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    • Damien Dyer
      By Damien Dyer
      Hi I signed up awhile back but this is my first post so I hope I'm in the right section. I've been keeping crs/cbs for a couple of years now, starting with a dozen and now have approx 200. I have a large 200lt tank and use fluval stratum. My parameters have always been pretty steady, tds 130-150,  ph 6.7-6.8, GH 3-4 and KH 1-2 and have had great sucess but over the last few months my KH is reading zero and the PH has gone from 6.8 to 5.9!! All shrimp are still doing well and no noticeable deaths but the ph drop is concerning. Is this directly related to zero KH? (No buffering) Any advice on the cause and any action that I should take would be very much appreciated. Thank you 
    • macjeff
      By macjeff
      I have had a 20 gallon RCS tank for 3 years now.  I have moss balls and some JAVA moss, drift wood, and mineral rocks.
      Only RCS in the tank and some soft shell snails I have in there I breed for my fresh water puffer fish in another tank,.
      My issue is that the shrimp live 1-2 years and they breed just fine but I never see babies.  I see plenty of eggs but never babies.  (Well 1 or 2 a month maybe but they disappear)
      The adults keep going just fine until they die off of old age or something else.
      I keep about 100 shrimp in the tank and have to replenish 50 every 6 months about.
      Water Temp I keep about neutral. 
      PH- 7- 7.2
      I use distilled water or sometimes Reverse Osmosis water because our tap water goes through a water softener which puts a LOT of salt in it which makes TDS very high so I try not to use tap water at all.   
      I feed every 2 days with Azoo or other good food and not much.  Its all gone by the time I feed again.
      I do add some powder food for the babies and a shrimp bacteria powder (just started that about 6 months ago but has not helped or hurt)
      Someone told me due to the distilled water my issue is LOW TDS.  So I bought TWO different meters.  I tested the distilled water and its about zero which is correct.  I then tested my water and its about 700.   I do top offs and just did a 20% water change last weekend with distilled water.
      So is that the issue?  Should I pull out the mineral rocks?
      I am thinking tonight to take about 8 gallons of water and drain the tank down about 40% and then fill with the distilled water.   I can repeat the process in a week and once I get the TDS under 150 I can add a little shrimp mineral to get it to the 200 range.   The reason I am saying that is the TDS could be bad TDS and not the minerals they needs.  I ordered some Salty Shrimp Mineral which I heard was good.
      Should I just give up?
       
      Jeff
    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      One of our sponsors, @Filter Systems Australia are seeking an expression of interest regarding a range of filter media they are considering carrying. If interested post here. Current prices are as follows:
      Mafian Stone: $15/Kg Tourmaline: $25/Kg Neg ion: $30/Kg FAR : $25/Kg But this will change (go lower) subject to demand and our SKF discount.

    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      Source: http://www.fsahome.org/uploads/4/8/5/9/4859831/gt1-70_di_brochure.pdf
    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      Source: http://www.fsahome.org/uploads/4/8/5/9/4859831/gt1-70_di_brochure.pdf

      View full article


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    • kms
      Mine is a DIY Chiller, as you know a peltier has a hot side and cold side, for the cold side to stay cold, the hot side must be kept cold and with a heatsink and fan to cool it down. My DIY chiller has two sides and two water block. blue aluminum block with tube leading to the outlet of the canister filter and back to the tank to chill the tank water. copper block is to cool the hot side of the peltier, with copper block to the radiator/fan and a water pump looping. The problem is the tube from the water pump came off, apparently the plastic from the pump started to melt and the tube came off and the looping side had no water, so the copper water block stayed hot all the time with heat transferred to the cold side of the peltier also heating the water. since the copper takes time to cool down, most of the heat and the room hot temp had already heat the tank water to about 45 C.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Try testing it again and see what you get or to confirm that the previous were right, especially the higher Ph reading is all I can recommend! If there is some explanation for the difference hopefully someone will reply and let you know, but I expect there won't actually be a difference if you do it again? Simon
    • jayc
      No that's not normal. But I don't know which tube in your loop had come off. Can you show us?   Yes that would have helped a bit, and at least give KMS more time to have found the issue by turning off the chiller. As I understand, kms has a peltier style chiller, and a tube of the pump had come off, which meant that hot water from the hot side of the peltier flowed back into the tank. So if the chiller was on the same temp controller, it would have turned off the chiller at around 26degC. The tank might have got warmer in his room, but it would have been at a much slower rate, and certainly would not have reached 45degC.
    • kvinnyy
      I'm using the API master test kit with the dropper bottles. I was just very confused at how much more akaline the water was coming out of the filter compared to the water out in the open. I can't imagine how this fluctuating change in pH is going to be beneficial for my crs.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      What type of test are you doing strip or drip? I use drip tests and always ignore the first attempt as no matter how well I clean and keep the test set it is often way out of line. Las time first test was Ph8, second test Ph6. Sometimes first attempt looks ok so I have no idea what is going on????? If you just tried once it may be worth testing again? Simon
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