mention of " 1000mg per 40ltr ", but I don't know if that refers to total amount of powder, or active ingredient percentage. I live in USA, where oxytetracycline is not as common, but I was able to obtain a bottle of powder.  On the bottle, it says [calculated out to] 75 mg / 10 gal, which is a wayyyy lower value.  Also, the manufacturer / distributor won't tell me the fraction of the power that is active ingredient vs filler. This is for a Taiwan Bee shrimp tank with pH 5.5 and Gh 5, in case that matters for the effectiveness of oxytet in these parameters. I also have doxycycline available if that is equivalent / better. It's to treat that "short antenna disease" in one of my tanks that seems to show up once every few months. I've already dosed with Maracyn 1 (erythromycin) and 2 (minocycline) and they didn't seem to work.
×
×
  • Create New...