Jump to content
  • Similar Content

    • shrimpAquatics
      By shrimpAquatics
      Hey everyone,
      I noticed this the other day on my RCS, a little white grain that was stuck on its head. 
      Does anybody know what this is?
      cheers! 
    • MaNieAk
      By MaNieAk
      Hello all
      I have a small setup ( for now :) , 2 x 60L both with internal filter system
      In one i keep PRL , benibachi x hakata , not the most beautifull ones in the beginning
      but it seems to be getting allot better lately
      The other tank is a ''mixed tank '' containing the following :
      MALE :
      2x Zebra pinto black
      1x crystal white
      2x Ebi Tengi Tangerine Tigers (golden)
      3x Spotted Head Red
      FEMALE:
      1x (shadow)Red Taitibee
      1x PRL SS
      1x PRL SSS
      In this mixed tank i now discovered the following fry / baby shrimp
      Soil is akadama 1-4 mm


       


       


       




       
       
      Can someone help me with naming these hybrids ?
      And what do you think , is it worth it to select these patterns for further breeding ?
      Thanks allot !
       
    • Disciple
      By Disciple
      Ok people time to make history we will start with a simple one for this we just need a yes or no answer we will define the term pure as it will relate to shrimp this is only single gene line shrimp no hybrids ie tibee, pinto, misch etc. Going forward in our hobby pure in reference to shrimp will mean the following any shrimp that produces and has produce all offspring of the same genetic make up as the parents for 3 or more generations shall be deemed pure.
      These are some interesting responses that we have had.
      1. Yes! But I'm not okay with just 3 generations to call it pure. As I told earlier in another discussion, I've been getting only crs offspring in my crs only tank for the past 2 years until now(2 golden bees after more than 10+ generations approx, meantime no new shrimps were added in the past 1.5 years)
      2. Perhaps the term "true-breeding" (or pure-breeding) is more useful than pure, most if not all these things are hybrids after all. There are no wild species that correspond to a Taiwan/Shadow bee, for example. The true breeding stability comes from dilligent selection and line breeding for a given trait until no other traits occur. That's the hard part of the work and down to the quality of the breeder.
      3. Well pure means pure, not 80<90 %.
    • GotCrabs
      By GotCrabs
      Mum bought some plants for her Guppy tank and one of them I'm unsure of what it is, it was sold as Blyxa but I am certain it isn't, it's too upright and some what hard, unlike the soft, lightly bent leaf of a Blyxa, any ideas of what it is anyone? It's growing quite well and I actually don't mind it either.
       


    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      This thing is going out of controll in my tank. What plant is it?




  • Must Read SKF Articles

  • Register today, ask questions and share your shrimp and fish tank experiences with us!

    Join Our Community!

  • Posts

    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thanks for replying. I know what you mean about breeding, I started off with about 10 and was soon (couple of months) over 100, and  I am sure that would have kept going up if the tank could  have supported more??? I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work with bee shrimps if it is working so well for your cherry shrimp. Obviously the parameters are different but if you are managing to keep the cherry tanks stable I don't see why the bee would be any different, although they are a lot harder to keep! Worth a try though unless someone says otherwise? I shall certainly follow this with some interest. Simon 
    • Myola
      Hi Simon, NO, I wasn't using a buffering substrate previously in the neo tanks, it was just some white gravel that I had laying around. It had originally been in a fish tank some years ago, so it wasn't new when I put it into the neo tank. It started to break down just because of age, and my GH, and subsequently TDS, were rising out of control. JayC talked me through a rebuild with a bare floor. It has worked so well that when I set up more neo tanks I just made them bare as well. Like I said, I wouldn't go back. The little buggers are breeding like crazy, I have a very high baby survival rate and almost no deaths. Under my particular water conditions, it works great ... for neo caridinas. Now I want to do the same with caridinas, but not sure if there's more to a buffering substrate that I don't know about. Hopefully someone out there will be able to help me (and you) with the answers :)  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      A very good question and one I will follow with much interest as I had a similar question a year ago in that would I need to replace the substrate when it stopped buffering with my Taiwan bee tank if all the water I use has the right parameters. Unfortunately I don't know the answer in my case as my heater stuck on and killed all my shrimps off so I am starting again, though I still wonder about the same issue, though I should have at least a year before the new substrate stops buffering.  A lot of big breeding companies that have hundreds or thousands of shrimp (cherry and bee) in each tank (big tanks admittedly) use bare tanks (for obvious conveniences) so I am guessing it will be ok! Hopefully someone who has done it may get back to this thread, but otherwise I would give it a go with a few, especially if you have a spare small tank etc and see how it goes? If you used buffering substrate before but were using RO mineralised water of ideal PH did you have a problem once the substrate lost its buffering ability? I am/was hoping that the substrate buffering wasn't really needed if the water going into the tank is always around PH 5 or 6?  Simon
    • Myola
      So here's the thing. I've got 6 bare-bottom neo tanks that have been chugging along just fine for quite a while now. There are lots of babies and it's extremely rare to have any deaths, even when I add new shrimp.  I use remineralised rain water that has been filtered through an RO. I stopped using substrates in the tanks after I had ongoing issues with it breaking down, and to be honest, I wouldn't go back. Now I want to start some caridina tanks for tangerine tigers, CRS and blue bolts but want to know if I can get away with bare bottoms in them too. My RO filtered rain water comes out at pH 5, and when I add Salty Shrimp 'Bee shrimp' minerals to give me a GH of 5, the pH goes up to around 5.8. Do I really need the buffering affects of a substrate if my water is already within an acceptable range for caridinas? 
    • jayc
      It must have been an aluminium heatsink. The Indium in Liquid metal will eat through aluminium. Only copper or nickel plated heatsinks can be used with liquid metal. It says so on the packet, at least my pack of Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut does.
×