Jump to content

revolutionhope
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey SKF,

My snowball and my rcs colonies are perishing - succumbing to bacterial infection I believe. I moved house not very long ago and for some reason my YCS and CRS have taken it in stride, not lost any berries or shrimplets at all as far as I can tell. I'm not sure what has gone wrong with those other 2 colonies - I think it may relate to some of the cleaning process of the gravel/tanks or whatnot.

The RCS have a purplish/bluish section on their abdomen and the older ones are the first/quickest to give up but others are following, most have poor colour. They first became ill after being placed in a food-grade bucket I bought from bunnings (but probably didn't wash well enough.. who knows what was the reason as other shrimps did perfectly well in the exact same buckets)

My snowball colony was obtained a few months ago but were compromised by being placed in a tank of doom from the getgo, I never saw any saddles and 4 of the 20 I bought had died over that period. Since moving them to a new setup (with completely new filter/media, new gravel and tank) they have been dying 1 or 2 per day and I now have 5 or 6 left.

Due to time constraints I have failed to mitigate the illnesses in either of these 2 colonies and I'm going to bin the rest of them so I can focus on my other colonies and once they are thriving I will consider setting up other tanks again,

ANYWAY -  you win some and you lose some but I know my shrimp breeding hobby will bounce back stronger,

My future tanks will be setup much better given planning and time to do it properly.

I joined the forum after having accidentally bred thousands of mixed-grade RCS in a large 4 foot planted tank. I sold many of these very cheaply and thought "wow how cool I can pay for my aquarium hobby as I go!".

It took some months before I realised truly how fun shrimp breeding is. The process of selection/culling is so rewarding and despite lots of hiccups I have still made progress improving the quality of my shrimps.

I am especially proud of my YCS colony as I struggled and struggled when I first got them, barely managing to get them to reproduce but over the course of the year I now have "hardier" shrimps while keeping the same colour quality as I initally bought.

I look forward to sharing experiences and knowledge on SKF in the year to come.

I really want to thank all the members of SKF who have contributed over the course of 2015 to make this such a wonderful and helpful community I have learnt a lot.

I won't single anyone out for thanks but there are people here who go well out of their way to guide noobs like me through their shrimpkeeping difficulties and they deserve a big pat on the back.

I'd also like to thank the wonderful sponsors here. and a huge thankyou to Nogi for putting in so much time to manage the forums here!

Cheers SKF and may the forum continue to grow and thrive into the new year to come.

love n peace

will

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to here about your snowball and RCS colonies.

Usually CRS any to some extent YCS are the ones that are more sensitive and RCS are the hardier ones. So you must be doing something right for them at least.

Post up some close up pics of the RCS. Maybe we can ID the issue. If not, I could use some new pictures for the "Disease and Diagnostics" thread at the very least.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Almost missed this thread lucky I copy some threads to Facebook :5565bf0371061_D:

if you can post some pics it would be great, we can try and work out what's going on.

I haven't got any cherries at the moment otherwise would have sent you more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers nogi you rock.

You just gotta love the skf spirit it is such a positive community here.

I had two horrible days which were 42 and 43C respectively during which i experienced some airconditioner issues and i felt like i was not at all cut out for shrimp breeding.

I have persisted and with all the information that is accessible here I have kept my head above water and I'm feeling upbeat about the hobby. My CRS colony is doing very well I've had several batches of shrimplets in the last 2 weeks since i move and i think 3 newly berried ladies so I'm very pleased.

My ycs tank was languishing due to neglect prior to the move and there was only one saddled female in the whole colony! Now I can see 4 and their colour is great indicating they are happy little campers!

Thanks again to all for the advice and help to keep me going. Big thumbs up@fishmosy for all his advice re setting up my rack (i more or less copied his rack-it setup from his thread)

love n peace

will

tmp_708-20151230_201548-1723607750.jpg

tmp_708-20151230_20110945591263.jpg

tmp_708-20151230_201249-1269567078.jpg

tmp_708-20151230_201053828072346.jpg

Edited by revolutionhope
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Almost missed this thread lucky I copy some threads to Facebook :5565bf0371061_D:

if you can post some pics it would be great, we can try and work out what's going on.

I haven't got any cherries at the moment otherwise would have sent you more.

Sorry to skip this point - with regards to what's going on. I'm afraid to say it is a catastrophic meltdown.

I believe no recovery is possible unfortunately. If the genetics were unique I would give it my all but they're not ...

The snowballs are succumbing to a fairly straightforward bacterial infection so far as i know.

There's no obvious clue of anything and given their colour it is safe to assume that the varying "whiteness" i have seen is unpromising.

With regards to the RCS I'll try to get a good (with my phone) photo if and when I can. There is still one remaining mafure female with a blue/purple abdomen.

The rest just seem generally stressed and due to life. circumstances I'm beyond caring I'm sad to say ...

For now I've decided to focus my efforts on my ycs,dark cherries and bees until I feel ready for a new challenge.

I have got to tip my hat to those who continue to selectively breed their colonies for several years and sharing their efforts with others.

Several members here have sold me fantastic exotic shrimps over the past year and I hope they continue their great work !!!

love n peace

will

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Similar Content

    • Ginge
      By Ginge
      Hi everyone,
      Im super new to keeping shrimps. I’ve had a couple of cherry shrimps for about a week now and one of them has a strange white colouring on their back it appeared overnight/this morning and I’m not sure if I should be worried.
      Thanks,
      Ben

    • Shrimp Mania
      By Shrimp Mania
      In this video I'm going to show you a cool method of keeping two different neocaridina shrimp in one tank without mixing them. I show you how I separate small colony of yellow cherry shrimp from blue dream shrimp by using small breeding box.
      https://youtu.be/-DrVirbmZT0
    • Lovlea
      By Lovlea
      Hi new shrimp owner here. I’ve read and done lot of research. I’ve had them for only a short time before the 3 females I have became berried all at once. One is an orange and she has a full batch of yellow eggs. I have a clear, with red saddle and tail and a little yellow. She has a small 4 eggs batch (assuming because she’s new to the tank or a new mom) and then this beauty (as seen pictured. When I read about egg color they are yellow or green. Can someone tell me about these blue eggs? The male is all black. 


    • Macronano
      By Macronano
      Hi - I'm wondering if anyone can explain what went wrong with my shrimp tank!
      Although the parameters for ammonia, nitrate, nitrite were good in my small tank, the pH was high (8.2). This remained constant over a couple of months, so I thought it was ok. GH & KH were 6.
      Then a couple of weeks ago the red nose shrimp, them this week the cherry shrimp and finally the nerite snails, died. I couldn't figure out the problem. Then today I emptied the tank. It was up on a bookshelf so normally I can't smell the water. Today when I siphoned it out I could smell a very strong chemical smell and the taste (a quick sampling when I siphoned), was tangy. Not like the earthy smell and neutral taste of the other shrimp tank I have. 
      Any ideas what it could have been?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      By sdlTBfanUK
      Moderators City: Inner West, Sydney AU Interests: Shrimp, cars, fish, Computers, Cycling/Bikin Posted September 27, 2013 (edited) With the wealth of knowledge from experienced keepers here in SKF, we should have a repository of Shrimp Diseases where people can come to diagnose and hopefully find a cure to their shrimp's ailment.

      Just like in the world of aquatic fish keeping where identification and diagnosis of diseases in fish and known cures are part and parcel of every aquatic forum, so should we have one for shrimp.

      Vorticella

      I'd like to start this database off with the not so uncommon Vorticella parasite which looks like White fungus or mould growth on the shell of the shrimp.
      Vorticella is actually a protozoa of 16 known species, not a fungus at all. Vorticella are aquatic organisms, most commonly found in freshwater habitats. They attach themselves to plant detritus, rocks, algae, or animals (particularly crustaceans).
      Vorticella are heterotrophic organsims. They prey on bacteria. Vorticella use their cilia to create a current of water (vortex) to direct food towards its mouth.
      Typically, Vorticella reproduce via binary fission. The new organism splits from the parent and swims until it can find something on which to anchor itself.

      If left untreated, vorticella have been known to cause the death of the shrimp it was attached to.

      Here are examples of what it looks like.
       

       

       


      Known cures: Salt bath with aquarium salts. Be careful not to use table salt with Iodine.
      Dosage: 1 teaspoon to 1 cup of clean tank water (not tap water).
      Duration: 30sec to 1 minute. You might need to repeat this a couple of times until the vorticella disappears, so keep the infected shrimp in a breeder or hospital tank (could be another cup of tank water).
      Possible causes: Poor water conditions. Increase water change frequency.

      Low doses of the salt bath have been know to be ineffective.
      Ick and fungus cure meds don't work on Vorticella.
      Seachem Paraguard could work as well at the full recommended dosage, since this is a parasitic med. But Seachem have admitted Paraguard isn't invertebrate safe. So only try paraguard as a last resort and drip it into the tank premixed from a bucket of tank water slowly .

      This treatment is in no way a replacement for good tank husbandry.
      So keep up with your water change routines, and removal debris and uneaten food.

      Please add if you know of more diseases, how you cured it, what you tried that worked and what didn't work.

      Cheers.
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      You may end up losing this batch entirely but then you can start completely fresh and get the aquarium set up right for the next batch of shrimp! If you do any large water changes then try and add the new water slowly, either dripper or some other way. You should get yourself a TDS meter (as JayC above), they are cheap and readily available. You should always use a GH tester kit as well with shrimps, if you do the 50% water change that should halve the GH so you should get a reading after that, or if you can get a local fish store to test it for you that will give you an idea of the GH. If your water supply is as hard as it appears it may be you will need to mull over how (or even IF) you want to keep shrimps as that may mean using RO or distilled/bottled water and buying a proper shrimp specific remineraliser? That will be quite expensive but you won't then have to mess about adding crushed coral/eggshells etc, but only you can decide whether you want to do/spend that much etc? If you live somewhere that gets a lot of rain, then you can use rain water? Also, as JayC states, you need to know what you are using/adding to the water and aquarium, ie fertilizers, rocks. Unless you have very exotic plants you shouldn't need any fertilizers. Just as a note, we have come across quite a few experienced fish keeprs that have this sort of start off issues with shrimp. Shrimp are more difficult than fish, and the aquarium and water etc need to be ready and within the required parameters before getting the shrimps. Usually people jump in, get the shrimps before everything is ready/sorted. Hopefully though you will keep at it, or if this lot die you will have another go and we can help you get it sorted?
    • jayc
      These are all classic symptoms of shrimp moulting problems.   Again, another high GH symptom. High GH not only causes harder carapace (shell), but it also makes eggs harder. When the egg is harder the male finds it more difficult to fertilise the eggs.   That's a worry if you can't get a good GH reading because that is going to be most likely issue right now for you.   Because snails don't moult.    If you dont already have a TDS meter, I suggest getting one asap. It's another test to narrow down your water parameters, and not have to trust one test by it's own - in this case the GH test kit. I would wager your water parameter is too high in dissolved minerals - likely from the tap water source, fertiliser dosing and/or any rocks/crushed corals you might have in the tank. To remedy this, you need to start doing water changes with RO, distilled or rain water immediately. I would do a 50% water change with RO water asap. Then look for sources that increase GH in the tank and eliminate it - fertilisers, rocks, crush corals, shells.    It's difficult to save a shrimp who's carapace is already too hard, but hopefully any younger shrimps will benefit from the water change and the reduced GH.   Good luck and keep us updated.
    • professionalshrimphugger
      United States. I have tested my tap water; it yields the same results. GH: ??, KH: 3, pH: 7.8. I cannot say for sure if my GH test is faulty or not, the expiration is until 2023. It's more of a twitching, then stasis. I have one shrimp that's having a hard time balancing itself, but it's swimmerets and mouth keep moving in attempt in getting back up. I allowed it to stick to my sponge filter. The tank is cycled. I used established media. Readings would not show 0 otherwise. I do use EI Dosing, half dosage recommended for a 20 gallon. It has been said on other forums that it does not affect shrimp, but I stopped dosing to isolate variables a week ago. No CO2, that's too costly for me, hah. I drip acclimated the shrimp for 2 hours, 1 drop per second. I tested for copper in my tank, nothing. Funnily enough, my mystery snails in my community tank don't seem too affected by it.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry to hear you are having a problem! Where are you based in the world? Can you test your tapwater GH/KH/PH? Best to know what the source water is, dechlorinated (if required) before you have ADDED anything. Are you sure the GH test is working and not old, or already activated/contaminated somehow? The other parameters seem ok! If the GH is as ridiculousy high as you say then I expect the shrimps would have problems molting (they may be twitching to get out of the old shell), though generally twitchy behaviour is usually down to some sort of toxic poisoning or the aquarium not being properly cycled? Are you using any plant fertiser or CO2?  Did you drip acclimate the shrimp over many hours before adding them to the aquarium? They are much more sensitive than fish to changes in water parameters etc. You could end up killing more of them by moving them so I would hold off from that at the moment!  
    • professionalshrimphugger
      Hello all, I am new to the forum, although experienced at fishkeeping, I am relatively new to shrimpkeeping. Let's start with my issue. I had started a colony of 18 juvenile cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) in a 20 gallon long as of last month. I solely use tap water and change 5% per week. They are the only inhabitants alongside a single juvenile Malaysian trumpet snail. Today the numbers have been reduced to 9. The deaths did not start until the shrimp turned into adults, where they have struggled, twitching as if provoked, becoming lethargic, and eventually flipping over to their side and dying. Only the ones on the verge of death exhibit this behavior, whereas the rest simply graze on as usual. I measured my parameters today - my tank has been established for two months as of now and is densely planted. They have never bred despite being of adult size and having visible saddles. Never an issue with molting. Ammonia: 0 ppm, Nitrite: 0 ppm, Nitrate: 0-5 ppm || pH: 7.8, GH: ??, KH: 3 I cannot get a single good read off API's liquid GH test. I have dropped beyond 30+ and gave up as I knew the numbers were already extreme. The thing is, I need a temporary, inexpensive solution to keep my shrimp safe. I believe by the time I order supplies, the colony would already give. I was planning on moving the colony to a 5.5g, barren with my floating plants and mosses, using just distilled water, Seachem Equilibrium (only GH additive I own) and crushed eggshells (potential source of KH). Possibly crushed coral to substitute for the lack of any real mineral additive. I did not believe that high GH would possibly become a problem, and I am fortunate that the strugglers are still alive. If anyone has a solution to this problem, or approve of my plan of action, please let me know. TIA
×
×
  • Create New...