Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Myola

Another case of mysterious deaths

Recommended Posts

Myola

In the last week or so I've had 3 deaths in my cherry shrimp tank. Parameters all seem fine: pH 7.2, TDS 270, NO2  0, NO3  5, Gh 7, Kh 1, Temp 23C. But out of the blue these three deaths. I watched this evening as number 3 died right in front of me. She zipped briefly around the tank, sometimes on her side or upside down, then settled on the floor of the tank for a couple of minutes and didn't move. Then jumped up and curled herself up and fell down on her side, dead. The photo is terrible (left my good camera at work today) but I did notice a sort of gap in her shell between her carapace and her abdomen. I don't see this gap on any of my other shrimp and don't remember her having it either prior to today. I wonder if this is some sort of symptom that I could have picked up on and indicated that something was wrong. I did have to move the tank a week ago to a room with air con as the water was sitting for a couple of days at 26C. Could the high temp have had something to do with it, or would they just have died right then and there when the tank was hot? The only other recent change is the addition of an oxydator 2 weeks ago. Could it be that, or maybe a moulting issue? There is evidence of moults in the tank and I have lots breeding. There are many babies now that I have raised my GH, which was an earlier issue. If anyone has any ideas, it would be great.

IMG_2491.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
12 hours ago, Myola said:

maybe a moulting issue?

^ This. 

It might have sustained that injury while trying to moult. Which points to water parameters.

Lower the temp of the tank in a short amount of time can induce moults. By moving the tank to a cold room, the water temps dropped quickly. Maybe she wasn't ready for a moult.

26 degC isn't (shouldn't be) a problem for Cherries.

 

The failed moult could also be a cause of GH 7.  

Are you adding any Calcium/Magnesium to the tank? Got any rocks in your tank?

GH 7 seems like a weird number with a low KH of 1 and high pH 7.2  and soft TDS of 270.

KH 1 should give you lower pH.

And GH 7 should give you higher TDS.

Unless, one or two of those measurements were not accurate.

Edited by jayc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Myola

Hi Jay C,

Another death overnight. Looks the same as the 3 previous deaths this week with a split in the exoskeleton between the carapace and abdomen. When we moved the tank just over a week ago, the water temp went from 26.5 to 23 in 24 hours. Would that have been too quick and cause the moults? 

I've redone all my water tests this morning with the same results except for TDS which is 285 now (creeping up because of evaporation I think). The water I'm using is tank water which is a combination of rain/bore water. Straight out of the tank it currently has a pH of 7.4 or higher, but this varies throughout the year depending on the exact make-up of the water i.e: how much rain water and how much bore. For this reason I often have to add 'API Proper pH 6.5'. I aim to make my water fairly neutral. If I feel like I'm having to add too much of this product then I will go for a pH of 7.2 so that I don't have to add too much. I try really hard to keep the water as stable as possible and do 10-15% water changes religiously every week. I feel like I'm losing the battle though and am now considering an RO system. As well as adding the pH product, I also have to add Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ to get the GH up as this is extremely low or non-existent in our water. Does all this make sense now? Any other suggestions? They have just started breeding and out of my little family of 15 adults, 5 are berried and 2 others have dropped their babies this week. So in amongst the death, there has been life too. I just hope I can work out what I'm doing wrong though and keep them alive. 😞

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
18 hours ago, Myola said:

add 'API Proper pH 6.5'. 

This maybe causing unpredictable problems. You won't need proper pH if you used pure rain or ro water with salty shrimp GH. This probably explains your weird readings.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Myola

Thanks Jay C, no more deaths overnight thankfully. Since the deaths only started occurring when we had to start putting bore water into our water tank recently, I think it must be the pH fluctuations as you said. Right, that's it, I'm off to buy an RO system. Any recommendations? Also, what would be the upper limit for the temp range for Neos?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
3 hours ago, Myola said:

Any recommendations?

yep,

https://www.filtersystemsaustralia.com.au/reverse-osmosis-water-filter/aquarium-systems.html

Tell them SKF sent you. And ask if they still have a 10% discount for SKF members. 

If you are confused about which tap attachment to get, ring them and talk to them.

Either the $190 or $199 is good enough. If you want to use it for drinking water too, get the $285 system. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Myola
2 hours ago, jayc said:

 

Tell them SKF sent you. And ask if they still have a 10% discount for SKF members. 

 

Either the $190 or $199 is good enough. If you want to use it for drinking water too, get the $285 system. 

 

Decided to go ahead with the $199 system and have contacted them regarding a discount, now waiting to hear back from them (probably tomorrow I guess). Now I've just gotta work out how I'm going to justify the expense to hubby!  

Thanks so much for the help and info, what would we noobies (and our shrimpies) do without you!!??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
3 hours ago, Myola said:

Thanks so much for the help and info, what would we noobies (and our shrimpies) do without you!!??

No problem. I get the joy of helping others in the hobby.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Zoidburg

If using SS GH/KH, then you should have about 3.5 KH to 7 GH.

At 0-1 KH, I would expect there to be a buffering substrate reducing the KH and lowering the pH. This is probably where the API Proper pH comes into play... and is probably wrecking havoc on your tank and inhabitants.

Cherry shrimp do not need a neutral pH and can thrive at higher pH levels.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • Crabclaw
      Thanks for the advice guys, I really appreciate it! As for the details, the tank is my 110L community, and while none of my fish are especially expensive or special, but I don’t want to lose any or have to rescape. The reason I was hoping to avoid qt is bc I don’t have a spare tank or filter atm. I think I will qt I think. How long should I do it for, and do I need to cycle the tank very long?
    • beanbag
      Hello folks, This is in regards to my TB tank that has had shrimp for about 2 months now.  The shrimp came in two batches from different vendors - one was two BKK and the other was a bunch of RWP and BB.  Everything was going well for about 2 months with the shrimps actively grazing around and suddenly I found one of the BKK dead and upright in a corner of the tank.  I usually do a check-up on the shrimp every day and the only time the shrimp are inert is one day before and after a molt.  In the past when I had shrimp die for various reasons they would be inert for a few days prior. The water parameters are the same as usual: Amm/NO2/NO3 = 0, ph = 6.0 or a little lower, GH 5, TDS 110 Using RO + SS GH+ and I did a 15% water change 2 days ago, dripping in the new water. I haven't fed any pellet shrimp food for a while because there are still lots of patches of algae in the tank, plus one IAL, plus they finished off a mulberry leaf 2 days ago. Nothing looks odd on the dead body of this shrimp (no real color loss) except the clear parts like antennae and tip of tail are a little orange.  (I think this is typical of shrimp that have died?  Or a molt shell once you remove it from the water and expose it to air.) The only odd things about this shrimp are that in the 2 months, it molted a few times but never grew much (or at all) over the original 1/2" size.  About a month ago, the white parts of it started turning blue.  The other BKK that came at the same time also either hasn't grown at all or maybe just a tiny bit, and only has little patches of blue.  The other batch of shrimp from a different breeder (RWP and BB) have grown significantly over this time. Anyway, the rest of the shrimp seem to still be doing well and actively grazing.  (Actually, two are acting quiet, but it is still within the pre-molt time frame) I hope it's not bacterial infection, but what can I do to prevent / prepare?  I have available: Dr Tim's Eco balance, Doxycycline (fish med), oregano oil, melafix, H2O2.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I agree with JayC and have N|EVER quarantined personally, but there is also something a little more to consider. My setups are small and simple/basic and don't have many fish  - all about 30L max! If you have spent a lot of time and money setting up a beautiful tank, cycling it etc and then you introduce fish with some sort of disease or parasite you will need to TREAT the tank or may even have to re-setup the tank, if you put those sick fish in it so not only will you lose the fish you may have wasted a lot of time and money, and may have to completely start again from scratch, and never be 100% confident it/they won't recur. You may have to cycle etc again, buy new stuff depending on what the treatment was etc? I would say if you have a small bare bottom tank with a spare filter WHY not quarantine for the peace of mind? I am aware of course that I  am being hypocritical in saying this..............................so just a thought! Simon
    • jayc
      If they are the first inhabitants in a tank, then not needed. Beyond that, it's difficult to answer as it is a personal choice. we never value the quarantine process, until we REALLY need it, by the time we find out, it's too late. And we always wish we had quarantined. If it was me, my thought process goes like this ... i ask myself, do I already have inhabitants in the tank that are so rare and precious that I absolutely CANNOT loose due to disease? If the answer is Yes, than I quarantine any new tank inhabitants - fish or plants.
    • Crabclaw
      Hey all. So, I'm getting some cory cats in the near future, and I want to know if I need to quarantine them. I know a guy at my lfs really well, and I trust the store, so I might be able to get them to hold and quarantine them for me for a week. I'd prefer to just add them straight to the tank if it's possible though. If not, then I can sort a qt tank soon. Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...