By Shrimp Mania
In this video I'm going to show you a cool method of keeping two different neocaridina shrimp in one tank without mixing them. I show you how I separate small colony of yellow cherry shrimp from blue dream shrimp by using small breeding box.
By Patrick Gagnon
I recently put in an order for 12 blue dream and 12 cherry shrimp. The shipping was delayed, Harrisburg PA distribution is terrible. Took over 9 days for them to arrive. 0 DOA. Nice! Anyway I've had them now for I'd say 2 weeks. One already is pregnant! And I recently found a guest staying. I have copepods all over, I heard they are fine. I'm not sure what this is. Looks to have antennas, like a snail or something.
So some background
My 10g tank has:
1 Cardinia that stowed away in a plant shipment I got
3 Rainbow Paskais
1 Celestial Danio
Crinum Calamistratum (Onion Plant)
Nymphaea Zenkeri (Tiger Lotus)
Bolbitis Heudelotii (Creeping Fern)
Eleocharis sp. Mini (Mini Dwarf Hairgrass )
Micranthemum (Monte Carlo)
A random piece of Subwasstertang
algea but i dont want that
The overall goal of this tank is to be a shrimp tank with the neos and maybe a species of Caridina once I'm a little more experienced. But I have a hard time keeping the neos alive a friend who owns the LFS ive been buying them at recommended i try buying from a local shrimper because his shrimp might be more well suited to the local water than the shrimp he buys from abroad because he thinks its weird that im having a tough time with Neos. So I did just that when i met up with him he told me co2 might be the issue since it makes the water acidic and makes molting hard and it makes the water parameters more unstable so I stopped using Co2 for the time being and the shrimp look healthy. But the issue is I would like to keep using Co2 for the benefits to the plants and because id like to keep the carpet ive been working on.
Temp: 74.5 F/ 23.6 C
Ph: Between 6 and 6.4 (im bad at colors) but its yellow (API Test)
Kh: 4 drops the chat says 4 degrees 71 PPM
Gh: 6 drops the chart says 6 degrees 107 PPM
TDS: Waiting on a meter from amazon.
Lights are on between 4 PM and 9:30 PM for those who don't do the military time. Bellow are the spectral percentages of light if this helps anyone.
Any advice on how and if I should add Co2?
I’m confused about the ID on this parasite/infection my neo has. She has nothing on her head/rostrum at all...it seems to be mostly around her eggs, with some on her shell, off to the side.
I’ve done one salt dip on her already, and no change so far.
I have some great pics of it, but even a single pic is apparently much to be posted here. Can someone help me out with that? Newbie, here. 😏
It is probably too early to start this but as I have no idea really what I am doing I thought it a good idea to maybe get others thoughts/ideas from the beginning?
The aim is to find out if I can reduce the life of the 'buffering' of soil substrates for anyone wanting to use soil substrate with cherry shrimps which do better at higher PH than buffering substrates run, until they are exhausted, and before they get shrimps in the tank - that can't be many people I know???
I set up a betta tank mid March and the buffering with the JBL substrate stopped about 4 months later., though you may be able to knock off a month as I was only doing part (25%) water changes? Obviously no one wants to wait that long so I am just trying this experiment as I have 2L of shrimp king soil left over anyway. that I won't use!
At the moment I have put 5L dechlorinated tap water in a bucket with 1L of substrate. The tap water is PH7.5 (KH3, TDS 154) and I am planning to do 50% water changes twice a week until the PH gets back to the 7.5 at which point I can assume it is exhausted? I will then try the same experiment using PH+ to see if that will speed up the process, but I haven't ordered that just yet?
Any suggestions, am I doing it correctly, does it even make any sense?
So this should give me an idea of how long it will take to stop buffering just using tap water but doing twice weekly 50% water changes, and then whether using PH+ would speed it up notably?
This is just to get an idea, and different soil substrates will probably be different so I am not really looking for a definite answer as to the time length etc, more an idea as to whether either of these will work well for others in the future that want to keep cherry shrimp with the soil substrates. Having said that I have always kept cherry shrimp in lower than recommended PH (to start wirh) without a problem anyway?