Jump to content

Brentwillmers
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi SKF members 

I have a question to ask for you seasoned shrimp veterans.  

I am planning to be away from my shrimp tanks for up to 3 weeks. I will have someone who can throw in some food every now and then but hasn't got the time or know how's of testing or water changes.

trying to plan ahead. This will be the first time I'm away for this long and starting to feel really uneasy about leaving them. 

I will have plenty of boss shrimp snow and barley pellets. Will also have RO water for top ups. Will do a water change before I leave and make sure I have enough water for a water change when I get back. 

What else should I or shouldn't do or prepare for. 

How can I ensure that the tanks will be stable for the time I'm away. 

Any info really appreciated. 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a bit of tank info
I have 3 X 26.5cm cube they have hob filtration, LED lights on timers. Heaters scorching oxydator mini's. Bits of mosses and ferns.
Tank 1) holding PRL's. water parameters are.
PH 6.4
GH 4
KH 1
NH3/4 0ppm
NO2/3 0ppm
TDS 112
Temp min 24 degrees.

Tank 2) fairly new 3 weeks since cycle completed holding CRS/CBS michlings.
PH 6.4
GH 4
KH 1
NH3/4 0ppm
NO2/3 0ppm
TDS 120
Temp min 24 degrees.

Tank 3) some PRL and BB
PH 6.8
GH 4
KH 1
NH3/4 0ppm
NO2/3 0ppm
TDS 80
Temp min 24 degrees.

All tanks have Alder cones and Indian almond leaves added.
RO water get re-mineralized with salty shrimp GH/KH





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Brent

As a general rule the biggest problem you will have is the shrimp sitter will over feed the shrimp and there will be a nitrate increase and algae outbreak.

Shrimp can and will survive on a lot less than we generally feed them so make sure the sitter is clear on the quantity to put in and to only feed, at the most 2 times a week. Also make it clear that sometimes shrimp die and they need to be removed asap to prevent a massive spike. They have to actually look in the tank regularly to check for this.

As there is going to be a nitrate increase without WC's while you are away reduce your light times before going to mitigate algae growth.

Things should be fine for that time period so dont worry about problems until they actually happen and have a stress free time away.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Madmev for the info.
I will make sure she got it when it comes to feeding and removal of dead shrimp.
Will change the timers on the lighting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brent,

One thing I've done when being away and having another person feed......unsure if they have medication boxes like this your way but was helpful to ensure that overfeeding did not occur.  I purchased one for each tank and only filled the days I wanted shrimp fed and only in the amounts I decided.  

s-l1000.jpg

Edited by Shrimple minded
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What an awesome idea. Will definitely do this.
Thanks Shrimple minded.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I have done the same as Shrimp Le minded but used a box that I bought from Kmart like a fish and tackle box (organiser) is what they sell it as and wrote the days for feeding on it simaler to the md box works great ???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

Hi Brent! Maybe you should find a reliable person who will look after your shrimp while away? Because no matter how well you set everything up, there may be a failure, and you need someone who will notice it in time. Besides, I wanted to ask you where exactly are you going? I recommend avoiding dangerous countries such as Uganda and others if on vacation. Really safe place, with a 90 safety index for everyone who goes on vacation, can be found in the USA and European countries. Think about it

Edited by doritadaskam
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Similar Content

    • Felenah
      By Felenah
      I have a ten gallon aquarium with bloody mary shrimp.  I have been using fluorite gravel and it keeps pushing up my GH and KH.  I am now changing 20% of my water every week in order to try and slowly adjust it.  My GH had been 15 and my KH about 10.  I now have it down to GH of 14 and a KH of about 7.  I have researched this on other sites and it seems that the Fluorite gravel will gradually stop leaching calcium.  I have also been reading that a KH of 8 and above can cause problems with neocardina secondary to their shells getting too hard and the resultant white circle of death.  My TDS can run anywhere from 230 or 240 after a water change up to 280  to 290 at the end of the week.  Ph is 7.5 and above.  I am no longer adding any supplements to the water.
      One more question.  I am using salty shrimp GH/KH premium aiming for a TDS of 100 after off gassing as the water I change with.  I am adding it slowly over 6 hours.  The distilled water has a ph of about 6.4 before I add the salty shrimp.  After I add the salty shrimp to a TDS of about 100 my ph increases to about 7.5.
      Suggestions?
    • NoGi
    • travellife
      By travellife
      I have a group of 18 shrimpettes that were born in my jarrarium which is roughly 1-1/2 gallons and planted with Anubias, Java Moss, Wisteria & Ludwigia.  The babies are 3-1/2 months old.  The water is not heated nor filtered, I have Aquasolum substrate and top off with Prime treated water as needed.
      The TDS is 88, the KH is 35.8ppm, the GH is 53.7ppm.  Nitrite/Nitrate/Ammonia are 0 every time I test, the regular pH is 7.6, high pH is 7.4
      I'm worried about the KH/GH, shouldn't it be a lot higher?  So far I haven't seen any failed molts and hope to keep it that way.  I'm looking at purchasing SL Aqua Blue Wizard to remineralize.  It looks like an easy product for a newbie such as myself.  Should I buy some organic spinach in the meantime and prepare that for them to help with their calcium/magnesium?  So far I've only fed them Marineland Color Enhancing Flakes which they love. 
      Google Album
    • Dimos
      By Dimos
      Hi all,
      Sorry to ask this, but I couldn't find a precise answer on the web. What would be the ideal water parameters for the Cherry Shrimp? (ph, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, GH, KH).
      Thanks,
      Dimos
    • jba6511
      By jba6511
      I am new to keeping shrimp and was hoping someone can help me sort through some issue with the water parameters of my tank. The tank is a 4.6 gallon cube, that runs between 72 - 74 (22.22 - 23.33) degrees, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrates and 0 nitrites. It has been cycled and running since December 2015 but about a month back converted to a shrimp tank (removed the fish, did a 100% water change and added sponge over filter). Current inhabitants are a nerite snail and 1 RCS.   I initially had 3 RCS, but lost two. I believe this was due to them trying to molt as they both had white lines on their back, but were fine the day before (one after 7 days and another after 12 days). I also have some java jerns, java moss, dwarf sags, crypt wendetti, and some floaters.
      Current water parameters:
      TDS: 166ppm
      GH: 1.7
      KH: 0
      My PH is also low (6 something if I recall but can measure this again if needed). I am using tap water that I add prime to that is then place in a rubbermaid with a powerhead until I need to do top offs / water changes.  So far all I have done is top off on the shrimp tank. My plan is to pick up some Salty Shrimp and add that to the tap water to raise GH and KH. I believe I should be shooting for a GH between 6-8 and KH of 2-5, with a TDS between 80 and 200. I also plan to add some iodine twice a week to try and address the molting issue.
      Does this seem reasonable? Any additional changes I should be making or consider? Once the water parameters are in order, I would like to add some additional RCS to the tank.
       
       
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • Subtlefly
      The duckweed can certainly be a pain!  I think the trade-off is that it is doing a great job mopping up all the nutrients
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Always great to get an update! Good to see the ember tetras and shrimp are doing well still. That duckweed is vile stuff (looks ok when only a small bit in an aquarium) and so difficult to get rid of once in an aquarium and over runs so quickly?
    • Subtlefly
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Some things will break down quicker than others, so leaves are usually blanched or cooked first so the shrimp can devour them easier, otherwise they may need a few days to soften a bit.
    • Aussie.Shrimp.Girl
      Thank you!  Haha love it! Interesting my guys went nuts for the nasturtium leaf and flower and left the spinach! 😄  I have my own big organic veggie garden, so they have lots of different things to enjoy in it! I have broad beans, Brussels sprouts, peas and snow peas coming. I wonder if they would enjoy those? I also have broccoli, cauliflower, kale, Cabbage, rainbow chard, silverbeet, spinach etc. We also have 3 big organic mulberry trees (white and red) and we have a huge number of herbs too. When I saw the Rosemary flowers I wondered will they get purple or blue poop?! Haha! I also have a big strawberry tower. I heard of people feeding strawberry tops...I wonder if they'll eat the leaf? I know guinea pigs love strawberry leaves. It's now kinda become a big fun science experiment! Haha!  Haha I didn't want to say about blue poop but that's why I asked cause I want to see if they get a blue or purple poop chute! Haha! 🤣🤣🤣 It's funny, right now there is orange species of poop floating around the tank! 🤣🤣🤣
×
×
  • Create New...