Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Heidi

New Nerite Snail Behaviour? / Any Sellers in Au?

Recommended Posts

Heidi

Hello! I'm new here and not sure if this is the way to ask questions or not so please let me know if I'm meant to do it some other way.

I recently received 3 nerite snails last Wednesday and two were DOA (dead on arrival). Actually, there wasnt even anything inside the two shells!! One however, was alive but in bad shape as its shell was not in good condition so I am going to provide it with calcium powder soon. I've read that they take a little time to adjust to new environments but the little guy hasnt moved since he arrived. I gently tugged on his trapdoor and he resisted so I assume he is alive as he also doesn't smell rotten. I've tried putting kale or algae wafers under him but nothing ): Does fluval stratum substrate have copper in it because I've heard that they are sensitive to copper and that is the substrate I am using which I didnt even think about! 

I was also wondering if there were any Aussie sellers here that have any of the black nerite snail variety? I heard that they are legal here but please correct me if I am wrong.

So sorry for the long post.. any response would be greatly appreciated! ?

Edited by Heidi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
fishmosy

Hey Heidi, yes some freshwater nerites are native to Australia but they are only available rarely. The true freshwater nerite that is available is called Neritina pulligera, one common name is the baseball cap nerite. They get up to around 4-5cm. I have some of these which I've had for several years. They don't seem to eat artificial foods but instead feed on the algae and biofilm growing in a tank.

Assuming you have a good amount of biofilm growing in your tank, your nerite doesn't need to be fed. In fact, moving it around and trying to feed it will only make it stay in its shell. Note that nerites tend to be more nocturnal (active at night) when they are first introduced to aquariums, but slowly became more active during the day. 

One more thing - the fact that you had two nerites arrive as shells only suggests you may have dealt with a dodgy seller. If so, you may need to check if you have a true freshwater nerite. Several nerites live in brackish and seawater that could appear in the hobby. In fact, the nerites that appear in rock pools will tolerate low salinity / freshwater for short periods - they have to in the wild when it rains - but they will eventually die if kept in a freshwater aquaria. Best to see if you can ID which nerite you have.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jc12

Hi Heidi, welcome to the forum.

I know Dave from Aquagreen sells the native nerites Neritina violacea. Check out their catalogue here: http://www.aquagreen.com.au/catalog.html

This is a short write up on the Neritina violacea: http://www.aquagreen.com.au/plant_data/Neritina_violacea.html

15 hours ago, fishmosy said:

The true freshwater nerite that is available is called Neritina pulligera, one common name is the baseball cap nerite. They get up to around 4-5cm. I have some of these which I've had for several years. They don't seem to eat artificial foods but instead feed on the algae and biofilm growing in a tank.

Very keen if you have any to spare together with the c. wilkinsi when you are able to source them. :happy:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Heidi

Thank you both for your replies!! I didn't see these messages as I didnt receive an email for some reason..

Anyhow, sadly the snail I was talking about has died and I have just received 3 new ones. Two are moving around (1 is a lot more active) and the third one has a big pit in its shell like the one before ): I will try my best to take care of them and I am sure that the most active one is the neritina violacea kind. Definitely looks like it. I've supplied the guys with some cuttle bone I stuck in the filter and hopefully it wont bother my betta!

I sent Dave an email about the snails and hopefully I hear a reply. They are very rare here! I'm planning to purchase two more for my sorority and two will stay in Pluto's (my betta) tank.

Are they bothered by a neutral pH? I've heard that can deteriorate their shells and I do have the fluval stratum substrate in there which does lower the pH. I tested it the other day and it's a little over neutral so should that be okay?

Edited by Heidi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • Crystal Jade
      By Crystal Jade
      So I lost 3 shrimp today - two out of my 8 Blue Velvet Shrimp and my one Blue Dream. I don't know why or what the cause was although my guesses involve either overfeeding or possibly water shock from a small water change. 
      My parameters are as follows: 
      GH: 5-6
      KH: 5
      PH: 7.6
      Nitrite: 0 ppm
      Nitrate: 0.25 ppm 
      Water temp: 68-78 degrees F 
      My water is tinged green and I have 4 live plants (including a Java fern), a moss ball, an Indian Almond Leaf, and a Rock in the tank itself as well as one small snail. I got  a siphon pump today to be able to do easier water changes. How would one go about water changes in an area that is a bit colder than many other places? I started using cold water after making a mistake on using hot water which could have been a problem... but now that things are a bit more in place I want to try and get stuff settled. 
      If I got more shrimp: how long should I drip acclimate? 
      What would be the best way to use tap water for water changes when I only have one heater? Or would I want to use distilled water? 
      How often should I feed the shrimp? I keep reading all sorts of different tips and views. 
      Is it okay and normal for shrimp to hide under the rock? I have some (4) pretty small and pretty transparent shrimp that I haven't seen since I introduced them into my tank. I don't want to move my rock and find dead shrimp underneath...Maybe I should just give up? I don't want to but maybe I should figure out what is up with my tank first. Because I have no clue why this is happening. Is it my Nitrate and Nitrite levels? 
       
       
       
    • Rare Aqua
      By Rare Aqua
      The in depth guide to keeping as well as breeding Amarinus lacustris by Hervey Doerr-Rolley
       
      Overview
      The aim of this article is to educate and warn people of the mistakes I made and how I was successful with breeding and keeping this species. I published an article about this species several years ago so thought it was time for an updated guide for anyone wanting to keep and breed this species. All my knowledge about this species has been developed over the 4 years I've kept this species as well as the many scientific articles I've studied, I first kept this species when I was 15 and now 19, my colony is still going strongly. Currently studying a bachelor of Marine science. Firstly I'd like to point out this species does not have a larval cycle, it is a far too common misconception people have. I believe this thought is derived from their much larger cousin the Amarinus laevis and the Thai micro crab, Limnopilos naiyanetri. Amarinus lacustris have fully formed offspring, meaning their offspring are essentially miniature adults once hatched from their egg. Some points of interest about this species, there are 8 instars before their pubertal moult. Females up to two moults before their pubertal moult can copulate and store spermatozoon, once she reaches the pubertal moult she can then impregnate herself without the need of copulation. The stored spermatozoon can then be used up to 15 separate brood cycles (15 clutches of eggs). Adult females can carry up to *35 eggs (anecdotal) and take around 25-30 days at 15 degrees Celsius to hatch as fully formed offspring. 
       
      Water chemistry
      A. lacustris have a strong preference for hard water, I keep and breed mine in;
      pH: 8-8.2
      Ammonia:0ppm
      Nitrate:0ppm
      Nitrite:0ppm
      KH:125ppm 
      *25% water changes are done weekly*
       
      Breeding and Husbandry 
      Key points for their care;
      Gravel substrate - fine pea gravel is best.
      Air pump sponge filters are essential as this provides cleaner water as well as a feeding ground for the offspring as well as adults.
      Mulm and moss are essential.
      A good rule of thumb from my experience is 500ml of aquarium space per baby-sub adult, and then 1L per adult crab, this allows for less aggression from male to male behavior. It is up to you but the less stocking density the better due to the aggression of breeding from males, keep in mind this aggression is only towards other males however females that are being copulated with may sustain serious injuries if too many males are kept together. The best ratios are two males to 8 females. When a female sheds she releases hormones into the water column just like shrimp, if any of you are familiar with breeding shrimp you can note this by the erratic and fast speeds the males zoom around the aquarium searching for the female, this is the same case with A. lacustris except the swimming, rather they crawl quickly around the aquarium in search for the female to copulate with. Once the male finds the female he will grasp the female tightly underside to underside in a 'hug' embrace, he will then fertilize the female. This embrace can last minutes or hours depending on the male. Eggs will soon become visible and as described above hatch within 25-30 days*. This species is a cold water crustacean so you must remember that, breeding will cease if the temperature goes above 22 Celsius. Keep them in a mature mulm filled aquarium with leaf litter (I use oak leaves) with plenty of hiding spots and moss, a 8pH and 15 Celsius and before you know it you will have berried females.
       
      Feeding
       
      Surprisingly my A. lacustris do not eat commercial foods, I feed mine cultured white worms which are perfect as they grow to a max size of 3cm and survive underwater for several days. I also add snails to my aquarium as the crabs feed on their feces. Funnily enough baby crabs will eat the white worms too once they are 2 instars old, so it is not uncommon to see a 2mm baby crab hanging on to a 2cm long white worm! I feed my crabs every 3 days and small amounts of the worms to reduce water quality issues.
       
      Common questions I am asked 
       
      As I was the first person in Australia and the world to raise fully tank raised F2 offspring i have come across many commonly asked questions. "can I get these crabs in country x?" so far you can legally only get these crabs in their native geographical regions, however once these crabs are even more commonly bred their popularity over the Thai micro crab will be clearly abundant simply due to their ease of breeding which you know, therefore I wouldn't be surprised if these hit the international market once they're being large scale bred. "Do you have any for sale?" when I have crabs for sale I have a waiting list, If you want to ask questions or be on the waiting list email me: zebradanio88@hotmail.com. "can these go with fish x?" if the fish is 4cm or less they are fine generally, my opinion is keep the species only or with shrimp which leads to the next question "are the shrimp safe" and yes they are, however they are naturally scavengers so if you have dead or sick shrimp they will eat them, if your shrimp are healthy they will not predate on them. "how long do they live for?" they live for around 2-3 years+. "why are all my crabs dying" this question is addressed below; 
       
      Major issue that needs to be addressed 
       
      Since my first sales of A. lacustris I suddenly saw a spike of ads for them in Australia, unfortunately I could tell the individuals for sale were all wild caught and at best had only lived in an aquarium for a couple weeks of their life. This then would result in people encouraging the decimation and local extinction of the species in our waterways due to peoples greed of wanting to make a quick buck off this amazing native species. The crabs that I breed and sell are all aquarium raised individuals ONLY, I have put time, money and effort into the crabs I breed to ensure I do not impact the wild populations and offer aquarium suited specimens for people wanting to keep them. I have had a plethora of emails from people asking me why crabs they had sourced outside of my individuals had suddenly died off, this is simply due to the fact these crabs have not been aquarium raised and selectively bred for years like mine have. I find it horrendous that people think it is okay to collect many wild individuals to then sell knowing full well they will die within around a 3 month period just for their sake to make some 'fast' money. So please before you buy from a seller of these crabs ask as many questions as you can to find out how many generations old your crabs are and how long they've been bred for etc. If they cannot supply a high amount of detail or simply quote my articles about them do not buy from that seller. Do not support poachers for your aquarium! This applies with all species, worldwide.
       
      Thank you for reading my article,
      again if you have any questions feel free to email me as I'm always happy to help out ethical keepers and potential breeders of this species.
       
      Author and credits: Hervey Doerr-Rolley

      View full article
    • Rare Aqua
      By Rare Aqua
      The in depth guide to keeping as well as breeding Amarinus lacustris by Hervey Doerr-Rolley
       
      Overview
      The aim of this article is to educate and warn people of the mistakes I made and how I was successful with breeding and keeping this species. I published an article about this species several years ago so thought it was time for an updated guide for anyone wanting to keep and breed this species. All my knowledge about this species has been developed over the 4 years I've kept this species as well as the many scientific articles I've studied, I first kept this species when I was 15 and now 19, my colony is still going strongly. Currently studying a bachelor of Marine science. Firstly I'd like to point out this species does not have a larval cycle, it is a far too common misconception people have. I believe this thought is derived from their much larger cousin the Amarinus laevis and the Thai micro crab, Limnopilos naiyanetri. Amarinus lacustris have fully formed offspring, meaning their offspring are essentially miniature adults once hatched from their egg. Some points of interest about this species, there are 8 instars before their pubertal moult. Females up to two moults before their pubertal moult can copulate and store spermatozoon, once she reaches the pubertal moult she can then impregnate herself without the need of copulation. The stored spermatozoon can then be used up to 15 separate brood cycles (15 clutches of eggs). Adult females can carry up to *35 eggs (anecdotal) and take around 25-30 days at 15 degrees Celsius to hatch as fully formed offspring. 
       
      Water chemistry
      A. lacustris have a strong preference for hard water, I keep and breed mine in;
      pH: 8-8.2
      Ammonia:0ppm
      Nitrate:0ppm
      Nitrite:0ppm
      KH:125ppm 
      *25% water changes are done weekly*
       
      Breeding and Husbandry 
      Key points for their care;
      Gravel substrate - fine pea gravel is best.
      Air pump sponge filters are essential as this provides cleaner water as well as a feeding ground for the offspring as well as adults.
      Mulm and moss are essential.
      A good rule of thumb from my experience is 500ml of aquarium space per baby-sub adult, and then 1L per adult crab, this allows for less aggression from male to male behavior. It is up to you but the less stocking density the better due to the aggression of breeding from males, keep in mind this aggression is only towards other males however females that are being copulated with may sustain serious injuries if too many males are kept together. The best ratios are two males to 8 females. When a female sheds she releases hormones into the water column just like shrimp, if any of you are familiar with breeding shrimp you can note this by the erratic and fast speeds the males zoom around the aquarium searching for the female, this is the same case with A. lacustris except the swimming, rather they crawl quickly around the aquarium in search for the female to copulate with. Once the male finds the female he will grasp the female tightly underside to underside in a 'hug' embrace, he will then fertilize the female. This embrace can last minutes or hours depending on the male. Eggs will soon become visible and as described above hatch within 25-30 days*. This species is a cold water crustacean so you must remember that, breeding will cease if the temperature goes above 22 Celsius. Keep them in a mature mulm filled aquarium with leaf litter (I use oak leaves) with plenty of hiding spots and moss, a 8pH and 15 Celsius and before you know it you will have berried females.
       
      Feeding
       
      Surprisingly my A. lacustris do not eat commercial foods, I feed mine cultured white worms which are perfect as they grow to a max size of 3cm and survive underwater for several days. I also add snails to my aquarium as the crabs feed on their feces. Funnily enough baby crabs will eat the white worms too once they are 2 instars old, so it is not uncommon to see a 2mm baby crab hanging on to a 2cm long white worm! I feed my crabs every 3 days and small amounts of the worms to reduce water quality issues.
       
      Common questions I am asked 
       
      As I was the first person in Australia and the world to raise fully tank raised F2 offspring i have come across many commonly asked questions. "can I get these crabs in country x?" so far you can legally only get these crabs in their native geographical regions, however once these crabs are even more commonly bred their popularity over the Thai micro crab will be clearly abundant simply due to their ease of breeding which you know, therefore I wouldn't be surprised if these hit the international market once they're being large scale bred. "Do you have any for sale?" when I have crabs for sale I have a waiting list, If you want to ask questions or be on the waiting list email me: zebradanio88@hotmail.com. "can these go with fish x?" if the fish is 4cm or less they are fine generally, my opinion is keep the species only or with shrimp which leads to the next question "are the shrimp safe" and yes they are, however they are naturally scavengers so if you have dead or sick shrimp they will eat them, if your shrimp are healthy they will not predate on them. "how long do they live for?" they live for around 2-3 years+. "why are all my crabs dying" this question is addressed below; 
       
      Major issue that needs to be addressed 
       
      Since my first sales of A. lacustris I suddenly saw a spike of ads for them in Australia, unfortunately I could tell the individuals for sale were all wild caught and at best had only lived in an aquarium for a couple weeks of their life. This then would result in people encouraging the decimation and local extinction of the species in our waterways due to peoples greed of wanting to make a quick buck off this amazing native species. The crabs that I breed and sell are all aquarium raised individuals ONLY, I have put time, money and effort into the crabs I breed to ensure I do not impact the wild populations and offer aquarium suited specimens for people wanting to keep them. I have had a plethora of emails from people asking me why crabs they had sourced outside of my individuals had suddenly died off, this is simply due to the fact these crabs have not been aquarium raised and selectively bred for years like mine have. I find it horrendous that people think it is okay to collect many wild individuals to then sell knowing full well they will die within around a 3 month period just for their sake to make some 'fast' money. So please before you buy from a seller of these crabs ask as many questions as you can to find out how many generations old your crabs are and how long they've been bred for etc. If they cannot supply a high amount of detail or simply quote my articles about them do not buy from that seller. Do not support poachers for your aquarium! This applies with all species, worldwide.
       
      Thank you for reading my article,
      again if you have any questions feel free to email me as I'm always happy to help out ethical keepers and potential breeders of this species.
       
      Author and credits: Hervey Doerr-Rolley
    • Crabby
      By Crabby
      Hey everyone,
      I was recently (meaning today) given the opportunity to set up a breeding tank for some native inverts (or some harder to breed fish I guess, but I want to go for shrimp) in a fishroom I help out in. I've been trying to decide what native shrimp I want to try breeding, but then I remembered that it's not as simple as exotics. Can I get some input from the 'experts' (@Grubs, @NoGi, @Baccus, @fishmosy, @jayc of course, I know most of you aren't very active anymore, but I would appreciate your help if you see this message) on what native invert you guys think is easiest to breed (for a semi-noob who hasn't kept natives before). I can set it up as brackish I think, we have an archer fish tank there and are setting up a saltwater as well so should have access to those tools and materials.  
      Cheers!
    • kerkc
      By kerkc
      I've had these snails in my tank for over a year and I don't know what kind they are. They're incredibly hardy and unknowingly got them attached to some plants I got at petsmart. If anyone can ID them please help me! I live these guys and they're the only snails that have survived living with my goldfish.

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • abepaniagua
      Also, I forgot to say and ask. Very few of my neos are 1 color. Most have a clear area where organs are, then circled by its color. Let me share a picture.  This shrimp seems like it's black but head area is clear. Most of my blue neos were like that.  Now this one is one of the few that grew up 1 colored, and I have no idea what freaking color it is. I didn't buy it, so I'm sure it's one of my first babies from last September/October. But parents were both blue neos, and it doesn't have a clear area where you can see organs. Is that normal?
    • abepaniagua
      Thank you for all the help. I believe the issue was a bacteria. Deaths have stopped so far. Shrimps are very active, they keep molting and there's still 1 berried female. I keep doing water changes until it cycles, and half the tank doesn't have the fuzzy white thing anymore. The other part does still.
    • Crystal Jade
      I haven't been able to find an ammonia test kit so maybe that was my problem but I woke up to no dead shrimp. Before I do a water change I want to make sure my water I have is correct with water parameters and GH and KH  especially. I did cycle my tank and it should be fully cycled by now.    Thank you all!
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry to hear you lost some shrimps! How big is your tank and how long has it been running? Did you do the 'cycle'? When doing a water change you should drip the new water into the tank. That will illiminate the temperature difference problem and any difference in parameters between the two waters. When acclimating new shrimps you should drip acclimate them as long as you can, the longer you do that the better chance they have of survival. You will need to match the water temperature to that of the tank by floating the container with the shrimp in the tank once you have stopped dripping, before adding the shrimp to the tank! The parameters you have I would think are acceptable so I would stick with tap water if that is what you are using, for now. RO water is ideal but you will then need to buy GH/KH+ to add the minerals. As I say, I would hold off using RO/distilled water for now until we can pin point the problem. If your water has a green tint to it that may be an algae bloom? A white tint is usually a bacteria bloom and I have only seen that whilst a tank is 'cycling'. I think an algae bloom will mean there is less oxygen in the water as the algae absorbs it?????? Overfeedinng is very common. It will depend upon the size of the tank and how long it has been running etc. With only a few shrimp there may actually be no need to feed additional to the natural biofilm of the tank. As shrimps are feeding all day on biofilm it is usually better to see additional food as just a treat and feed very sparingly. Overfeeding with shrimps doesn't usually mean that the shrimps over eat, it usually means  too much uneaten food polutes the water and if you have green tinted water, algae bloom, that may be why? There usually comes a time, if you are lucky, that there are too many shrimps in the tank for the biofilm to sustain on its own, so as the population grows feeding may become more necessary. Shrimp don't usually hide unless they are new to the tank or there are fish etc (even then they will usually adapt to them) or as JayC says, their is something wrong with the water quality?  Simon
    • Crabby
      Sorry... this was meant to be partially sarcastic. I mean it's a bit sad but I don't really mind all too much. Yeah they're like that, with those big mouths. 
×
×
  • Create New...