Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
GotCrabs

All In One Tank Suggestions For Betta Please

Recommended Posts

GotCrabs

Hi all, haven't really been on for awhile due to life's challenges that get thrown our way from time to time but have thought I would jump on and ask for some suggestions on the following.

My Mum has a bright red Betta that she adores and it's currently in a 12g that I use to keep all my shrimp in, well the Betta took care of them all and I'm in the process of making it back into a shrimp only tank with just Anubias on driftwood and Moss, so I am after some suggestions for an all in one nano set up for a Betta, I've looked on eBay and haven't found anything I really like or should I say trust that won't break as some look quite cheap and would like to buy her something decent that will do the job well, checked out the Fluval Chi but think the lighting is quite poor though, so think that's out of the question also.

Anyway, if anyone could give me some suggestions it would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GotCrabs

For those who are interested... I ended up buying a Aqua One Betta Villa Trio yesterday, the LFS only had that and the Betta Haven, felt the Haven was too small so went with the Trio, got it home and put it together and realised the sections weren't that much larger either, have now put the Betta in a separate tank and have pulled out the dividers in the Trio, will remove the silicon from the tank later today so that it's all one tank which would be more ideal so more room for the Betta to move around, can't say I'm a fan of these small Betta tanks, fish need room to swim, not look miserable and uninterested.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
NoGi

I'm not that familiar with Betta but do they swim around much in larger tanks or just float on along like a cruisy sunday?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
cate

That Betta would love a bigger tank. They can be pretty miserable in real small areas. I think the way most pet stores keep them, in a cup, is really inhumane. Give him the biggest size that is practical for you. Add a few plants if you can.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OzShrimp

If you put it in a tank which has reflection on the glass you may want to consider covering the sides in carboard or painting it etc. You will find the male will spend alot of time flaring out at the reflection postering which can lead to stress which then onto disease in rare cases.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
waffle

Betta are pretty intelligent and independent fish, so yeah I think removing the dividers is a good move to give it swimming room. Personally I'd not go with less than 20L, preferably 40L. Water quality is easier to maintain, too. They seem to love having a decent sized territory and plenty of stimulation so long as the water isn't too deep and the current isn't too strong (more of an issue for those with encumbering fins - those closer to wild form like plakats can swim well enough). Plenty of objects, plants, and some larger shrimp or other inverts is nice for keeping them stimulated, and regularly rearranging the scape seems to excite them a lot.

Example: My rescue betta had mobility problems due to fin structure issues but he still patrolled his territory, swam over and under everything he could find, and moved light weight stuff around by shoving it. He also enjoyed trolling the cherry shrimp culls by swimming into a mob of them on their food. He didn't like to eat their food or try to eat them - he just liked to watch them scatter if he swam into the group with his fins fluffed out. He'd then sit on the shrimp crack and wait for them to gather around again before flaring his fins to scare them. Can't say all bettas will be this placid to shrimp though!!!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GotCrabs

At this stage I have the Betta sitting in the Mr Aqua 12g Long, 90cm x 25cm x 25cm or something like that, so plenty of room to get around and the tank is full of Anubias nana and other Anubias on driftwood with Moss.

In two minds about making the Betta Villa Trio into a Crystal Red tank or making the Mr Aqua into a Crystal Red tank though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m going away for a few weeks and having a neighbour take care of my tank, as they are already gonna be caring for my cat during that period. I’ll be away for 2 and a half weeks, so not a huge amount of time, but the neighbour doesn’t have any experience with fish or shrimp tank maintenance.
      The tank will be fine without a water change during that time as long as I do one before I leave, I know that, but my 2 main problems are feeding and stopping my intake sponge from clogging up.
      For feeding I was considering getting a couple of pill boxes, like the ones that have seperate compartments for each day of the week, so I can set a certain amount for each day, and which foods.
      But for the intake sponge, I’m pretty stumped. My current intake is a sponge filter connected to the intake pipe, but it’s been clogging up once or twice a week due to how fine it is (and how messy my fish are). When it’s clogged, it puts strain on the canister filter’s motor, and that’s not good. I don’t trust her with cleaning it safely, plus I’m only paying her for 5 mins in the morning, and 5 at night. I’ve considered a mesh intake, but it looks like it could hurt a fish if it went past it quickly... plus I can’t check the size of the inside where the pipe could go as the only one I’ve found would have to be posted.
      Are there easy alternatives that I wouldn’t have to mod, or do intake sponges come in courser versions? (I haven’t checked).
       
      Any input would be appreciated!
       
    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m really wanting to get freshwater crabs, and the only ones I’ve found are A. Lacustris and A. Laevis. I can only put them in a 110 L community tank for now, but may have another option in the future. The tank is stocked with a large school of ember tetras, some rocket killies, some endlers, some tangerine tiger shrimp, and a pair of apistogrammas. Rare aqua advised that A. Lacustris would likely be eaten by the apistos, so the obvious choice would be A. Laevis, because they’re larger... right? But I’m worried that they might predate upon my shrimp, so wanted to hear some advice and opinions from more people with experience keeping these crabs.
      Cheers!
    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m really wanting to get freshwater crabs, and the only ones I’ve found are A. Lacustris and A. Laevis. I can only put them in a 110 L community tank for now, but may have another option in the future. The tank is stocked with a large school of ember tetras, some rocket killies, some endlers, some tangerine tiger shrimp, and a pair of apistogrammas. Rare aqua advised that A. Lacustris would likely be eaten by the apistos, so the obvious choice would be A. Laevis, because they’re larger... right? But I’m worried that they might predate upon my shrimp, so wanted to hear some advice and opinions from more people with experience keeping these crabs.
      Cheers!
    • bristlenose
      By bristlenose
      Hi, I've kept Red cherry shrimp for at least 3 years. I've never had a problem with them. I used to keep my shrimp in 500l tank but i got careless while buying plants and introduced planaria into my aquarium. I only noticed after the numbers got out of hand and i noticed the shrimp deaths adding up. I moved 200-300 shrimp into a standard 4ft tank planted aquarium and dosed with noplanaria along with melafix to ward off any bacterial infections. There were multiple dozens of shrimp shells all over after being moved. Initially i believed it may have been the planaria/bacterial/constant water changes/stress of new environment(i drip acclimated them for a 5 hours) that was killing them but i haven't changed the water in a 2 months but i still get the occasional death, 1 or 2 every few days. There are decent amounts of cuttlebone in the filter and also in the aquarium itself, and i also feed them the occasional powdered egg shells but i still get molting problems. Adults and also the month olds are dying, no discrimination. They're fed every other day shrimp snow, high protein discus granules and zucchini/pumpkin/spinach/dry seaweed every 3-4 days. I can see many berried females and small shrimp and also babies but i'm still losing shrimp constantly, easily 80+ in total. I don't want to buy a gh/kh test, they have never had any problems with molting in their last aquarium so can't quite understand why they're having problems now in the 150l. I've read so much online but i can't seem to find an answer, i'd sincerely appreciate any advice i can get. Thank you so much if you've managed to read all of this. Please feel free to ask any questions. The photo is from the current setup they're in.
      Previous tank parameters:
      Ammonia: 0 
      nitrite: 0 
      nitrates: 20ppm
      Ph: 8
      substrate: sand 
      Lighting: generic LED lights i got off ebay
      I don't know any other parameters.  cuttlebone in the tank and filter, no ferts, heavily infested with guppy grass. Large colony of bristlenose. 
      New tank parameters:
      ammonia: 0
      Nitrite: 0
      Nitrates:30-40ppm 
      co2: 3-4 bps 
      Ph: 6.5
      Lighting: generic LED lights i got off ebay
      substrate: ada aquasoil
      The new tank is heavily planted and dosed with root tabs and liquid ferts. Cuttlebone in the tank and filter. 6 large pieces of seiryu stone 17kg (i doubt they're authentic so they're some kind of limestone) Shrimp only tank
       

    • Seattleshrimp
      By Seattleshrimp
      Hi ! 
      I live in Seattle where the water is incredibly soft and I have a tap water pH of 6.7, GH of 0-1 and KH 2. My existing tank with plants already has buffered substrate. Would I have better chance of keeping CRS than RCS with my current water parameters ? Or would RCS do okay?    I do have an RO system already, and I could  remineralize my water with salty shrimp KH/GH+. Which would allow my GH and KH parameter to be okay for neocaridinas, but I already have a tank with active substrate. I’m 100% I don’t have space to set up another tank with inert substrate.    Would do you recommend ? What are pH you have successfully kept neocaridinas and have them thriving ?    Thanks ! I appreciate all the help as I am new to the hobby. 


  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      As you say it may just be the light that makes them look a bit black, the ones I thought I saw were all on the sponges which are black. Simon
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I'm pretty sure all the different colours of neocaridina shrimp are easy to care for! The only problem with mixing colours is them cross breeding which will speed up the reverting to wild or brown shrimps if they do cross breed. I say speed up as in my oldest tank I got a group of red  cherries 5 years ago and never had any others and they are mainly brown (75%) now. I have a densely planted tank and have been very lazy so have not removed/culled any browns ones over the years so at this point it would be very difficult to correct this without emptying the tank and starting again!!! Best to keep on top of it as you go. I would start off with just the one colour and get some experience with those first and come back to other/mixing colours a bit further down the line? With just 5 shrimps to start with you shouldn't need any food so see how it goes with them for a while before buying any. There will be more than enough biofilm in the tank for so few shrimps. If it all takes off and goes well then the 'complete' I would think should be sufficient when you have lots of shrimps though you should feed less than they recommend always? You can also use blanched ORGANIC peas and spinach and other plants etc which you can find out about on here? If you are going to use the CO2 then you will certainly have more luck with the lesser the CO2 I'm sure! If you can leave the CO2 off for a few weeks, that is what I would do, as you will then know whether the plants even need it AND it will be one less thing to eliminate IF you do start having problems with the shrimps? Good luck with getting the shrimps this weekend, drip acclimate for a couple of hours and ending up with at least 3 times as much tank water to the quantity of water they came in when you start off (or more). Don't panic if you lose the odd one in the first few weeks either, I always expect that to happen as they have been through a lot, breeder to shop and then shop to your tank etc and are more fragile than fish. Simon
    • jayc
      Thank goodness. You don't want to mix PRL with CBS. It's so hard getting Pure Red Lines as it is.  Keep up the good work.
    • DEL 707
      Thanks again. Going to do a big water change tomorrow then see how I go. Shrimp wise, there is a maidenhead aquatics near me that sell neocardina, so I was just going to use them to get 5 or so, to quite litterally test the waters. I've ordered a drip kit to help with acclimitising, I'm also going to turn the CO2 off, then slowly turn it on after a day or 2, to see how they do. When it comes to neocardina, is their care the same across the board, or are certain "colours" harder to care for? Would love a mix or reds and blues. Also food wise, what do you recommend? I was just looking at Shrimp King Complete.  
    • DNTM_Shrimp_Breeders
      Yes, I can confirm that rock / pebble rock / gravel will cause the pH to raise over time.  My RODI water comes out as around 6.8 according to my pH meter.  And I did follow the manufacturer's suggestion to wait 5-6 minutes when measuring RODI water because of the low ion.  After adding it to the tank, the pH becomes 7.2 -> 7.4.  The highest that I've recorded in my journal is 7.6 but it never goes higher than that. Here is my shrimp's diet: On M-W-F, I feed Bacter AE + Shrimp Baby.  On T-TH-S, I feed Shrimp Dinner. And on Sunday, I feed Shrimp King Protein to increase shrimp production.  Water change is once a month because I have a ton of floating plants to keep Nitrate low. @sdlTBfanUK It's probably because of the low quality image so it makes some of the PRL babies' color turn black 😁 But there are no CBS at all in this shrimp tank
×
×
  • Create New...