Jump to content

Transferring shrimplets to another tank


doctr-dan

Recommended Posts

Really depends on several factors, but always best to avoid. If the tank is well established (amble biofilm), stable WP, similar WP (Ph & TDS), and the transition isn't stressful (i.e. dont just net it out and transfer them), but place a container in the tank, net the shrimplets slowly into the container (whilst in the water), then do the transfer...it should all theoritically be OK, but again, best to avoid it. Week old shrimplets would not have established all their immunity yet, so any sudden changes will affect them. Do expect some losses though..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agree with BB. Shrimplets are sensitive as they moult often. I would leave them in the current tank until they get past 6-8 weeks old at least. Survival rates will be even lower if you do changes too much.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I heard from one of the top CRS breeders that they actually found it easier to move the shrimp within a day of hatching than in the month or so after this.

It seems that when they are newly hatched they are less sensitive to change in parameters.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I heard from one of the top CRS breeders that they actually found it easier to move the shrimp within a day of hatching than in the month or so after this.

It seems that when they are newly hatched they are less sensitive to change in parameters.

Maybe Doc can tell us :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've found even water changes over 10-15% can make Shrimplets numbers dwindle.

I'd imagine changing tanks would be similar, I mean the more similar and stable the two tanks are the better but it's still a change. That on top of stress.

With that being said I'm taking comparisons of water changes and tank changes obviously. I've never personally put shrimplets into new tanks so I couldn't tell you from experience.

Just wanted to throw in my 2c ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if the new tank which you are shifting the shrimplets are stable/matured with no issues.. there should not be a problem... i have siphon shrimplets of less then a week into another tank of a totally different filtration and they are able to survive... (dont try this at home unless you are confident and not worry of casualty)

but i dont think you should try that and just let them grow a little bit bigger before doing that.. my rough gauge of a stable juvenile will be at about 0.5cm size.. once my KK, BB, WR have reached that size, they are considered very stable and I will start to do selection on their patterns...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah! what they said! I'd go for the day old technique and go from there cause they're the easiest to syphon... saying this I have had no problems with cherrys... lol.

Just try out and see how strong the shrimplets are. Doing this will probably test the over all health of the colony and your systems.

f4f

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Join Our Community!

    Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Posts

    • beanbag
      Update to say that after a few gravel vacs, front wall scrub, moss / floating plant trim, that the condition seems to have improved.  My current theory is that it is due to waste / debris management, where "stuff" like that brown mulm accumulates in the substrate and behind the HMF filters.  Maybe some tanks can somehow deal with it, but mine can't.  Also another experienced shrimper suggested that maybe those "shell bugs" don't just live on the shrimps but also in this debris.  Maybe this is the reason some tanks fail due to "old tank syndrome" where all they need is a good gravel vac? Also, I am guessing that plant trim helps too because now more of the nutrients and light go into growing algae instead of more plants? Well anyway for this tank I will try weekly water change and monthly gravel vac / plant trim.  For my next tank, I'm thinking of something like an under-gravel system where this mulm can fall down and I vac it out.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Good to have an update and good to hear you are getting shrimplets, so hopefully your colony will continue and you may not get to the point where you have to cull some to stop over population. These type of shrimp only live 12 - 18 months so the adult deaths may be natural? If you have the time I would do weekly 25% water changes, adding the new water via a drip system and do some vacuuming clean of the substrate each week, even if only a different bit each week! See if that helps in a few months and if it does then stick with that regime? It should help reduce any build-ups that may be occuring!
    • beanbag
      Hello again, much belated update: The tank still has "cycles" of 1-2 month "good streaks" where everybody seems to be doing well, and then a bad streak where the short antenna problem shows up again, and a shrimp dies once every few days.  I am not sure what causes things to go bad, but usually over the course of a few days I will start to see more shrimp quietly standing on the HMF filter, and so I know something is wrong.  Since I am not "doing anything" besides the regular 1-2 week water changes, I just assume that something bad is building up.  Here's a list of things that I've tried that are supposed to be "can't hurt" but didn't prevent the problem either: Dose every other day with Shrimp Fit (very small dose, and the shrimp seem to like it) Sotching Oxydator Seachem Purigen to keep the nitrates lower Keeping the pH below 5.5 with peat Things that I don't do often, so could possibly "reset" the tank back to a good streak, are gravel vac and plant trim, so maybe time to try those again. One other problem I used to have was that sometimes a shrimp would suddenly stop eating with a full or partially full digestive tract that doesn't clear out, and then the shrimp will die within a few days.  I suspected it was one of the foods in my rotation - Shrimp Nature Infection, which contains a bunch of herbal plant things.  I've had this in my food rotation for a few years now and generally didn't seem to cause problems, but I removed it from the rotation anyway.  I don't have a lot of adult Golden Bees at this point so I can't really tell if it worked or not. Overall the tank is not too bad - during the good streaks occasionally a shrimp will get berried and hatch babies with a 33-50% survival rate.  So while there are fewer adults now, there are also a bunch of babies roaming around.  I guess this tank will stagger on, but I really do need to take the time to start up a new tank.  (or figure out the problem)
    • jayc
      If that is the offspring, then the parents are unlikely to be PRL. I tend to agree with you. There are very few PRLs in Australia. And any that claim to be needs to show proof. PRL genes have to start as PRL. CRS that breed true after x generations doesn't turn it into a PRL. Neither can a Taiwan bee shrimp turn into a PRL despite how ever many generations. I've never seen a PRL with that sort of red colour. I have on Red Wines and Red Shadows - Taiwan bee shrimps. So somewhere down the line one of your shrimp might have been mixed with Taiwan bees and is no longer PRL. It just tanks one shrimp to mess up the genes of a whole colony. 
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Sorry, missed this one somehow! The PRL look fantastic and the odd ones look part PRL and part Red wine/Red shadow in the colour. They are still very beautiful but ideally should be seperated to help keep the PRL clean if you can do that.  Nice clear photos!
×
×
  • Create New...