Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
BID

Shrimp death & belly fanning???

Recommended Posts

BID

Hi!

I found today the smallest of my 6 shrimp dead and can't figure out why and am hoping for help. They seemed generally less active in the last week or two, and I have noticed that they fan their belly flaps quite a lot (though none of my shrimp are berried, at least I am pretty sure, the eggs always seem pretty obvious on photos). Is it maybe too little oxygen? 

The dead shrimp appears completely normal to me, and I found it lying on its side in the middle of the tank, still flapping it's belly fins. I put it in a glass with tank water where aber about 15minutes it stopped moving completely, even if prodded. 

It shouldn't be a shedding issue, as I think this shrimp has shed about 4 days ago. It's the smallest of the 6 (almost half the size of my biggest) so I figured it must be juvenile and it shouldn't be age.

I do have some worms in there that I can't seem to get rid of, but I'm quite sure none of them are planaria. Seems to be some sort of white flat worm that usually sticks to the glass and very thin hair like ones that float around. 

All my cherry shrimp are solid red, so I can't see if they have bacterial infection. There always seems to be one of two that are paler/mottled but as they shed I think it's that? I have a hard time keeping them apart tbh

I did a 50% water change and removed most of the floating plants in case there wasn't enough aeration.

My goal with making this post is to maybe find out what might have killed it/how to avoid further deaths. I'm happy for any advice!

 

Background/setup

This is my first aquarium, just as a disclaimer, so I'm gonna list...everything, not that I oversaw sth stupid.

I got 6 cherry shrimp and 5 MTS(that have made about two dozen babies by now) approx. 5 weeks ago. The tank had been set up and running w/ plants and filter 4 weeks before that.

It's ~25L, running a sponge filter with air pump, have some java fern and moss, wood, flourite black sand, and dwarf grass(?) and a lot of tiny floating plants on top. The light sold with the aquarium (very bright) and a desk lamp (less bright) that I use sporadically.

They get fed JBL 'Nano Prawn' pellets (which they don't seem to be fond of) and sometimes blanched spinach/peas/lettuce (which they will fight eachother for). Would they starve themselves for not getting the beloved spinach&peas???

Measured half an hour ago upon finding the dead shrimp:

PH: 7.2  

Ammonia: 0

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: ~5 (now probably 2.5 as I just did a 50% water change)

Temp: 22-24C

I do use dechlorinator (tetra tap safe).

I currently don't have a gh/kh test but it's on the shopping list. They have a small piece (2x2cm) of cuttle bone permanently floating around the tank, as Glasgow water is supposedly soft and between snails and shrimp i figured they'd need it.

It has been stable like this for at least 3 weeks now, before that, week 1-2 of having the shrimp, the ph was a little lower and small amounts of ammonia/nitrite.

From what I read this should all be fine? 

Edited by BID
Accidentally posted too early, sry!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
5 hours ago, BID said:

They have a small piece (2x2cm) of cuttle bone permanently floating around the tank, as Glasgow water is supposedly soft and between snails and shrimp i figured they'd need it.

Without a GH and KH test kit, you wouldn't know if it's needed or not. If you can buy a TDS pen, that would help as well to get the TDS measurement. 

Remove the cuttle fish bone for now, at least until you get your test GH/KH kits.

A cuttle fish bone doesn't know when to stop releasing calcium, so that will keep climbing, and it could be too much calcium in the water.

Also note that calcium doesn't get utilised as efficiently if there isn't Magnesium as well in a 4:1 ratio (Ca:Mg).

If you have Magnesium sulfate in the form of Epsom salts, then add a little, a pinch or two for a 25L tank. Just make sure it pure Epsom Salts, without fragrance or other additive that can be added for baths.

 

5 hours ago, BID said:

before that, week 1-2 of having the shrimp, the ph was a little lower and small amounts of ammonia/nitrite.

The impacts of ammonia on shrimp can only surface a week or 2 after. So this is also a possibility.

 

Report back when you get your GH/KH test kit.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BID

@jayc 

Thanks for the advice! The bone was removed and I've been doing 3 waterchanges a week now (still no parameter changes) and have been feeding less (based on someone else's advice).  So far (toi toi toi) there have been no further deaths, but these friends are definitely unhappy and hiding, unlike before.
 
I now got a TDS pen, and GH/KH test!
Gh: 2
Kh:<1 (i couldn't figure out how to do half a drop)
 
So those are horribly low...
 
My TDS pen apparently needs configuring and I dont have the solution to do that, which i didnt know, but unconfigured it says: 37  (28 for tap water) which is also really low (assuming its anywhere near correct)
 
To make things even better, i spotted Vorticella on some, so I'm gonna get aquarium salt to fix that *sighs*
 
Do you have advice/experience with raising gh/kh?
 
(i totally overread the epsom salts until rereading your response now, i'll get on that)
 
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
8 hours ago, BID said:

Do you have advice/experience with raising gh/kh?

Now we know your water parameters, we can adjust it.

What you need is some remineralising mix, like Salty Shrimp GH/KH+. It will have Calcium and Magnesium premixed in a powder that you add to the tank, following some instructions on the packet. So don't worry about getting epsom salts for now.

Some of out UK members might be able to chime in on where to buy some. @sdlTBfanUK, might know.

 

8 hours ago, BID said:

My TDS pen apparently needs configuring and I dont have the solution to do that, which i didnt know, but unconfigured it says: 37  (28 for tap water) which is also really low (assuming its anywhere near correct)

That is very low indeed. Even with it unconfigured, it will probably only be a few ppm off, tens at the most.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sdlTBfanUK

At last, something I know I know, the drop test kits. I do all my drop tests by half drops, easy peasey, instead of 5ml of tank water (1st line on my testtube) use double water ie 10ml (2nd line on my test tubes) so each drop is a half. You can do quarters (each drop) etc same way, ie 20ml (or fourth line on my test tubes. This works for ALL droplet kits............ hope I have explained it properly, let me know if not and I will try again.

Good luck with the rest of it hopefully someone else can help with that!

Simon

Looks like JayC and I posted at the same time. I always use

www.pro-shrimp.co.uk as they have the best range, service and prices.

Edited by sdlTBfanUK
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Zoidburg

If GH is confirmed at 2, then TDS should be a minimum of ~35 ppm. 1 German Degree in hardness is 17.86ppm

Tap water generally runs higher though when it comes to TDS. My tap is, on average, 3 GH and 3 KH. The TDS usually ran around 56-67ish? Which honestly isn't that high!

 

If a TDS of 28 is accurate, then the GH may be around 1.5 rather than 2.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • YoloDaBolo
      By YoloDaBolo
      PLZ HELP 🙂 
    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I noticed a couple of days ago that one of my female rocket killies has some sort of disease or injury on her side, and I have no experience with fish diseases at all, so can I get some help with working out what it is and what to do about it? One of my female endlers also has a little white line on the end of her tail, and I just noticed this as well. Please help me with identifying the problems and fixing them.
      Photos are here:
      https://postimg.cc/gallery/odz029e0/
      Cheers,
      Crabclaw
    • sdlTBfanUK
      By sdlTBfanUK
      When I fed my shrimps on saturday I counted 80 and yesterday all appeared well also.
      This morning all I can see is dead bodies with a reddish colour shell to the head area.............. I assume it is rust but am not certain, only going by what I have read here.

      From what I have read here it could be because the substrate was exhausted and the PH had risen to 7.5 last time I checked (though that was slowly over time)?
      I doubt there is much I can do at this stage, but I will set up the old 15L to put any ALIVE healthy looking shrimp in IF THERE ARE ANY! and close down the big tank and start again. I guess I know next time that when the PH indicates that the substrate isn't working properly to act quicker???? When does the learning finish!
      My main queries at this stage are:
      1) Is it safe to put stuff from this tank with the dead shrimps into the small tank where I will put any healthy shrimps (If there are any alive that is) or will that be a bad idea, I am thinking, water, heater, maybe a plant or 2 etc.
      2) How do I make the bad tank good now so that it won't be contaminated for the restart? Tank, filter, heater, plants, decorations etc. I will use new substrate.
      Simon
       
    • TotalNewb
      By TotalNewb
      Help please!
      I bought a rack set up with 9 tanks and a sump. It is full of stock, neo-cardinia, cardinia  and sulawazi shrimps + a tank of endler guppys. 
      I am collecting it tomorrow with help from friends and a borrowed van. 
      Has anyone moved a rack before and what tips can they share please?
      We were thinking of lowering the water level right down and then moving them very gently in the cars - with the water in 25L drums in the van cause I don't have that much RO water spare so it will be going back in as soon as we can set it up. 
      They are moving less than 2km down the road and I will have my heating on full blast to keep the house warm - current temperature here is about 10 degrees celcius. 
      I am worried about the Sulawasis but I reckon if we keep them plugged in with the heater for as long as possible and put them back ASAP they "Should" be ok...fingers crossed. 
       
      I just read that tanks should never be moved with water in them but it will take HOURS to catch all the shrimp as there are literally hundreds of them
    • Myola
      By Myola
      Hi all,
      2 months ago I purchased 18 red cherries and put them into my well-cycled, 40 litre tank. Several of them were berried and have since given birth. Since then however, none of the other females have berried and I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong. My tank parameters are as follows: water temp - 22C, pH - 7.2, NO2 - 0, NO3 - 5, TDS - 195, KH - 1, GH - 3. My water is rainwater but I've been adding powdered egg shell in to boost the Calcium and I also have some mineral balls. I do weekly 10-15% water changes. Everyone seems happy and active but I have lost a few to failed moults (although there is evidence of plenty of successful moults too). There are plenty of places to hide and I have a piece of cholla wood that they love hiding in and eating from. I don't want to breed thousands of new shrimp, but it would be nice to see a few more little shrimplets scurrying around the tank. Most of the original babies have died with just a few juveniles left from the ones that came from the females that were berried when I bought them. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • DEL 707
      Again, thanks for all the help. I ordered the Shrimp GH+KH minerals and they arrived today and did a 20l water change. I plan to do 20l on Saturday and 20l on Tuesday when I'm off, so that'll be over 100% water change. If my tank stats come back o.k, I might finally look into getting some shrimp next week.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      It is definitely more of a balancing act when trying to keep everything happy in a tank with Shrimps and plants, but don't be put off I think you will be fine. When putting the shrimps in the tank you should take hours of dripping to acclimate them and you may lose a few with the low Ph but I am sure it will work out in the end as cherry shrimps are fairly tough. If you use all RO water and GH/KH+ then the PH will always be lower even after the buffering of the soil stops, but this is the easiest route to go! If you go the mixed water 1:3 with GH+ the same applies but the PH will be slightly higher and will be cheaper (less GH+ and RO water needed), so overall this is the way I would go, and it isn't all that complicated once you get it up and running! As with JayC I doubt you really will need any ferts but if you must then use a lot less than the packaging recommends!  The best thing to do is just decide which route you prefer to go from the start as it gets so much more difficult to change it later? I don't have any issue with keeping shrimps/fish/plants happy and I don't use CO2 or any fertilizers so it is definitely possible and not that difficult if I can do it? I think that a lot of the plant fertilizers etc are really intended for plant aquascapes without any inhabitants but with fish and/or shrimps there will be natural fertilizer and the soil should have enough to start everything off? If you still aren't too sure I would just try running the tank without the CO2 or ferts (with the exception of as JayC recommends above) for a few weeks and just see how the plants get on, as you can start using either/both again at any point if they don't look like they are ok, but I expect it will work out fine. This will also give you time to mull it over at leisure? Simon
    • jayc
      You only need Flourish Potassium, as needed, in an aquarium. Potassium will be the limiting factor to growth in most aquariums. But with shrimp in the tank, I would dose it at 1/4 strength once every 2 weeks or more. Seachem Flourish for micro nutrients at half recommended dose every other 2 weeks in between the Potassium.   But !!  I don't believe you will need too much ferts in your tank. The type of plants and the amount of plants do not warrant much ferts at all. The waste from the fish and shrimps will be enough ferts, and if they are getting enough light a day, the plants will be fine without any additional ferts, except maybe a little potassium once every few weeks.
    • DEL 707
      O.k rethink. If I use that Salty Shrimp GH/KH stuff. Can you recommend any good fertilisers I could use for the plants? I'm not dosing anything at the moment.
    • DEL 707
      Not going to lie, this is giving me a headache. Just want a nice planted tank with fish and shrimp. 🤨 At the moment it looks like it have to either pick 1 or the other. Would this be a solution. Use Seachems Equilibrium and KH products to bring my GH and KH up to 4, then use that Shrimp King Mineral Fluid Double, to bring the GH up to 6. That would make sure that there are at least some minerals for the shrimp.
×
×
  • Create New...