Jump to content

Any successful Ellobiopsidae Treatments?


Zoidburg

Recommended Posts

Tried doing a search, came across people mentioning a cure, but did not see recommended guidelines. Just wondering if I might be missing any possible treatments?

 

So far, I've seen people use...

  1. Tank Blackout
  2. Salt Baths/Salted Aquarium
  3. Paraguard
  4. Malachite Green/Formalin Products (Ick Attack, Maracyn 2, JBL Fungol, Sera Mycopur..)
  5. EM Erythromycin (heard of it)
  6. Kordon Herbal Ich Attack
  7. Personalized Treatment Plan
  8. Herbal Treatments (heard of it)
  9. ???

 

I don't have any shrimp who are infected, so I'm not asking for myself. I did have one shrimp that had the infection and was quarantined. Never made it out of quarantine, unfortunately. Someone else has at least 12 infected shrimp and they are trying products by Fritz (Mardel) to attempt a cure.

The best treatment I've heard of is a combination of malachite green (copper) and formalin (formaldehyde), which is not recommended for inverts. Formaldehyde may no longer be available after this year (at least not on the shelves), so other treatment options would be great!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've moved this topic to the Shrimp Health & Care section, as it is appropriate to this topic.

There is some discussion this thread I am maintaining.

More detailed discussion in this thread...

Unfortunately, Geoff's shrimp were too far infected and didn't make it through treatment.

 

The only treatment that I know of that has worked is medication with Formalin & Malachite green combo.

Some off the shelf products with Formalin that also includes malachite green include

  • Fritz Mardel QuICK Cure is one such product.
  • Aquasonic has one too.
  • Kordon Rid Ick Plus also uses the same ingredients.

Not sure about #6 Kordon Herbal Ich Attack, as we can't get that readily in Aus, but the rest won't work.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. I wasn't entirely sure the best place to put the thread.

 

I've seen both those threads that were mentioned, didn't find any information in it to add. I've come across much the same thing. Actually, thinking about it, I forgot to mention API Melafix and Pimafix. But, like you, the best success seems to come with the malachite green and formalin mix.

I don't know about Australia, but in the USA, products that contain formalin may no longer be on the shelves, thus making treatment that much more difficult. I'm hoping to find other treatments that don't require the use of formalin.

 

The black out method I've heard works best if done for a minimum of 2-3 weeks. Seems the best course of action, regardless of how it's treated, is to use a bare bottom tank with frequent water changes. The Kordon Herbal Ich Attack (does not contain malachite green, nor formalin), actually suggests not doing water changes until at least 3-4 days after the infection disappears... so that's treating the tank, daily, until it's gone. If the shrimp I was treating didn't die, I would have tried this product.

 

I'm not even sure if Aquasonic is available in the USA, but we do have plenty of products we can get.

 

 

I have some links to pages where treatment was successful using different methods, but I don't know if it's alright to post all the links, and I think some might end up getting blocked?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, Zoidburg said:

I have some links to pages where treatment was successful using different methods, but I don't know if it's alright to post all the links, and I think some might end up getting blocked?

Melafix and Pimafix don't work either, apparently.

I've not met anyone first hand that has cured it. Mostly, someone has heard of someone else type of stories.

If you send a PM to me with the links to those pages where people have documented successful treatment methods, it would be appreciated.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Someone had success curring his shrimp (from appearances so far) of this parasite. They used a hospital tote with paraguard, 1ml aquarium salt to liter of water and no light. They also fed some food made to help kill the parasite (made by a vendor who sells shrimp products, but the food itself is currently not for sale through the vendors site).


Started treatment around September 19th, didn't feed for at least 1 1/2 weeks, posted update on October 3rd of the disappearance of the parasite, but the shrimp is still in this hospital tank for at least another week to be sure it's gone.

 

Someone else swears by Potassium Permanganate as a 100% cure, stating that a University did a study, and it was part of a bigger study. Other people have also used PP to treat the parasite. I asked for references/info, person has refused to give any.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      Update to say that after a few gravel vacs, front wall scrub, moss / floating plant trim, that the condition seems to have improved.  My current theory is that it is due to waste / debris management, where "stuff" like that brown mulm accumulates in the substrate and behind the HMF filters.  Maybe some tanks can somehow deal with it, but mine can't.  Also another experienced shrimper suggested that maybe those "shell bugs" don't just live on the shrimps but also in this debris.  Maybe this is the reason some tanks fail due to "old tank syndrome" where all they need is a good gravel vac? Also, I am guessing that plant trim helps too because now more of the nutrients and light go into growing algae instead of more plants? Well anyway for this tank I will try weekly water change and monthly gravel vac / plant trim.  For my next tank, I'm thinking of something like an under-gravel system where this mulm can fall down and I vac it out.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Good to have an update and good to hear you are getting shrimplets, so hopefully your colony will continue and you may not get to the point where you have to cull some to stop over population. These type of shrimp only live 12 - 18 months so the adult deaths may be natural? If you have the time I would do weekly 25% water changes, adding the new water via a drip system and do some vacuuming clean of the substrate each week, even if only a different bit each week! See if that helps in a few months and if it does then stick with that regime? It should help reduce any build-ups that may be occuring!
    • beanbag
      Hello again, much belated update: The tank still has "cycles" of 1-2 month "good streaks" where everybody seems to be doing well, and then a bad streak where the short antenna problem shows up again, and a shrimp dies once every few days.  I am not sure what causes things to go bad, but usually over the course of a few days I will start to see more shrimp quietly standing on the HMF filter, and so I know something is wrong.  Since I am not "doing anything" besides the regular 1-2 week water changes, I just assume that something bad is building up.  Here's a list of things that I've tried that are supposed to be "can't hurt" but didn't prevent the problem either: Dose every other day with Shrimp Fit (very small dose, and the shrimp seem to like it) Sotching Oxydator Seachem Purigen to keep the nitrates lower Keeping the pH below 5.5 with peat Things that I don't do often, so could possibly "reset" the tank back to a good streak, are gravel vac and plant trim, so maybe time to try those again. One other problem I used to have was that sometimes a shrimp would suddenly stop eating with a full or partially full digestive tract that doesn't clear out, and then the shrimp will die within a few days.  I suspected it was one of the foods in my rotation - Shrimp Nature Infection, which contains a bunch of herbal plant things.  I've had this in my food rotation for a few years now and generally didn't seem to cause problems, but I removed it from the rotation anyway.  I don't have a lot of adult Golden Bees at this point so I can't really tell if it worked or not. Overall the tank is not too bad - during the good streaks occasionally a shrimp will get berried and hatch babies with a 33-50% survival rate.  So while there are fewer adults now, there are also a bunch of babies roaming around.  I guess this tank will stagger on, but I really do need to take the time to start up a new tank.  (or figure out the problem)
    • jayc
      If that is the offspring, then the parents are unlikely to be PRL. I tend to agree with you. There are very few PRLs in Australia. And any that claim to be needs to show proof. PRL genes have to start as PRL. CRS that breed true after x generations doesn't turn it into a PRL. Neither can a Taiwan bee shrimp turn into a PRL despite how ever many generations. I've never seen a PRL with that sort of red colour. I have on Red Wines and Red Shadows - Taiwan bee shrimps. So somewhere down the line one of your shrimp might have been mixed with Taiwan bees and is no longer PRL. It just tanks one shrimp to mess up the genes of a whole colony. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry, missed this one somehow! The PRL look fantastic and the odd ones look part PRL and part Red wine/Red shadow in the colour. They are still very beautiful but ideally should be seperated to help keep the PRL clean if you can do that.  Nice clear photos!
×
×
  • Create New...