Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Proy21

Cherry death - black/dark blue shell

Recommended Posts

Proy21

Good morning,

I received my order of 20 shrimp from a very well known breeder. All looked good.

all water parameters were ok yesterday and are the same today.

the tank has been up and running for 6 months.

i had one cherry in there for almost the whole time. (Had more but I believe the black diamond sand created issues for the first 20 I bought) somehow this single shrimp has been a trooper and never had any issues, I obviously removed the sand)

TDS is 245

i had one shrimp die overnight...to be expected I guess. Weird part is that when I found it this morning it had areas of black or dark blue on the sides of both head and tail. 

I added in the tiniest amount of Bacter AE after they arrived. I also offered 2 granules of north Fin community and veggie. Which was gone a few hours later.

so I’m wondering if anyone has any ideas? All the other shrimp look ok so far.

05FF85AD-4419-4339-9009-0A623C65ADCD.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
6 hours ago, Proy21 said:

it had areas of black or dark blue on the sides of both head and tail.

Was this a Red cherry or Black cherry?

Pigmentation can change colour on death of the shrimp.

It's difficult to tell from a photo if its pigmentation change or bacterial infection.

 

To be safe, test your water parameters for ammonia. A large change in population can cause issues in a small tank, especially when the beneficial bacteria cannot cope with the sudden increase in waste.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Proy21
33 minutes ago, jayc said:

Was this a Red cherry or Black cherry?

Pigmentation can change colour on death of the shrimp.

It's difficult to tell from a photo if its pigmentation change or bacterial infection.

 

To be safe, test your water parameters for ammonia. A large change in population can cause issues in a small tank, especially when the beneficial bacteria cannot cope with the sudden increase in waste.

It was a normal red cherry. It was as they all were, a standard red color. No dark pigmentation in the bunch. Color definitely changed after death. All other shrimp are healthy, eating and moving around.

water parameters were tested twice yesterday and twice today, i’ll probably do a third before the night is over. All parameters are perfect, tested with drops and tubes. Gh &Kh are acceptable. TDS is 240ish and hasn’t  moved in a long while.

tell me about the bacteria that you reference.

thanks

Edited by Proy21
Words

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
On 9/21/2018 at 9:48 AM, Proy21 said:

tell me about the bacteria that you reference.

Here ...

 

Everything we know about shrimp diseases is in this thread.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  



  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • kms
      Mine is a DIY Chiller, as you know a peltier has a hot side and cold side, for the cold side to stay cold, the hot side must be kept cold and with a heatsink and fan to cool it down. My DIY chiller has two sides and two water block. blue aluminum block with tube leading to the outlet of the canister filter and back to the tank to chill the tank water. copper block is to cool the hot side of the peltier, with copper block to the radiator/fan and a water pump looping. The problem is the tube from the water pump came off, apparently the plastic from the pump started to melt and the tube came off and the looping side had no water, so the copper water block stayed hot all the time with heat transferred to the cold side of the peltier also heating the water. since the copper takes time to cool down, most of the heat and the room hot temp had already heat the tank water to about 45 C.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Try testing it again and see what you get or to confirm that the previous were right, especially the higher Ph reading is all I can recommend! If there is some explanation for the difference hopefully someone will reply and let you know, but I expect there won't actually be a difference if you do it again? Simon
    • jayc
      No that's not normal. But I don't know which tube in your loop had come off. Can you show us?   Yes that would have helped a bit, and at least give KMS more time to have found the issue by turning off the chiller. As I understand, kms has a peltier style chiller, and a tube of the pump had come off, which meant that hot water from the hot side of the peltier flowed back into the tank. So if the chiller was on the same temp controller, it would have turned off the chiller at around 26degC. The tank might have got warmer in his room, but it would have been at a much slower rate, and certainly would not have reached 45degC.
    • kvinnyy
      I'm using the API master test kit with the dropper bottles. I was just very confused at how much more akaline the water was coming out of the filter compared to the water out in the open. I can't imagine how this fluctuating change in pH is going to be beneficial for my crs.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      What type of test are you doing strip or drip? I use drip tests and always ignore the first attempt as no matter how well I clean and keep the test set it is often way out of line. Las time first test was Ph8, second test Ph6. Sometimes first attempt looks ok so I have no idea what is going on????? If you just tried once it may be worth testing again? Simon
×
×
  • Create New...