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    • Crabclaw
      By Crabclaw
      Hey guys, I’m going away for a few weeks and having a neighbour take care of my tank, as they are already gonna be caring for my cat during that period. I’ll be away for 2 and a half weeks, so not a huge amount of time, but the neighbour doesn’t have any experience with fish or shrimp tank maintenance.
      The tank will be fine without a water change during that time as long as I do one before I leave, I know that, but my 2 main problems are feeding and stopping my intake sponge from clogging up.
      For feeding I was considering getting a couple of pill boxes, like the ones that have seperate compartments for each day of the week, so I can set a certain amount for each day, and which foods.
      But for the intake sponge, I’m pretty stumped. My current intake is a sponge filter connected to the intake pipe, but it’s been clogging up once or twice a week due to how fine it is (and how messy my fish are). When it’s clogged, it puts strain on the canister filter’s motor, and that’s not good. I don’t trust her with cleaning it safely, plus I’m only paying her for 5 mins in the morning, and 5 at night. I’ve considered a mesh intake, but it looks like it could hurt a fish if it went past it quickly... plus I can’t check the size of the inside where the pipe could go as the only one I’ve found would have to be posted.
      Are there easy alternatives that I wouldn’t have to mod, or do intake sponges come in courser versions? (I haven’t checked).
      Any input would be appreciated!
    • edishrimp
      By edishrimp
      Hey guys!
      Just wondering if any of ya'll have experience keeping filter feeder shrimp? They're fairly common here although most of the LFS tend to stock lethargic specimens that seem to be on their last legs 😕 Just need some advice on how to spot and pick out healthy specimens for my community tank 😄  
      Also, anyone know where I could find the less common wood shrimp on steroids? Let me know 🙂 
      Common Wood Shrimp

      Wood Shrimp's Buff Cousin, Vampire Shrimp

    • waffle
      By waffle
      Hey folks, can anyone recommend an effective, silent corner filter for a 33cm cube tank?
      Cheers ?
      This is looking like a good candidate at the moment: http://www.thetechden.com.au/Aquael_Pat_Mini_Filter_for_tanks_10_80_liters_p/111605.ht
    • revolutionhope
      By revolutionhope
      Hi folks,
      i have received some beautiful CRS from heavyD today and i have a situation with the current being too fast for the shrimp to swim very well in. I have the spraybar just below the surface and angled slightly up for maximum oxygenation but it still seems to be a little fast at the lower level of the tank, i can see moss swaying around and the shrimps being blown across somewhat when they try to swim. There is quite a "whirlpool" effect happening.
      Aside from replacing the canister with a smaller one; how does one go about lessening the current inside the tank? I thought of 2 solutions but I don't know how wellthey will do or exactly how to implement them -
      1)I could make more holes or make the holes larger in the spraybar?
      2) cover it with a stocking or sponge or something to slow down the water as it shoots out the holes in the spraybar.
      love n peace
    • GotCrabs
      By GotCrabs
      G'Day all, I have an Eheim 2213 Canister filter, API Bio Chem Zorb, API Nitra Zorb, just wondering what goes where as this will be the first time using Nitra Zorb.
      From bottom up, it goes Blue Course Sponge (3 or 4 depending on room), then White Filter Pad (1), then Carbon Pad (1), do I then place the Bio Chem Zorb on or the Nitra Zorb? Or do they go in different sections in the filter?
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  • Posts

    • Steensj2004
      Side question, can I get away with this micro HOB? It has predicted sponges, abs I really want something to polish the water a bit more https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13099-Filter/dp/B072KL1NDY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=azoo+mignon+filter+60&qid=1573604390&sprefix=azoo+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExR1dYU0xYVkVKU0E2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTc5NDMwM09ETkw2WEFJM0czNCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDYxMzIyMTNCUVo1TExGWFgzRCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl    
    • Steensj2004
      Not as much as the adults, but, I tend to see them when the father in the feeding area. If the adults are out, they seem to be in the same area. I counted 5 last night
    • jayc
      You mean your babies are now roaming around?
    • jayc
      LOL, did you have bioflim on yer fingers?  
    • jayc
      @Sonnycbr, Instead of blindly doing water changes, you should test your pH in the cycling tank. If it drops below 6.8, than do a water change to bring it back up above 7.0. How much you change can depend on how it new water it takes to bring it back above 7.0 pH. Some times, people don't know why they change water during the cycling process. They might say "Oh it is to reduce the ammonia levels". But ammonia is what feeds the bacteria. Aren't we trying to build up the beneficial bacteria? Than why are people (even on youtube) throwing out the very thing that is needed for the bacteria to colonise? The ammonia.  The real reason we change water during a cycle is because the bacteria growth/activity slows when pH drops below 6-ish. It is at it's optimum above 7.0. The new water which should ideally be above pH 7.0 (tap water usually is), will bring the ph of the whole tank back up. In addition, the new water should hopefully also contain more ammonia, food source, for the bacteria. (De-chlorinate the tap water if you use it!!) In a tank that has been cycling for a while, the bacteria that starts breaking down ammonia will eventually remove all the ammonia, it's food source will be gone. If you don't have another source of ammonia (eg, livestock waste, degrading food, externally added ammonia) ... the newly established bacteria will start to starve. More ammonia needs to be added somehow. The pH in a tank will naturally drop during the cycling period. The breakdown of ammonia NH3 by the bacteria leaves behind more hydrogen H. The N (Nitrogen) is removed from NH3, leaving H3. That is, more Hydrogen is left behind. The pH scale is logarithmic and inversely indicates the concentration of hydrogen ions in the water (a lower pH indicates a higher concentration of hydrogen ions). So the water change does two things, raises the pH and adds more ammonia, not take away ammonia.  If you use RO water to cycle a tank ... RO water is devoid of a food source (ammonia) and is naturally low in pH. Is this a good type of water for tank cycling? So now that you are armed with this information, you are now officially more knowledgeable than that youtuber you watched. Go forth and change water in a cycling tank only when needed. 50% twice a week could be the right amount for that other person, but it might not be right for you.
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