Eheim 2213 Canister Media Set Up

[GotCrabs]

G'Day all, I have an Eheim 2213 Canister filter, API Bio Chem Zorb, API Nitra Zorb, just wondering what goes where as this will be the first time using Nitra Zorb.

From bottom up, it goes Blue Course Sponge (3 or 4 depending on room), then White Filter Pad (1), then Carbon Pad (1), do I then place the Bio Chem Zorb on or the Nitra Zorb? Or do they go in different sections in the filter?

Cheers.

[neo-2FX]

Hey GC, this API Nitra Zorb sounds just like a pH Down or Up product (waste of time). It removes ammonia, nitrites and nitrates...if you're having issues with those parameters this thing would cover that up?

When I setup my 2213, the guys here gave me some great advice. Mine goes (bottom to top):

One layer of mechanical > Blue sponge > Marine Pure > Eheim substrat pro (this can go in between the marine pure too) > White sponge

It has made one hell of a biological environment!

Forget the carbon pad.

Edited October 14, 2015 by neo-2FX

[jayc]

+1 to what @neo-2FX said.

API Bio Chem Zorb ... isn't that just a carbon & purigen combo?

Also not needed until it is really needed. Like the carbon pad. Leave it out.

 

The proposed media setup seems to have too much mechanical media, not enough biological media.

The sponges are there to trap solids. But you need more surface area for the beneficial bacteria to go to work on the dissolved solids ie. Ammonia NH3, Nitrites NO2 and Nitrates NO3.

Things like ceramic rings and marine pure will serve this purpose. It lets the solids pass by while the dissolved solids traverses through the media to the bacteria where nitrogenous wastes are processed.

So your canister needs to order the media as neo-2fx said.

In order of water flow. Usually from the bottom of the canister to the top. 

1. Course sponge first (at the bottom of the canister) to filter out the big solids which might clog the biological media.
2. Medium sponge as an option if you have space to remove more solids.
3. Then Biological media, which needs to be the bulk of the overall media. Fit as much as you can into a canister. This goes for HOBs too. Fit as much bio media into HOBs where you can.  

   I like marine pure for the sheer amount of surface area it offers. Each MP ball has a huge surface area, and at it's centre, there is enough density to create an anaerobic environment for Nitrate reducing bacteria.

   But you can use things like ceramic noodles/rings, bakki balls, eheim substrat, etc. It's your choice. But pack biological media in !

   I have 70% bio media (marine pure) to 30% mechanical filter in my canister as a guide.

4. The last media is a fine sponge to polish the water and remove the finest of solids before the water returns into the tank. But why waste this layer to just any old fine sponge. The best media for this last layer is Poly filter.

http://www.thetechden.com.au/Poly_Filter_20cm_X_10cm_8_in_X_4_in_p/pf4080.htm

 

 

 

[albash]

Guys,

Thanks for this thread Gotcrab, a question in my mind for ages but cannot be bother to ask.

I would like also to put purigen inside my canister too but not sure in which order. Can you advise?

[jc12]

Usually it is mechanical followed by biological and lastly chemical filtration.

I.e. coarse/fine sponges => ceramic rings/marine pure => purigen/carbon/macropore.

Hope this helps.

 

[jayc]

@albash, if you need to use purigen, it should be in a bag (obviously), and should be placed at the top of the canister. That way you can remove it easily. It's job is not a mechanical filter to remove solids, nor is it for a primary biological filter. Purigen and it's similar cousin, Macropore, along with media like carbon, zeolite is primarily used as a chemical filtration media. To remove chemicals and dissolved solids. 

Note: purigen shouldn't be used on a long term basis, only if you need to reduce Nitrates for example.

With all chemical media, it gets exhausted eventually, and looses it's ability to absorb further. So the point is, it's not meant for long term use. Don't add and forget. It needs to be removed periodically according to the manufacturers suggestion. 

Chemical media should only be used on an as needs basis. 

The space is much better utilised by biological media.

<edit> - beaten by jc12 by 2 seconds.

Edited October 15, 2015 by jayc

[jc12]

 

<edit> - beaten by jc12 by 2 seconds.

Haha. Funny. Your reply was heaps more comprehensive, way better than mine hands down. It is not about how quickly you reply but about the quality of the reply you provided.

[GotCrabs]

So, does this mean it's not the size that matters but what you do with it?

[JacksonL]

@albash, if you need to use purigen, it should be in a bag (obviously), and should be placed at the top of the canister. That way you can remove it easily. It's job is not a mechanical filter to remove solids, nor is it for a primary biological filter. Purigen and it's similar cousin, Macropore, along with media like carbon, zeolite is primarily used as a chemical filtration media. To remove chemicals and dissolved solids. 

Note: purigen shouldn't be used on a long term basis, only if you need to reduce Nitrates for example.

With all chemical media, it gets exhausted eventually, and looses it's ability to absorb further. So the point is, it's not meant for long term use. Don't add and forget. It needs to be removed periodically according to the manufacturers suggestion. 

Chemical media should only be used on an as needs basis. 

The space is much better utilised by biological media.

<edit> - beaten by jc12 by 2 seconds.

why shouldn't Purigen be used full time?

it can be regenerated 3 or 4 times, so it's not all that expensive to have a couple of bags on rotation, one in the filter and one regenerating/stored.

I have no issues with nitrates, but the water is noticeably clearer with purigen in, I thought it was clear before but it's amazing the difference it makes. I've been running it full time for about 5 months now and haven't noticed any issues, can it cause problems?

[jayc]

Maybe 'shouldn't' is a bit strong.

Its not necessary. 

Purigen indiscriminately absorbs dissolved solids. That includes undesirables like nitrates,  but it will also absorb the good desirables like dissolved calcium, magnesium,  potassium. 

It doesn't necessarily cause problems. It just doesn't make sense that we dose calcium and magnesium, in the form of remineralising products like salty shrimp. Then absorb it out again with Purigen. 

Its much more effective and efficient to only use Purigen when you start seeing nitrates rising.

[JacksonL]

Maybe 'shouldn't' is a bit strong.

Its not necessary. 

Purigen indiscriminately absorbs dissolved solids. That includes undesirables like nitrates,  but it will also absorb the good desirables like dissolved calcium, magnesium,  potassium. 

It doesn't necessarily cause problems. It just doesn't make sense that we dose calcium and magnesium, in the form of remineralising products like salty shrimp. Then absorb it out again with Purigen. 

Its much more effective and efficient to only use Purigen when you start seeing nitrates rising.

you may be confusing Purigen with other zeolite style media, Purigen only removes organic nitrogenous waste. It doesn't impact calcium, potassium or magnesium levels. I have even performed a few experiments in a tub of water out back and it doesn't seem to lower nitrate levels that I have artificially raised with KNO3, but will drop them quickly when high nitrate water from a fish pond is used to raise levels. Not sure how it would distinguish between the organic Nitrogen from fish waste and the Nitrogen added from chemical salts but somehow it seems to!