Jump to content

Fishmosy's air supply system for rack

Recommended Posts


At the request of a member, here are a few shots from my current set-up showing my PVC looped air supply.

Its based on my old set-up (see link below), but rejigged for a rack.


For those of you who are unaware, this is my rack:

Circumstances were such that I could not build the air supply onto the back of the rack until the rack was in place with tanks running. It would have been much nicer if I could have set it up first, so I encourage you to do this if you want to make something similar. I will show you the main problem later on.

A (really) simple schematic for the loop is:



The PVC loop is cable-tied onto the back of my rack system so is able to be dismantled if I need to move the rack.




The top line is joined to a Resun LP20 air pump using a rubber hose with a special joiner that can slide (in and out) and twist (i.e. rotate) - this minimizes vibration and therefore noise from the pump. I can't remember what this joiner is called, but I found it at Bunnings. Hose clamps are used to hold the rubber hose in place (for peace of mind).



Luckily I have a high shelf nearby that I can use to sit the air pump on. Remember it is very important to position the air pump above the position of the tanks so that if the power goes off, the water from the tanks will not back siphon into the air pump and ruin it. Alternatively you can use a one-way valve in front of the air pump, but having seen so many of them fail, I do not trust one-way valves at all.



Each 'rung' on the loop has a series of 4mm outlets which I use to attach air line to the sponge filters in the tanks. Details for the taps are in my 'air supply' thread (linked above). The taps can be found at specialist irrigation shops or online. Bunnings does not carry them.




There is one regret I have with this system. The top 'rung' does not reach the top of the tanks on the top level of the racks (see below). This means there is some risk that the water from these tanks could back siphon into the air supply if the power goes off. So far that hasn't happened, but the potential is there. Unfortunately it was a consequence of the rack and tanks being set up first - the rack was too close to the wall to fit the air supply around the blind that sits behind the tank. If I need to move this rack I will cut the PVC pipe and add inserts so the top 'rung' sits at the same height as the tanks.



Edited by fishmosy
  • Like 5

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

That's some nice installation work there @fishmosy

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks @NoGi

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • jayc
      No problem. Love helping others if I can. Report back in a week or so. You should test TDS every day around the same time, to keep a track of any changes.
    • Zenplay,thailand
    • supermansteve32
      Sounds good Jay. Thanks a lot I appreciate all of you
    • jayc
      It sounds about right for GH6 (6 drops is roughly 120 TDS). Those GH test kits are not the most accurate. And RO water reading of 3 is not unreasonable. I don't know why you would have been reading 240TDS last week and now it's a 100 points lower. I would suggest, not changing water parameter with a water change for a week, then see where it is at. Change if it gets close to 200 (say around 180-190). Let's give the tank some stability by not changing anything for a while.
    • supermansteve32
      I checked my TDS meter and it reads 3 on RO water and today my TDS in my tank is 133. I did a test with API and it took 6 drops so that's around 100 TDS.  I had 2 adolescents die overnight.  Should I only change water when it's over 200 TDS or should i continue with the 10% every week?  Thanks