Jump to content

Some sick neons :(


DemonCat

Recommended Posts

HI all - Sorry, I wasn't sure where to post this on the forum. Please feel free to move to a better location if required. 

I have a few neons who have started to look a bit shabby. Neon Tetra Disease? Maybe fin rot?

I'd appreciate any confirmation/clarification. 

I assume I should keep  up water changes and start a treatment. Unfortunately I have no second tank to put them in!

IMG_20161009_203809.jpg

IMG_20161009_203815.jpg

IMG_20161009_203821.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It might not be NTD, since it's also on the tail. NTD is mainly on the body, discolouration and turning whitish. BUT if the fish is sick enough from NTD, it might manifest in other symptoms as well like finrot.

But your Neons look like they might have fungus.

Since you can't do anything to treat NTD, your only hope is that it is not NTD. And instead treat it for fungus / finrot and hope it gets better.

Finger crossed that it is only fungus.

What are your tank parameters?

Temp, pH, TDS.

 

 

 

Edited by jayc
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jayc said:

It might not be NTD, since it's also on the tail. NTD is mainly on the body, discolouration and turning whitish. BUT if the fish is sick enough from NTD, it might manifest in other symptoms as well like finrot.

But your Neons look like they might have fungus.

Since you can't do anything to treat NTD, your only hope is that it is not NTD. And instead treat it for fungus / finrot and hope it gets better.

Finger crossed that it is only fungus.

What are your tank parameters?

Temp, pH, TDS.

 

 

 

Hi jayc, 

Temp is a steady 22 degrees, pH is bang on. Unknown TDS

What do you suggest to treat a fungus? API Melafix or Blue Planet fungus care? I have seen those two in my LFS (I try to avoid it like the plague - it's a proper sad pet shop) which I can pop into after work. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, DemonCat said:

Temp is a steady 22 degrees, pH is bang on. Unknown TDS

What do you suggest to treat a fungus? API Melafix or Blue Planet fungus care?

Temperature at 22 is good. 

No to API Melafix. Melafix is not for fungal infections, it might agitate the infection even more.

Don't know about Blue Planet range, never used it. Let me read up on the ingredients ...

The Blue Planet Fungus Care uses the usual Acriflavin + Malachite Green combo. But the price !! Seriously? 

if there is nothing else in your sad LFS, then get it. But if you can find something similar, then pick the cheaper one. Anything with Acriflavin+ malachite green will do.

Or any meds with Formalin + Malachite green will also treat finrot/fungus.

Methylene Blue will also treat fungus, but is not as strong as Malachite green/Formalin.

I would pick up something that uses  Formalin + Malachite green, as that treats external parasites as well, covering ich and gill flukes. So it's a multi purpose med.

 

Interestingly, Waterlife Protozin will also do the job on fungus and also claims to cure Neon Tetra Disease. Even though everyone says there is no known cure for an infected fish. Again Waterlife is overpriced if you only bought it for fungus treatments only. You'd only buy this if you really had NTD and had no other alternative treatments to try.

<edit> - BTW I'm moving this to our Fish Health & Care section

http://shrimpkeepersforum.com/forum/forum/135-fish-health-care/

 

Edited by jayc
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great I will look at the  Acriflavin and/or Formalin + malachite green combos located in the store!!!

Thank you for the information. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fn@jayc - API pimafix? I grabbed that in the end as that's all they had fungus wise. I hope you may recommend it.

 

They had a no-name malachite formalin solution but it had no instructions or directions so I didn't get that.

Edited by DemonCat
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Have used the pimafix for two weeks now. 

 

Hasn't helped the issue, but hasn't made it much worse either. Fish still have the little marks on their bodies. Doesn't seem to be spreading, but hasn't cleared up either. 

 

Any suggestions on a next step? 

From what I can tell, it has not spread to the white clouds which is good I guess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 07/11/2016 at 11:21 AM, DemonCat said:

Any suggestions on a next step? 

Sorry for the late reply. Didn't see this question.

Well, you can try the malachite green/formalin treatment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/17/2016 at 9:09 AM, jayc said:

Sorry for the late reply. Didn't see this question.

Well, you can try the malachite green/formalin treatment.

Not a problem - They didnt make it :( My 6 white clouds and 5 healthy looking neons left in the tank - will wait a fair while before stocking it again. Will avoid neons in the future. 

Thanks for your help :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, DemonCat said:

They didnt make it

Ah sorry to hear the news.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      Update to say that after a few gravel vacs, front wall scrub, moss / floating plant trim, that the condition seems to have improved.  My current theory is that it is due to waste / debris management, where "stuff" like that brown mulm accumulates in the substrate and behind the HMF filters.  Maybe some tanks can somehow deal with it, but mine can't.  Also another experienced shrimper suggested that maybe those "shell bugs" don't just live on the shrimps but also in this debris.  Maybe this is the reason some tanks fail due to "old tank syndrome" where all they need is a good gravel vac? Also, I am guessing that plant trim helps too because now more of the nutrients and light go into growing algae instead of more plants? Well anyway for this tank I will try weekly water change and monthly gravel vac / plant trim.  For my next tank, I'm thinking of something like an under-gravel system where this mulm can fall down and I vac it out.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Good to have an update and good to hear you are getting shrimplets, so hopefully your colony will continue and you may not get to the point where you have to cull some to stop over population. These type of shrimp only live 12 - 18 months so the adult deaths may be natural? If you have the time I would do weekly 25% water changes, adding the new water via a drip system and do some vacuuming clean of the substrate each week, even if only a different bit each week! See if that helps in a few months and if it does then stick with that regime? It should help reduce any build-ups that may be occuring!
    • beanbag
      Hello again, much belated update: The tank still has "cycles" of 1-2 month "good streaks" where everybody seems to be doing well, and then a bad streak where the short antenna problem shows up again, and a shrimp dies once every few days.  I am not sure what causes things to go bad, but usually over the course of a few days I will start to see more shrimp quietly standing on the HMF filter, and so I know something is wrong.  Since I am not "doing anything" besides the regular 1-2 week water changes, I just assume that something bad is building up.  Here's a list of things that I've tried that are supposed to be "can't hurt" but didn't prevent the problem either: Dose every other day with Shrimp Fit (very small dose, and the shrimp seem to like it) Sotching Oxydator Seachem Purigen to keep the nitrates lower Keeping the pH below 5.5 with peat Things that I don't do often, so could possibly "reset" the tank back to a good streak, are gravel vac and plant trim, so maybe time to try those again. One other problem I used to have was that sometimes a shrimp would suddenly stop eating with a full or partially full digestive tract that doesn't clear out, and then the shrimp will die within a few days.  I suspected it was one of the foods in my rotation - Shrimp Nature Infection, which contains a bunch of herbal plant things.  I've had this in my food rotation for a few years now and generally didn't seem to cause problems, but I removed it from the rotation anyway.  I don't have a lot of adult Golden Bees at this point so I can't really tell if it worked or not. Overall the tank is not too bad - during the good streaks occasionally a shrimp will get berried and hatch babies with a 33-50% survival rate.  So while there are fewer adults now, there are also a bunch of babies roaming around.  I guess this tank will stagger on, but I really do need to take the time to start up a new tank.  (or figure out the problem)
    • jayc
      If that is the offspring, then the parents are unlikely to be PRL. I tend to agree with you. There are very few PRLs in Australia. And any that claim to be needs to show proof. PRL genes have to start as PRL. CRS that breed true after x generations doesn't turn it into a PRL. Neither can a Taiwan bee shrimp turn into a PRL despite how ever many generations. I've never seen a PRL with that sort of red colour. I have on Red Wines and Red Shadows - Taiwan bee shrimps. So somewhere down the line one of your shrimp might have been mixed with Taiwan bees and is no longer PRL. It just tanks one shrimp to mess up the genes of a whole colony. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry, missed this one somehow! The PRL look fantastic and the odd ones look part PRL and part Red wine/Red shadow in the colour. They are still very beautiful but ideally should be seperated to help keep the PRL clean if you can do that.  Nice clear photos!
×
×
  • Create New...