Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Matuva

Water test

Recommended Posts

Matuva

Hi all,

I have problem with my water test, especially for the GH. I have performed test with API and SERRA ones, but for each, I could not have any reading of the GH value of my water samples.

All other test KH, PH, NO² are OK, but after 25 drops, I still have the same color in the test tube. Anybody has success with these tests? At least I can have an idea with my band test...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

Your GH is probably very low.

Try looking down the test tube from the opening, rather than from the side after one drop.

You might be able to spot a slight colour change when viewing from the top.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
revolutionhope

I'm not sure@jayc i think@matuva might be describing an extremely high gh if the colour is not changing from the original colour?

Do you have a tds meter? They are not much more expensive than most liquid test kits are and we'll worth it. A good one will do temperature fairly accurately too which I find very handy for matching temps of waterchanges or acclimatising etc etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Matuva

Yup, this is what is weird with these tests: according to the band test - said to be not trustable - the GH is around 4-5.

I have TDS pens. In the local tank, TDS is around 80, in cherries tank, average 170. In both tank, I tried to test the GH with the 2 liquid tests, and the color never changed, from the 1st drop, and until I gave up after 25 drops.

I have another API GH test on the way, I will see what this 3rd one will tell...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Madmerv

If you think the Gh might be super low then double or triple the water volume. Instead of 5ml go 15ml of water and then use the drops. Each drop is 28ppm or something like that in 5ml so it would be 10ppm in 15ml.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc
11 hours ago, revolutionhope said:

might be describing an extremely high gh if the colour is not changing

Even after 25 drops?

More likely super low, and the change is too faint to notice.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Matuva

I was thinking that too, but the Serra GH liquid is green. It is supposed to turn red at the 1st drop, and then turn back to green once you reach the GH level. It turns immediately red at the 1st drop, and never turn to green then.
Serra say that if the GH is lower than 1, it will stay green.

For the API, it should turn from orange to green. But it stays orange....

For the 2 brands, the KH test works perfect.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Madmerv

I'm no expert but i find it hard to think you would have such a low TDS and a super high GH. Have you tried a LFS for a comparison? That is my go to before i purchase more of something i already have.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Matuva

I received my new API test today. It seems this one is working. Here is what I get:

  • Rain water : KH: 0; GH: 0; TDS 5
  • tap water: KH: 4; GH: 5, TDS 78
  • "Black & white" tank : KH: 2; GH: 1, TDS: 70
  • RCS & CRS tank KH: 3, GH : 10, TDS 184
  • Carbon Rili tank KH: 6, GH: 12, TDS: 230
  • Topaz tank KH: 6, GH: 8, TDS: 137
  • Red Rili, KH: 6, GH: 11, TDS: 176
  • Orange tank, KH: 6, GH: 9, TDS: 134

Does it seem to be normal values? I believe the higher is the TDS, the higher is the GH ?

Also, I think I should transfer the CRS to the "Black & white" tank, but the T° goes up to 27° in this tank, so, better to leave them where they are, as their actual tank stays around 24°?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
revolutionhope

Hey @matuva.That seems more like it!

Although I did notice that as 1 degree of KH or GH is approx 17ppm the reading for tap water, the topaz, red rili and the orange tank data is a bit mismatched somehow.


Will

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Madmerv

They look like the values i would expect. Well done.

Although there is a correlation between GH/KH and TDS i think it is more complicated than 1 to 17. Water chemistry is a science unto itself. Lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
revolutionhope
They look like the values i would expect. Well done.
Although there is a correlation between GH/KH and TDS i think it is more complicated than 1 to 17. Water chemistry is a science unto itself. Lol


I am really clueless with chemistry but I know it's possible for the gh or kh result to work out to almost 1 degree less than the total ppm. I also know it's possible for the gh and kh to not add up to the total ppm. I haven't heard of the gh and kh values exceeding the ppm by such a large amount before. I would love to understand these kind of things better..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jayc

GH measures the hardness of the water, whereas TDS measures the total dissolved solids in the water.

GH measurement gives you the approximate content of Calcium & Magnesium.

While TDS gives you the approximate content of Calcium & Magnesium, as well as other dissolved minerals, metals, organics, etc in the water.  So apart from Calcium and magnesium, what are some of these dissolved solids that the TDS meter is picking up? 

It will pick up minerals like Sodium, Potassium, nitrogen, phosphorous, sulphur, silicates as well as dissolved metals like Iron, Copper, Lead. It will also pick up Nitrates, and chemicals and pesticides that might be in the water, just to name a few.

So as you can see, GH measurements can reflect TDS measurements if all you have is Calcium and Magnesium. But reality is that you will have more than those minerals in your tank water. So the TDS measurement will usually be higher than the GH measurement, since the TDS meter is made to detect more. 

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  



  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Posts

    • Crabclaw
      That’s a cool idea! I would be interested in testing that out as well at some point. Let us know if you try it!
    • sdlTBfanUK
      We don't get the heat you do their but I am planning to get a cooler, a fan when we get to spring if the shrimps do well. I don't know whether that type of cooler is available where you are and it may not be powerful enough anyway. I will just put it on the tank when needed, but thats unlikely to be often here, and so  easy to set up. Obviously this isn't any good where you are based but I wanted to show an alternative to the chiller in case that suits? https://www.pro-shrimp.co.uk/aquarium-coolers/3100-jbl-cooler-200-aquarium-cooler-4014162604293.html?search_query=cooler&results=8  Believe me when I say you don't want to go through the heartache of cooked shrimps, I am still gutted 6 months later and the new lot will never be the same???? CO2 and shrimps is very risky and so I wouldn't use it, especially if it isn't needed and everything is ok? Simon
    • Lizzy
      Shame there aren't more active locals. I don't have one Simon. I've thought to buy one multiple times. A couple of reasons why I didn't: 1. CRS survived last summer. Tank got to 27-28 degrees some days when we weren't home and I never had any deaths. Not saying it won't happen in the future, but they appear to be hardier than I first thought. 2. My other half isn't keen on another canister filter to run a chiller, fearing leaks. Don't ask lol. I would've bought another Eheim 2213. I have one on my 30C and its perfect. On another note, I just bought a CO2Art Pro-SE regulator. Planning on running CO2 on the 30C. Still need to get a gas cylinder. I have limited cabinet space so I have to work out what will fit as I want the biggest cylinder I can get. I also need to figure out if I run an inline reactor or diffuser in the tank. Any suggestions? I believe inline is the most efficient, but I don't know of any drawbacks. Lizzy
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Great news and hopefully you SHOULD be ok as you have at least got the tank/water sorted before getting the shrimps! There are a lot of jaw dropping aquascapes out there on youtube but as  you have said it is so much more interesting to see movement/life in the tanks? Even in small quantities, it just adds so much more? The shrimps may well moult due to the changes in the water so don't panic if you see a 'Ghost' or 2! Were the shrimps big enough that you can tell whether they are male or female?  Also they may hide more than you expect, until they are 'comfortable' with their new home. Simon 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      When I used TAP water for my Betta the JBL soil I used (may not be available where you are though) exhausted its PH buffering in about 3 months, if that is any help - didn't take long! Incidentally, has anyone ever tried exhausting a soil substrate buffering by adding PH plus, before adding any occupants, I am assuming that will speed up the process. I may get some and give it a go as an experiment? next time I do an order????? Simon
×
×
  • Create New...