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    • shrimpAquatics
      By shrimpAquatics
      Hey everyone,
      I noticed this the other day on my RCS, a little white grain that was stuck on its head. 
      Does anybody know what this is?
      cheers! 
    • MaNieAk
      By MaNieAk
      Hello all
      I have a small setup ( for now :) , 2 x 60L both with internal filter system
      In one i keep PRL , benibachi x hakata , not the most beautifull ones in the beginning
      but it seems to be getting allot better lately
      The other tank is a ''mixed tank '' containing the following :
      MALE :
      2x Zebra pinto black
      1x crystal white
      2x Ebi Tengi Tangerine Tigers (golden)
      3x Spotted Head Red
      FEMALE:
      1x (shadow)Red Taitibee
      1x PRL SS
      1x PRL SSS
      In this mixed tank i now discovered the following fry / baby shrimp
      Soil is akadama 1-4 mm


       


       


       




       
       
      Can someone help me with naming these hybrids ?
      And what do you think , is it worth it to select these patterns for further breeding ?
      Thanks allot !
       
    • Disciple
      By Disciple
      Ok people time to make history we will start with a simple one for this we just need a yes or no answer we will define the term pure as it will relate to shrimp this is only single gene line shrimp no hybrids ie tibee, pinto, misch etc. Going forward in our hobby pure in reference to shrimp will mean the following any shrimp that produces and has produce all offspring of the same genetic make up as the parents for 3 or more generations shall be deemed pure.
      These are some interesting responses that we have had.
      1. Yes! But I'm not okay with just 3 generations to call it pure. As I told earlier in another discussion, I've been getting only crs offspring in my crs only tank for the past 2 years until now(2 golden bees after more than 10+ generations approx, meantime no new shrimps were added in the past 1.5 years)
      2. Perhaps the term "true-breeding" (or pure-breeding) is more useful than pure, most if not all these things are hybrids after all. There are no wild species that correspond to a Taiwan/Shadow bee, for example. The true breeding stability comes from dilligent selection and line breeding for a given trait until no other traits occur. That's the hard part of the work and down to the quality of the breeder.
      3. Well pure means pure, not 80<90 %.
    • GotCrabs
      By GotCrabs
      Mum bought some plants for her Guppy tank and one of them I'm unsure of what it is, it was sold as Blyxa but I am certain it isn't, it's too upright and some what hard, unlike the soft, lightly bent leaf of a Blyxa, any ideas of what it is anyone? It's growing quite well and I actually don't mind it either.
       


    • NoGi
      By NoGi
      This thing is going out of controll in my tank. What plant is it?


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  • Posts

    • LCM94
      thanks! I know about CO2 rules and am used to it :) I will get the taiwan bees tomorrow morning as they were shipped this afternoon. I will post the pictures.
    • sdlTBfanUK
      Thanks for updating us and I'm pleased it seems to be working better now. The tank looks fabulous as well and the shrimp will be very happy in there! Go carefully with the C02 though and I hope to see your taiwan bee shrimp soon? Simon
    • LCM94
      Hi  For those who read my last issues in this thread below, I have completely renewed the tank. Introduction of a spider wood of some sort polluted my tech soil definitely. So removed everything, changed the soil to a standard JBL Manado Dark soil, so I won't have to worry about changing it for a while. I kept the plants but threw away the soil & the woods I used to have. Plants were kept. After 6 weeks of running it empty I introduced last week CRS S to SSS type. They are doing fine. I use 100% RO water with salty shrimp for Caridinas. Parameters seem all perfect. CO2 to help plants grow. Just wanted to open a live topic to show you the evolution and breeding I will have when I will introduce this week some Taiwan Bees Pandas & Red Wines. The results should be interesting. I am not looking into breeding specific types, just want to see how thing goes with this breedings. Anyway here are a couple of pics.  
    • sdlTBfanUK
      I would just test the KH of the tank and make sure it is still 3 and if it is leave it alone, that's the figure you want. I use a separate KH+ (elixir) for the one tank I want to add some KH and I already have the GH+ anyway. It is a bit more complicated than buying the GH/KH combined but not that much once you get used to it. You are aiming to keep it at 3-4, so aim for 3 as it is easier to increase than decrease. I think JayC probably knows of a cheap KH alternative cooking product or ingredient (if I remember correctly, I want to say bicarbonate of soda but don't rely on that, something similar?) rather than buying a special product which is obviously more expensive so see what he has to say later! If the first drop was pale yellow then it probably is 0, the reason it went darker will be down to the adding of more tester fluid. The GH+ usually has no KH so with RO water it is usually 0 but you can't test for zero as that requires adding zero drops, and therein you are starting down the road to insanity............. If you are that bothered (and you shouldn't be really) you can increase the volume of water, ie double (10ml) each drop is .5 KH, or 4 times the water (20ml) each drop is .25 KH and so on, however it will be so diluted you probably won't be able to se any colour anyway as it is difficult enough to see the colour in 5ml? Simon
    • jayc
      Not that much of a problem if you got the GH+ instead of GH/KH+. All you need to do is add Bi Card Soda (not baking soda), which you might already have in the kitchen. Go slow. A bit of Bicarb goes a long way to increasing KH. I suggest dissolving 1/4 teaspoon in some tank water. Do this in a small container. Then drop a couple of drops of this into the tank. Any extra can be stored in an empty bottle for next time. Re-test KH. 
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