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    • shrimpAquatics
      By shrimpAquatics
      Hey everyone,
      I noticed this the other day on my RCS, a little white grain that was stuck on its head. 
      Does anybody know what this is?
      cheers! 
    • MaNieAk
      By MaNieAk
      Hello all
      I have a small setup ( for now :) , 2 x 60L both with internal filter system
      In one i keep PRL , benibachi x hakata , not the most beautifull ones in the beginning
      but it seems to be getting allot better lately
      The other tank is a ''mixed tank '' containing the following :
      MALE :
      2x Zebra pinto black
      1x crystal white
      2x Ebi Tengi Tangerine Tigers (golden)
      3x Spotted Head Red
      FEMALE:
      1x (shadow)Red Taitibee
      1x PRL SS
      1x PRL SSS
      In this mixed tank i now discovered the following fry / baby shrimp
      Soil is akadama 1-4 mm


       


       


       




       
       
      Can someone help me with naming these hybrids ?
      And what do you think , is it worth it to select these patterns for further breeding ?
      Thanks allot !
       
    • Disciple
      By Disciple
      Ok people time to make history we will start with a simple one for this we just need a yes or no answer we will define the term pure as it will relate to shrimp this is only single gene line shrimp no hybrids ie tibee, pinto, misch etc. Going forward in our hobby pure in reference to shrimp will mean the following any shrimp that produces and has produce all offspring of the same genetic make up as the parents for 3 or more generations shall be deemed pure.
      These are some interesting responses that we have had.
      1. Yes! But I'm not okay with just 3 generations to call it pure. As I told earlier in another discussion, I've been getting only crs offspring in my crs only tank for the past 2 years until now(2 golden bees after more than 10+ generations approx, meantime no new shrimps were added in the past 1.5 years)
      2. Perhaps the term "true-breeding" (or pure-breeding) is more useful than pure, most if not all these things are hybrids after all. There are no wild species that correspond to a Taiwan/Shadow bee, for example. The true breeding stability comes from dilligent selection and line breeding for a given trait until no other traits occur. That's the hard part of the work and down to the quality of the breeder.
      3. Well pure means pure, not 80<90 %.
    • GotCrabs
      By GotCrabs
      Mum bought some plants for her Guppy tank and one of them I'm unsure of what it is, it was sold as Blyxa but I am certain it isn't, it's too upright and some what hard, unlike the soft, lightly bent leaf of a Blyxa, any ideas of what it is anyone? It's growing quite well and I actually don't mind it either.
       


    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      This thing is going out of controll in my tank. What plant is it?




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    • sdlTBfanUK
      Great to hear everything is going nicely and you feel ready to start transferring more to the new tank. You were always going to have the PH difference as you are using soil but my cherry shrimp I have in both tanks thrive ok, it just means that you should drip acclimate them probably most of the day to be on the safe side and it is easy enough with the dripper to just leave it going all day. I am not advocating doing this, but as I was putting the cull shrimps into the new betta tank which had a low PH due to new substrate I just dumped them straight in and they were fine and I didn't see a dead one ever (I saw 10 the other day which is about the number I DUMPED in there) - they are much hardier/adaptable than the bee shrimps. I would do as you want/propose and try 10 for the first transfer! I really don't think you will have a problem with the PH difference but would do a long acclimatising to be safe. I have the same floating weed and mine grows really quickly but it is much easier to keep that under control than duckweed as when you get too many big ones you just remove a few. Incidentally when I do my weekly maintenance I trim off the longer bits of root to about 2 inches and it doesn't seem to harm them! You should probably keep a close eye on the tanks this week as we are supposed to be over 30 degrees most of the week. The smaller tank will be the one most at risk of excessive heat? I wish my reset shrimp tank was as lush and green as your new one - good job! I have added 17 shrimps so far and saw 8 yesterday? Simon
    • CurleyJones321
      Right so i've left the tanks and inhabitants for well this long simply because i dont want things to die off if i can help it and people have said leave it a month after establishing a tank before adding shrimp. Other than doing normal maintenance and transferring the 2 liters of old water from the small tank to the large each time and the large tank then getting an extra 2 liters of mineralised new water. Friday i sorted out all the tank decor in both tanks and adjusted the tank TDS to within 5TDS of each other. mainly because i needed to cull the flaoting plants which in the large tank the frogbit has taken over and in the small tank the water lettuce had almost taken over. the Duckweed has all but died out in both tanks not that i have done anything to aid it. my tanks now look like the attached. i then took readings they are as follows:-

      Small tank
      TDS - 232
      Temp - 23C
      PH - 7
      NH4 - Unreadable
      N03 - 1PPM
      N02 - 0.05PPM
      P04 - 2PPM
      dKH - 2
      dGH - 6

      Large Tank
      TDS - 237
      Temp - 24C
      PH - 5.5
      NH4 - Unreadable
      N03 - Unreadable
      N02 - Unreadable
      P04 - 1PPM
      dKH - 1
      dGH - 5

      So the Phosphate is up but thats because i was massively invasive in the tanks and churned up the fertaliser i have in the tank substrate. The PH is also what i would consider to be completely off

      also as a side note its worth mentioning that stressing plays out seems to stimulate them to give birth, i now have an extra at least 3 fry appear in the tank just after the works when the mothers had seemed to have stopped giving birth.

      i also got a new fish the in other breed of platy because the fish keeper at my LFS told me they could interbreed and it might make what im doing with the fish go faster, i got him today and named him Rodney and am about to add him to the Large Tank with Tyrone  before taking Tyrone out and putting more females in the tank with Rodney to let nature take its course. the Fish keeper did tell me to drip acclimate him however as the PH shock may be too much so that's what I'm currently doing and he's on his 2nd dip.

      that does make me wonder however can i now add shrimp to the tank or is the PH going to be a massive problem. i estimate i have between 60 and 100 shrimp in the small tank and want to transfer over say 10?
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thanks for replying. I know what you mean about breeding, I started off with about 10 and was soon (couple of months) over 100, and  I am sure that would have kept going up if the tank could  have supported more??? I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work with bee shrimps if it is working so well for your cherry shrimp. Obviously the parameters are different but if you are managing to keep the cherry tanks stable I don't see why the bee would be any different, although they are a lot harder to keep! Worth a try though unless someone says otherwise? I shall certainly follow this with some interest. Simon 
    • Myola
      Hi Simon, NO, I wasn't using a buffering substrate previously in the neo tanks, it was just some white gravel that I had laying around. It had originally been in a fish tank some years ago, so it wasn't new when I put it into the neo tank. It started to break down just because of age, and my GH, and subsequently TDS, were rising out of control. JayC talked me through a rebuild with a bare floor. It has worked so well that when I set up more neo tanks I just made them bare as well. Like I said, I wouldn't go back. The little buggers are breeding like crazy, I have a very high baby survival rate and almost no deaths. Under my particular water conditions, it works great ... for neo caridinas. Now I want to do the same with caridinas, but not sure if there's more to a buffering substrate that I don't know about. Hopefully someone out there will be able to help me (and you) with the answers :)  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      A very good question and one I will follow with much interest as I had a similar question a year ago in that would I need to replace the substrate when it stopped buffering with my Taiwan bee tank if all the water I use has the right parameters. Unfortunately I don't know the answer in my case as my heater stuck on and killed all my shrimps off so I am starting again, though I still wonder about the same issue, though I should have at least a year before the new substrate stops buffering.  A lot of big breeding companies that have hundreds or thousands of shrimp (cherry and bee) in each tank (big tanks admittedly) use bare tanks (for obvious conveniences) so I am guessing it will be ok! Hopefully someone who has done it may get back to this thread, but otherwise I would give it a go with a few, especially if you have a spare small tank etc and see how it goes? If you used buffering substrate before but were using RO mineralised water of ideal PH did you have a problem once the substrate lost its buffering ability? I am/was hoping that the substrate buffering wasn't really needed if the water going into the tank is always around PH 5 or 6?  Simon
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