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    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m going away for a few weeks and having a neighbour take care of my tank, as they are already gonna be caring for my cat during that period. I’ll be away for 2 and a half weeks, so not a huge amount of time, but the neighbour doesn’t have any experience with fish or shrimp tank maintenance.
      The tank will be fine without a water change during that time as long as I do one before I leave, I know that, but my 2 main problems are feeding and stopping my intake sponge from clogging up.
      For feeding I was considering getting a couple of pill boxes, like the ones that have seperate compartments for each day of the week, so I can set a certain amount for each day, and which foods.
      But for the intake sponge, I’m pretty stumped. My current intake is a sponge filter connected to the intake pipe, but it’s been clogging up once or twice a week due to how fine it is (and how messy my fish are). When it’s clogged, it puts strain on the canister filter’s motor, and that’s not good. I don’t trust her with cleaning it safely, plus I’m only paying her for 5 mins in the morning, and 5 at night. I’ve considered a mesh intake, but it looks like it could hurt a fish if it went past it quickly... plus I can’t check the size of the inside where the pipe could go as the only one I’ve found would have to be posted.
      Are there easy alternatives that I wouldn’t have to mod, or do intake sponges come in courser versions? (I haven’t checked).
       
      Any input would be appreciated!
       
    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m really wanting to get freshwater crabs, and the only ones I’ve found are A. Lacustris and A. Laevis. I can only put them in a 110 L community tank for now, but may have another option in the future. The tank is stocked with a large school of ember tetras, some rocket killies, some endlers, some tangerine tiger shrimp, and a pair of apistogrammas. Rare aqua advised that A. Lacustris would likely be eaten by the apistos, so the obvious choice would be A. Laevis, because they’re larger... right? But I’m worried that they might predate upon my shrimp, so wanted to hear some advice and opinions from more people with experience keeping these crabs.
      Cheers!
    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m really wanting to get freshwater crabs, and the only ones I’ve found are A. Lacustris and A. Laevis. I can only put them in a 110 L community tank for now, but may have another option in the future. The tank is stocked with a large school of ember tetras, some rocket killies, some endlers, some tangerine tiger shrimp, and a pair of apistogrammas. Rare aqua advised that A. Lacustris would likely be eaten by the apistos, so the obvious choice would be A. Laevis, because they’re larger... right? But I’m worried that they might predate upon my shrimp, so wanted to hear some advice and opinions from more people with experience keeping these crabs.
      Cheers!
    • bristlenose
      By bristlenose
      Hi, I've kept Red cherry shrimp for at least 3 years. I've never had a problem with them. I used to keep my shrimp in 500l tank but i got careless while buying plants and introduced planaria into my aquarium. I only noticed after the numbers got out of hand and i noticed the shrimp deaths adding up. I moved 200-300 shrimp into a standard 4ft tank planted aquarium and dosed with noplanaria along with melafix to ward off any bacterial infections. There were multiple dozens of shrimp shells all over after being moved. Initially i believed it may have been the planaria/bacterial/constant water changes/stress of new environment(i drip acclimated them for a 5 hours) that was killing them but i haven't changed the water in a 2 months but i still get the occasional death, 1 or 2 every few days. There are decent amounts of cuttlebone in the filter and also in the aquarium itself, and i also feed them the occasional powdered egg shells but i still get molting problems. Adults and also the month olds are dying, no discrimination. They're fed every other day shrimp snow, high protein discus granules and zucchini/pumpkin/spinach/dry seaweed every 3-4 days. I can see many berried females and small shrimp and also babies but i'm still losing shrimp constantly, easily 80+ in total. I don't want to buy a gh/kh test, they have never had any problems with molting in their last aquarium so can't quite understand why they're having problems now in the 150l. I've read so much online but i can't seem to find an answer, i'd sincerely appreciate any advice i can get. Thank you so much if you've managed to read all of this. Please feel free to ask any questions. The photo is from the current setup they're in.
      Previous tank parameters:
      Ammonia: 0 
      nitrite: 0 
      nitrates: 20ppm
      Ph: 8
      substrate: sand 
      Lighting: generic LED lights i got off ebay
      I don't know any other parameters.  cuttlebone in the tank and filter, no ferts, heavily infested with guppy grass. Large colony of bristlenose. 
      New tank parameters:
      ammonia: 0
      Nitrite: 0
      Nitrates:30-40ppm 
      co2: 3-4 bps 
      Ph: 6.5
      Lighting: generic LED lights i got off ebay
      substrate: ada aquasoil
      The new tank is heavily planted and dosed with root tabs and liquid ferts. Cuttlebone in the tank and filter. 6 large pieces of seiryu stone 17kg (i doubt they're authentic so they're some kind of limestone) Shrimp only tank
       

    • Seattleshrimp
      By Seattleshrimp
      Hi ! 
      I live in Seattle where the water is incredibly soft and I have a tap water pH of 6.7, GH of 0-1 and KH 2. My existing tank with plants already has buffered substrate. Would I have better chance of keeping CRS than RCS with my current water parameters ? Or would RCS do okay?    I do have an RO system already, and I could  remineralize my water with salty shrimp KH/GH+. Which would allow my GH and KH parameter to be okay for neocaridinas, but I already have a tank with active substrate. I’m 100% I don’t have space to set up another tank with inert substrate.    Would do you recommend ? What are pH you have successfully kept neocaridinas and have them thriving ?    Thanks ! I appreciate all the help as I am new to the hobby. 


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  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      You're fine as you are, you want some KH! You can slowly reduce the TDS by topping up the tank with just RO water, it is ok at 252 but that is pretty much regarded as the upper level (150-250). From here in you don't need to do ALL the tests every time just use the TDS when preparing new water and I would aim for about 200-220 when mixing new water as that way you have quite a margin for inaccuracy as it will probably be difficult to get it spot on anyway with the powder GH/KH+. As you are using the salty shrimp mineraliser that means the GH will tie in with the TDS anyway. Probably do fortnightly set of tests for the first few months just so you can be sure all is well? I'll keep my fingers crossed it is all plain sailing now! Enjoy watching your new shrimps and snails. Simon  Edit - suddenly realised what I wrote! YOU SHOULD ALWAYS top up with RO water as evaporated water leaves everything in the tank water anyway. To get the TDS down you can mix the new water to TDS 200-220 when you do a water change, or even use just RO water for the water change if it is very small and dripped into the tank!
    • DEL 707
      Thanks. I've got them drip acclimatising at the moment, 5 shrimp and 2 nerrite snails. CO2 is turned off, will keep it off for a few days. My TDS is 253. With my soil, is it worth switching to Salty Shrimp GH+, or should I keep using the GH/KH+
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Fantastic news!!! They may slow down/stop breeding in winter remember but that's not something you need to worry about at the moment. I think most people leave at least the back (I leave back and both sides) alone, to grow algae/biofilm, the babies especially like that? If you don't like seeing the growth on the back glass then you can get some black background to put behind the tank, this will also show the shrimps off better, especially babies if they are on the back???? Also as the sponge is black and the filter is also black etc they won't be so visually obvious????  Always great to hear a success story so thanks for the update! Simon
    • sdlTBfanUK
      GO FOR IT! As I wrote earlier mine are kept in KH2 and KH3 and do fine so I would think yours will be as well but just stretch out the acclimating as a precaution. My KH3 I use KH elixir which I got from ProShrimp but that was for the betta - incidentally using the elixir also increases the TDS, but I would go get those shrimps and see how you go first before trying to complicate things as I think they should be fine, so see how they go and expect maybe 1 or 2 may die in the first couple of weeks (expect that and if they don't you will be happier). As you say the soil is probably softening the water and that will stop eventually, so over time it will probably increase slowly, but my shrimp have lived for 5 years in KH2! Do you know what the TDS figure is now? Simon
    • Lizzy
      A small update. I have more shrimplets than I can count and numerous berried females too, which is great. I can see shrimplets of all sizes too, which indicates they're surviving nicely. Super stoked to see the population finally taking off. I imagine switching to RO water has been partly, if not totally, responsible for the uprated breeding and shrimplet survival. The pH has slowly dropped to around 6.8 since I started using it instead of tapwater. I'd also give some of the credit to the warmer weather with the change of season, but I've been here before and never had more than a couple berried at any time, and never had large numbers of babies. I realised I hadn't put a tank photo up recently. I cleaned it out months ago to make it easier to see the shrimp. This tank is really ugly, but its practical and the shrimp like it. I even leave the algae build-up on the rear glass in case they get something out of it haha.  
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