I was inspired to make the stainless steel immersion tubes found in the following thread:
I made mine with the following materials
- x metres of annealed seamless stainless steel tube grade 316. Outer Diameter 12.7mm, Wall Thickness 0.9mm, ASTM 269. I got mine from Midway Metals in Sydney for $5 per metre.
- A hand bender, rated to bend thin walled stainless steel. Got one from ebay for $99.
- A tube cutter, again make sure it will cut thin wall stainless steel. I got mine from ebay for $32.
For 60cm tanks I recommend 3 metres of tubing
For 30cm tanks I recommend 2 metres of tubing
Your hand bender will have an inherent bend radius, using this you can calculate the length of tube that you will use up with each bend whether it be 90 degrees or 180 degrees and pretty much how much tube you will need depending on your design.
NOTES: I used 12.7mm tubing as you can then squeeze 12/16mm aquarium hosing on to it snugly (if you are paranoid use hose clamps as well). I also used 12.7mm OD tubing as its the maximum diameter you can get a hand bender for that is rated to bend stainless steel. Do not get thicker than 1.0mm walled stainless steel it will be a nightmare to bend. Make sure your stainless steel is annealed seamless tube this is specifically made for severe manipulation. This is for freshwater application only... the guys at midway said this would last 3 months in a saltwater tank lol. Good hand benders are each made for one specific diameter only, make sure you get the right one for your tube diameter.
I am happy to post links to the ebay items if I'm allowed to.
I'm pairing this with an Eheim 2213 and a Resun cl 200 chiller to chill 2 x 60cm tanks and ultimately 3 x 60cm, I'll update once this is done and give some feedback on the temp differences. I hope the info is useful.
A few months ago, I lost a lot of shrimps due to high temperature (around 32°C).
So I decided to make an aquarium chiller for my nano (20L).
My requirements were :
- Able to reduce by 5-7°C a 20L aquarium
- Economic electrically
- Part of the canister filtration system (no visual inconvenience)
- Not pricey (under 100$)
- Shrimp compatible (no copper used)
Becarefull : Aluminium is used to "exchange" the heat. It can be toxic if used in pH below 5.3
During my initial research, I found this interesting article :
I changed the peltier module used, here are the calculation :
For a 400W Peltier, if I have 4.9V in input, and the local temperature is 32°C, the temperature of my 20L aquarium should be 24°C for 40W used.
Here are all the needed parts :
- Peltier module : TEC1-12726 (50x50mm 400W) around 20$US
- Aluminium Water cooling block (76x68x8mm)
I prefer this one over the classic 50mm one because it's bigger so better thermal exchange
- 12V 240W Power supply (transform AC to DC)
- 100W LED driver (0.8-28V output) (adjust the tension on the peltier module)
- 2 Fan speed controllers (3A DC-DC step down converter)
- 12V Thermostat (the chiller is working only when it needs to)
- Heat sink (Noctua NH-D14)
Based on http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2789&page=4 , this heat sink is perfect
- A 50x50mm copper sheet to make the connection between the heat sink and peltier module. The peltier is bigger than the heat sink base, so I thought it's better to have this sheet to reduce the heat of the Peltier
- 6mm silicon pipe (it's the diameter of the water cooling block)
- 6=>12 water pipe coupler
- Thermal paste
- Electrical cable
All the parts together :
The total cost is around 100$US (greatly depends on the heat sink, i bought mine 2nd hand)
The final build :
Just started to make some test, it's working perfectly!
The only drawback is that it reduce the outflow of my canister filter.
If you have any questions :)
I am in need some advice, I've no experience with plumbing whatsoever (with the exception of using canister filters with chillers if that counts) so please bear with me if my questions seem silly or obvious!
I came across 2 cheap 4 foot tanks with holes drilled already in the base of them that I am hoping to use. There are only a couple of minor scratches here and there and the only damage is on a back corner where the bezel is chipped - I intend to silicone this inside and out to be safe.
Anyway I have a few points that I'd really love help to address.
- How best to plumb these 2 sitting at the same height and integrate a sump.
- Is it feasible to use 2 eheim canisters with a my chiller connected to a sump? When I only ran one canister the flowrate was not quite enough and the chiller was turning on and off too frequently as a result. Do I have to just bite the bullet and fork out money on a pump instead?
- Opinions on how best to divide the setup into several bays for different colonies. Currently I am looking at following Paul Minett's lead using tropical flyscreen which has less than 0.4mm aperture but he has told me there is still the occasional fugitive baby.
Thanks in advance, once I actually start doing anything on this setup I will post the progress in a journal here. Once again NB I am totally clueless so I'd appreciate it if you could dumb down your suggestions for me :-)
Love and peace
With summer around the corner, what is the best way to add a chiller to a simple tank where there's only a sponge/hob filter in place? Apart from adding a canister/internal pump is there a neater way?
Thanks in advance
might interest all DIY. Enjoy! : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5s8Cu59-NM