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What LED light are you running?

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Shep

sorry

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Xander
jayc

@Xander, those lights look fine for shrimp. 

You should choose lights based on the type of plants you will have in the tank. 

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Madmerv

Just to add some info here.

Starting with shrimp related lights. We had an ISTA LED 26cm. It was cheap and acted like it. There was a constant hum coming from the light when on and the output was disappointing. Not a light i would recommend. It was soon replaced with a Chihiros A series 36cm. Good dimmable light that has a bright white (not soft yellow) and on a 25cm high tank needed to be run at about half power.

On my display 45x27x30h i have a no name 45cm LED with just 10 LED's in it. It came with the tank and looks to be about 5 yo. There is a much warmer white (yellowish)  and it will maintain the growth of carpet plants at 30cm. When i want to boost the carpet growth i also put on another 45cm Led from Ming-Kong industries that came with a tank i got second hand. It has about 120 much smaller LED's but as you might imagine has a pretty impressive output. Neither has a dimmer so i just light swap as needed.

There is a Zetlight mini LED with a pendant stand and 3 LED's. Not dimmable and sitting on my daughters 36cm Beta tank. This light was a bit more expensive and looks great. I think it would be perfect on a 25cm cube display tank. Only drawback is it's not dimmable so tank selection needs to be spot on for the plants to thrive.

On to bigger tanks that are not shrimp related.

Our 90x35x45h  planted tank was running T5's, that were a couple of years old. The carpet plants, MC and Mini Hair grass, were struggling so when the tubes gave up some MMLED tubes were installed. There is a 6800k XB2 with 90deg lenses for the carpet and a sunset/sunrise 120deg lens for the taller plants and fish colour. It is not as bright white, because of the colour LED's i would say, but the carpet is responding much better and the colour adjustment, program-ability and other control you have is great.

The outdoor 6 foot tank has 2 30w 6500k LED spotlights. 120deg lens. They are hanging on adjustable mounts and are about 15cm from the top of the tank. Because this tank is outside and gets plenty of reflected light they are really there for viewing purposes but during the winter months they throw out enough light to keep low light plants happy. If i was going to go for some more demanding plants then 3 to 4 of them would be needed.

Last is a 90x30x40H tetra tank. It had T8 tubes but they just gave out this week and i have ordered a MMLED Chihiros replacement. It is a new LED that MMLED is bringing out and is more of a budget line to compete with the Chinese Chihiros lights but with Aussie workmanship and MMLED's warranty. With shipping it is about 50% more expensive that the cheapest i could find but you have the ability to customize them on ordering and all the specs on the LED's is available so you know what you are getting. I went with the RGB style because there is no demanding plants in this tank and i wanted some colour to make the tetra's pop a bit. I was immediately emailed  by Fred and told that this light would not be as bright as an A series light so we will see what it looks like when it arrives.

In the next couple of nights i will take some photo's and put them up so the colours of each can be compared.

 

 

 

Edited by Madmerv
Double post

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kms

I use the fluval nano plant 3.0 with my 16L nano tank.

 

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  • Posts

    • CurleyJones321
      Right so i've left the tanks and inhabitants for well this long simply because i dont want things to die off if i can help it and people have said leave it a month after establishing a tank before adding shrimp. Other than doing normal maintenance and transferring the 2 liters of old water from the small tank to the large each time and the large tank then getting an extra 2 liters of mineralised new water. Friday i sorted out all the tank decor in both tanks and adjusted the tank TDS to within 5TDS of each other. mainly because i needed to cull the flaoting plants which in the large tank the frogbit has taken over and in the small tank the water lettuce had almost taken over. the Duckweed has all but died out in both tanks not that i have done anything to aid it. my tanks now look like the attached. i then took readings they are as follows:-

      Small tank
      TDS - 232
      Temp - 23C
      PH - 7
      NH4 - Unreadable
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      N02 - 0.05PPM
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      dGH - 6

      Large Tank
      TDS - 237
      Temp - 24C
      PH - 5.5
      NH4 - Unreadable
      N03 - Unreadable
      N02 - Unreadable
      P04 - 1PPM
      dKH - 1
      dGH - 5

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      also as a side note its worth mentioning that stressing plays out seems to stimulate them to give birth, i now have an extra at least 3 fry appear in the tank just after the works when the mothers had seemed to have stopped giving birth.

      i also got a new fish the in other breed of platy because the fish keeper at my LFS told me they could interbreed and it might make what im doing with the fish go faster, i got him today and named him Rodney and am about to add him to the Large Tank with Tyrone  before taking Tyrone out and putting more females in the tank with Rodney to let nature take its course. the Fish keeper did tell me to drip acclimate him however as the PH shock may be too much so that's what I'm currently doing and he's on his 2nd dip.

      that does make me wonder however can i now add shrimp to the tank or is the PH going to be a massive problem. i estimate i have between 60 and 100 shrimp in the small tank and want to transfer over say 10?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thanks for replying. I know what you mean about breeding, I started off with about 10 and was soon (couple of months) over 100, and  I am sure that would have kept going up if the tank could  have supported more??? I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work with bee shrimps if it is working so well for your cherry shrimp. Obviously the parameters are different but if you are managing to keep the cherry tanks stable I don't see why the bee would be any different, although they are a lot harder to keep! Worth a try though unless someone says otherwise? I shall certainly follow this with some interest. Simon 
    • Myola
      Hi Simon, NO, I wasn't using a buffering substrate previously in the neo tanks, it was just some white gravel that I had laying around. It had originally been in a fish tank some years ago, so it wasn't new when I put it into the neo tank. It started to break down just because of age, and my GH, and subsequently TDS, were rising out of control. JayC talked me through a rebuild with a bare floor. It has worked so well that when I set up more neo tanks I just made them bare as well. Like I said, I wouldn't go back. The little buggers are breeding like crazy, I have a very high baby survival rate and almost no deaths. Under my particular water conditions, it works great ... for neo caridinas. Now I want to do the same with caridinas, but not sure if there's more to a buffering substrate that I don't know about. Hopefully someone out there will be able to help me (and you) with the answers :)  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      A very good question and one I will follow with much interest as I had a similar question a year ago in that would I need to replace the substrate when it stopped buffering with my Taiwan bee tank if all the water I use has the right parameters. Unfortunately I don't know the answer in my case as my heater stuck on and killed all my shrimps off so I am starting again, though I still wonder about the same issue, though I should have at least a year before the new substrate stops buffering.  A lot of big breeding companies that have hundreds or thousands of shrimp (cherry and bee) in each tank (big tanks admittedly) use bare tanks (for obvious conveniences) so I am guessing it will be ok! Hopefully someone who has done it may get back to this thread, but otherwise I would give it a go with a few, especially if you have a spare small tank etc and see how it goes? If you used buffering substrate before but were using RO mineralised water of ideal PH did you have a problem once the substrate lost its buffering ability? I am/was hoping that the substrate buffering wasn't really needed if the water going into the tank is always around PH 5 or 6?  Simon
    • Myola
      So here's the thing. I've got 6 bare-bottom neo tanks that have been chugging along just fine for quite a while now. There are lots of babies and it's extremely rare to have any deaths, even when I add new shrimp.  I use remineralised rain water that has been filtered through an RO. I stopped using substrates in the tanks after I had ongoing issues with it breaking down, and to be honest, I wouldn't go back. Now I want to start some caridina tanks for tangerine tigers, CRS and blue bolts but want to know if I can get away with bare bottoms in them too. My RO filtered rain water comes out at pH 5, and when I add Salty Shrimp 'Bee shrimp' minerals to give me a GH of 5, the pH goes up to around 5.8. Do I really need the buffering affects of a substrate if my water is already within an acceptable range for caridinas? 
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