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NoGi

New Library Article - Creating a New Library Article

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NoGi

Creating a new article is pretty easy. Go to the library section you would like the new article created and click on the "Add new article" button:

Add-new-article.png

Fill in all the sections and hit save. Your screen will look a little different to the screenshot below as some of the options you see here are only available to the mods.

Create-new-article.png

If you are writing the article in something else such as MS Word and pasting it in, it's best to save all the formatting for here. When you paste in the content, it's important to remove all the associated formatting. This is done to ensure that all the library articles remain consistent in look and feel. It also saves a lot of rework if the forum font/style ever changes. By sticking to the default forum font and style, articles will automatically be upgraded if there are any changes in the future.

Remove formatting.png

You can also select the text and use this button to clear the formatting if you are going back to edit an existing article:

Clear formatting.png


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  • Similar Content

    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      Creating a new article is pretty easy. Go to the library section you would like the new article created and click on the "Add new article" button:

      Fill in all the sections and hit save. Your screen will look a little different to the screenshot below as some of the options you see here are only available to the mods.

      If you are writing the article in something else such as MS Word and pasting it in, it's best to save all the formatting for here. When you paste in the content, it's important to remove all the associated formatting. This is done to ensure that all the library articles remain consistent in look and feel. It also saves a lot of rework if the forum font/style ever changes. By sticking to the default forum font and style, articles will automatically be upgraded if there are any changes in the future.

      You can also select the text and use this button to clear the formatting if you are going back to edit an existing article:

    • OzShrimp
      By OzShrimp
      I utilised this method when moving house last January. I have given this as advice on the forum previously a long time ago but not written as an article. Unfortunately i didn't take photos because i was moving house but i have obtained images of the main items required and done an image in paint to explain the holes. i hope this will suffice?.
      You will require:
      20 litre bucket with lid (Source from bunnings or masters) Sponge filter I recommend the ones which have suction caps and a minimum of two if you go for single sponge. Optimum at least 2 dual sponge filters Battery operated air pump. Air hose Drill or sharp pointed object. Excess plants (the more the better) pH buffering substrate. Preparation
      Step 1: Ensure your sponge filters are running on your existing tank for as long as possible to ensure you have beneficial bacteria culture growing on the filters. The longer they are running the better.
      Step 2: Take the lid from your bucket and make holes in the lid. The holes should be big enough for your air hose to fit through one of the holes and I did the extras to ensure new air was able to enter the bucket. Mine was done in a similar pattern to this

      Step 3: Add existent tank water to the bucket. I would recommend at least 3 quarters full as if you are unfortunate enough to suffer an ammonia spike etc (worst case) the more water the lower the impact in theory. Be mindful of how much you add due to holes in the lid, the more the water the more chance of spillage.
      Step 4: Add some of your existing substrate to the bottom of the bucket. I used benibachi for the ph buffering ability which had already been in my tank. I felt it would assist in reducing stress due to resembling the tank.
      Step 5: You want to add the sponge filters to the inside of the bucket and thread your air hose through the holes in the lid.
      Step 6: Add any plants you have available to your bucket. The aim of the plants is to assist the bacteria on the sponge filters in maintaining healthy water due to the small amount. I utilised needle leaf java fern and it also provides a food source for the shrimp.
      Step 7: Add your shrimp and turn on the sponge filters and replace the lid on the bucket.
      Step 8: Store the bucket out of direct sunlight during travel and storage at arriving destination to prevent major fluctuations in water temperature.
      I had approximately 5 CBS inclusive of shrimplets in a bucket utilising this method alive for close to two weeks. They survived 8 hour car trip and then about 12 days whilst my tank cycled being set up in the new house with temperatures averaging over 35 degrees a day.
      TIPS: Prepare your sponge filters in the tank and have them running for as long as possible prior to transfer.
      The later you leave your shrimp to be added to the bucket the better.
      Keep your bucket out of direct sunlight to avoid over heating and mass fluctuations in water temperature.
      Avoid over feeding your shrimp as you dont want an ammonia spike from left over food. Depending on amount of plants these should be sufficient to supply micro organisms to feed on the leaves.
      Battery air pumps are also able to be used in a black out so dont throw them away.

      View full article


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  • Posts

    • CurleyJones321
      Right so i've left the tanks and inhabitants for well this long simply because i dont want things to die off if i can help it and people have said leave it a month after establishing a tank before adding shrimp. Other than doing normal maintenance and transferring the 2 liters of old water from the small tank to the large each time and the large tank then getting an extra 2 liters of mineralised new water. Friday i sorted out all the tank decor in both tanks and adjusted the tank TDS to within 5TDS of each other. mainly because i needed to cull the flaoting plants which in the large tank the frogbit has taken over and in the small tank the water lettuce had almost taken over. the Duckweed has all but died out in both tanks not that i have done anything to aid it. my tanks now look like the attached. i then took readings they are as follows:-

      Small tank
      TDS - 232
      Temp - 23C
      PH - 7
      NH4 - Unreadable
      N03 - 1PPM
      N02 - 0.05PPM
      P04 - 2PPM
      dKH - 2
      dGH - 6

      Large Tank
      TDS - 237
      Temp - 24C
      PH - 5.5
      NH4 - Unreadable
      N03 - Unreadable
      N02 - Unreadable
      P04 - 1PPM
      dKH - 1
      dGH - 5

      So the Phosphate is up but thats because i was massively invasive in the tanks and churned up the fertaliser i have in the tank substrate. The PH is also what i would consider to be completely off

      also as a side note its worth mentioning that stressing plays out seems to stimulate them to give birth, i now have an extra at least 3 fry appear in the tank just after the works when the mothers had seemed to have stopped giving birth.

      i also got a new fish the in other breed of platy because the fish keeper at my LFS told me they could interbreed and it might make what im doing with the fish go faster, i got him today and named him Rodney and am about to add him to the Large Tank with Tyrone  before taking Tyrone out and putting more females in the tank with Rodney to let nature take its course. the Fish keeper did tell me to drip acclimate him however as the PH shock may be too much so that's what I'm currently doing and he's on his 2nd dip.

      that does make me wonder however can i now add shrimp to the tank or is the PH going to be a massive problem. i estimate i have between 60 and 100 shrimp in the small tank and want to transfer over say 10?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thanks for replying. I know what you mean about breeding, I started off with about 10 and was soon (couple of months) over 100, and  I am sure that would have kept going up if the tank could  have supported more??? I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work with bee shrimps if it is working so well for your cherry shrimp. Obviously the parameters are different but if you are managing to keep the cherry tanks stable I don't see why the bee would be any different, although they are a lot harder to keep! Worth a try though unless someone says otherwise? I shall certainly follow this with some interest. Simon 
    • Myola
      Hi Simon, NO, I wasn't using a buffering substrate previously in the neo tanks, it was just some white gravel that I had laying around. It had originally been in a fish tank some years ago, so it wasn't new when I put it into the neo tank. It started to break down just because of age, and my GH, and subsequently TDS, were rising out of control. JayC talked me through a rebuild with a bare floor. It has worked so well that when I set up more neo tanks I just made them bare as well. Like I said, I wouldn't go back. The little buggers are breeding like crazy, I have a very high baby survival rate and almost no deaths. Under my particular water conditions, it works great ... for neo caridinas. Now I want to do the same with caridinas, but not sure if there's more to a buffering substrate that I don't know about. Hopefully someone out there will be able to help me (and you) with the answers :)  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      A very good question and one I will follow with much interest as I had a similar question a year ago in that would I need to replace the substrate when it stopped buffering with my Taiwan bee tank if all the water I use has the right parameters. Unfortunately I don't know the answer in my case as my heater stuck on and killed all my shrimps off so I am starting again, though I still wonder about the same issue, though I should have at least a year before the new substrate stops buffering.  A lot of big breeding companies that have hundreds or thousands of shrimp (cherry and bee) in each tank (big tanks admittedly) use bare tanks (for obvious conveniences) so I am guessing it will be ok! Hopefully someone who has done it may get back to this thread, but otherwise I would give it a go with a few, especially if you have a spare small tank etc and see how it goes? If you used buffering substrate before but were using RO mineralised water of ideal PH did you have a problem once the substrate lost its buffering ability? I am/was hoping that the substrate buffering wasn't really needed if the water going into the tank is always around PH 5 or 6?  Simon
    • Myola
      So here's the thing. I've got 6 bare-bottom neo tanks that have been chugging along just fine for quite a while now. There are lots of babies and it's extremely rare to have any deaths, even when I add new shrimp.  I use remineralised rain water that has been filtered through an RO. I stopped using substrates in the tanks after I had ongoing issues with it breaking down, and to be honest, I wouldn't go back. Now I want to start some caridina tanks for tangerine tigers, CRS and blue bolts but want to know if I can get away with bare bottoms in them too. My RO filtered rain water comes out at pH 5, and when I add Salty Shrimp 'Bee shrimp' minerals to give me a GH of 5, the pH goes up to around 5.8. Do I really need the buffering affects of a substrate if my water is already within an acceptable range for caridinas? 
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