New aquarium trend

Maintain lower PH level

Bonzai act as a filtration system

I decided on growing them emerse (as I have had luck with Echinodorus and Cryptocorynes that way in the past). However, I wasn't too keen on using the soil mixes I had used before as they always absorbed too much water and ended up covering the medium in algae, so knowing this I decided on perlite instead and I would be mindful to keep the liquid level a lot lower than the top of the perlite to avoid algae potentially covering the mosses. Be mindful your perlite cannot fall out of the pot, however, as the pot I used had large holes on the bottom of it (I used filter wool to plug them). For extra growing help I decided to switch out water (which I had used when growing plants emerse in the past) for BioJuice (a seaweed mix for hydroponic use which promotes vegetative growth, not flowering or root growth like most) to use as the liquid, and for each pot which a moss to be contained inside a bag for humidity which I then put onto my verandah in a place where it would not be too hot, but would also get a decent amount of sunlight with the moss laid out on top of the perlite.

This'll be a work in progress. It's not too clear now but I'll work on that later today and into the future. Better photos will come, don't worry!

The location of the bags on my verandah.

A close view of the set-up (excuse the fog).

This one is already growing after about a week.

Non-aquatic plants to avoid!

When you purchase aquarium plants, it's important that you understand that not all plants available for sale are truly aquatic. Vendors have no qualms offering this plants for sale, because they are very easy to obtain, and it is rare that you will see the designation "non-aquatic." While these plants can often survive as long as a year submerged, more often than not, they begin to decompose in as little as a couple of weeks or months, causing an ammonia spike, which can lead to algae, or worse, prove toxic to fish. These plants are not meant to be grown in an aquarium long-term and it is best that you avoid purchasing them for your benefit and the benefit of the non-aquatic plant. They are terrestrial plants and are meant for either indoor or outdoor gardening. They are at their best when they planted and cared for the right way.

Japanese Rush (Acorus gramineus)

Often sold in pots with rockwool, this plant will survive in the aquarium upto a year, but prefer cooler temperatures. In warm tropical tanks, this plant will turn to mush very quick. Aquatic alternatives such as Lilaeopsis species, Echinodorus tenellus, Sagittaria subulata, Vallisneria species can be used.

Caladium (Caladium bicolor)

This plant will only survive in the aquarium for upto 6 weeks (best kept with its leaves out of the water). These are usually sold in pots with rock wool. Aquatic alternatives such as Tiger lotuses and Barclaya longifolia can be used.

English Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)

This plant can survive long periods in the aquarium, these are usually sold as seedlings about 20cm tall either in pots or in bunches. In terrestrial environments, these can grow upto 2m tall. Aquatic alternative such as Hygrophilia difformis can be used.

Aluminum Plant (Pilea cadierei)

This plant may last in the aquarium for a few weeks, but will eventually melt away. Aquatic alternatives is the Blue Stricta.

Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)

Another plant found in the trade as a potted plant. While it may grow very well in terrestrial form, once submerged it will root very quickly. Alternatively you can use larger Sagittaria species.

Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana)

The lucky bamboo is very common these days among aquarists. If the leaves are kept out of the water, it can survive for a very long time. Once completely submerged, the lifespan is roughly 8 weeks. It is usually sold as rooted stalkes.

Fittonia verschaffeltii

This compact little plant is usually sold in pots, but unfortunately it will only last a couple of weeks in the aquarium before it begins to decay. Alternatively you can used Staurogyne sp.

Purple Waffle Plant (Hemigraphis colorata)

One of the most commonly seen non-aquatic plant in the trade. It is often sold in cuttings secured with rubberbands or lead weights. It may survive upto a year in the aquarium but would require high lighting and high iron levels. This plant will slowly deteriorate. Alternatively you can use Lobelia cardinalis.

Iresine lindenii

A beautiful plant, but completely unsuitable for the aquarium. It is often sold as a potted plant in the aquarium trade. Alternatively you can use Alternantera reineckii.

Selaginella moss (Selaginella martensii)

Unfortunately, this plant only has a 2-week lifespan in the aquarium and is often sold in pots. However, it makes an excellent paludarium plant. Very similar to Selaginella martensii is Selaginella willdenowii (umbrella fern, peacock fern). Aquatic Alternatives - Aquatic mosses, including Frontinalis antipyretica, Taxiphyllum barbieri and other Taxiphyllum species, and Vesicularia dubyana and it's related species.

Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii)

There is a lot of debate regarding the Peace Lily, and it is often seen in the trade as a potted aquarium plant. In Peter Hiscock's book, it is listed as a suitable plant for the aquarium, since it is extremely hardy and can remain healthy in the home aquarium for many months or even years. It is slow growing and can grow with minimal effort and in lower light levels. It is not, however, a true aquatic plant.

Arrowhead Plant (Syngonium podophyllum)

Though suitable for paludariums, the "arrowhead plant" quickly dies if left submerged. It can, however, be kept in situations where its roots are submerged. It is often sold as a potted aquarium plant. Aquatic alternatives - Hygrophila corymbosa, Echinodorus "Ozelot green", Anubia species

Mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonica)

Mondo Grass is not a true aquatic plant. It will survive for awhile underwater but will not prosper. Best if taken out after a couple of months. Alternatively you can use Hairgrass or Blyxa japonica

If you know any other plants I have missed, please post them below :)

Continent: West Africa
Region: West Africa
Height: 50-150cm
Width: 30cm
Light Requirements: High
Temperature: 18-25 °C
Hardness Tolerance: Medium (6dKH)
pH tolerance: 6.5 - 7.5
Growth: Slow
Demands: High
co2 requirements: Yes

Crinum natans is an aquatic plant from West Africa that is still very rare in Australia. This Crinum is regarded as the largest and most rarest Crinum out of the three species that can be kept in aquariums.

The natans had a unique leaf structure. It is long, 1-2cm wide, wrinkled and dark green which can grow upto 1.5m long. When planting this unique plant, the bulb must not be below the soil surface, and roots must be widely spread throughout the substrate. Being such a large and unique plant, with aquascaping, the natans should be a feature plant. Being a large grower, the Crinum natans' growing spot should be carefully considers. They require high lighting, even levels of co2 and ferts. With regards to substrate, it is highly recommended to use high nutrients substrate/soil such as ADA Aqua Soil. The Crinum natans take up a lot of nutrients via the massive roots systems, so planting rich fert tablets ever few months will definitely benefit with the growth of this magnificent plant.

Propagation of the Crinum natans is quite difficult in the aquarium compared to its cousin the Crinum calamistratum. Propagation of the Crinum natans in Australia has not be formally documented. Propagation might be the same as the calamistratum via baby bulbs and by seed germination.

Being such a rare plant in Australia. Prices has been extremely high and availability has been rare. The average price for a small plant of a few leaves average $150-$250. While adult plants has been seen to go over $400. So if you have the opportunity to get your hands on any size of Crinum natans, consider yourself very lucky.

With lots of variety of mosses and ferns out there, here is a compile of Photos from the great Tomasz Wastowski of his current collection.

Bolbitis sp. "Gau Angin"

Microsorum "Small Leaf"

Microsorum "Thunder Leaf"

Microsorum "Short Narrow Leaf"

Loxogramma sp. Wave Moss

Mosses...

Bolbitis sp. "Gua Angin", Bolbitis heteroclita "Cuspidata" & Buce. Brownie Jade

Loxogramme sp.

Amblystegiaceae Manaus "Queen Moss"

Homalia sp "Rosa"

Hymenophyllaceae sp. "Wayanad"

Pteridophyta sp. "Xkiat"

Microsorum sp "Trident"

Plagiochcila sp. Cameroon

Microsorum sp. Mini Windelov

Fissidens Grandifrons var. Planiccaulis

Microsorum sp. Fork Leaf

Bolbitius Heteroclita Difformis

Fissidens Adianthoides

Fissidens Dubius & Fissidens from Poland

Fissidens Dubius

Fissidens from Poland

Fissidens Geminiflorus "Nagasaki"

Fissidens sp. "Himehouogoke"

F. Nobilis, F. Zippelianus, F. Adianth, F. Dubius, F. Dubius 2, F. Poland

Fissidens Nobilis

Continent: Borneo
Region: Borneo
Height: 2-25 cm
Width: 2-16 cm
Light Requirements: Low - High
Temperature: 18-25 °C
Hardness Tolerance: Medium (6dKH)
pH tolerance: 6.5 - 7.5
Growth: Slow - Fast
Demands: Low - High
co2 requirements: Highly recommended

All Bucephalandra are endemic plants growing only on the island of Borneo. They are grown on river sides in swift waters. Bucephalandra look very similar to Anubias in appearance. The Rhizomes attach firmly onto rocks and wood. The stems of the Bucephalandra are mostly pink or red, and during stress, the Bucephalandra can lose its leaves.

Bucephalandra have only recently been in cultivation in aquarium conditions. They firstly appeared in the Japanese aquariums and the trend quickly spread throughout Asia. The price of Bucephalandra are very expensive, but over time will become more affordable. It should be noted that Bucephalandra grow rapidly in nature in high current areas, so in the aquarium we should give him similar environments.

Bucephalandra leaves are very colourful. Depending on the species, you would be able to see the colours of the rainbow. Majority of the species have reddish to pink stems, with shiny green leaves. Also depending on the angel you view the leaves, you will also see bright shades of blue, light green, copper, and reddish. Bucephalandra are mainly small to medium size plants, but there is also a large variety over 25cm tall.

Bucephalandra are not difficult plants, providing them with good conditions like...strong lighting, a lot of co2 and good fertiliser. If these conditions are met, we can enjoy their fast growth rates and their beautiful colours. When plants are converted to low tech aquariums, newly grown leaves would not be as colourful compared to high tech tanks.

Bucephalandra propagation is very similar to the Anubias, when a new growth is formed on the main Rhizome, make sure there are a couple of roots before you can cut and remove. The newly cut growths can be tied on rocks and wood with black cotton until they have take hold of the material. But it is best left to grow together to form clumps.

Continent: Central Africa
Region: Western Cameroon
Height: +90cm
Width: 30cm
Light Requirements: High
Temperature: 18-25 °C
Hardness Tolerance: Medium (6dKH)
pH tolerance: 6.5 - 7.5
Growth: Moderate
Demands: Moderate
co2 requirements: Recommended

Crinum calamistratum is a unique plant found in Central Africa in the Western Cameroon region. This is the smallest species of Crinum that can be kept in the aquarium.

The calamistratum has a unique leaf structure. It is long, slender, deeply wrinkled, dark green and will naturally curl and loops as it grows longer. The leaf texture is hard thus most fish would not be about to munch on the leaves. The calamistratum like the natans require high lighting and will benefit from regularly measured co2. Being such a large and unique plant, with aquascaping, the calamistratum should be a feature plant. Being a large grower, the Crinum calamistratum's growing spot should be carefully considers. Constantly moving of this species around the tank should be avoided, as it will damage the huge root system and will eventually stress the plant and may melt away. The calamistratum is a heavy feeder, thus having a high nutrients substrate is recommended. A constant replenishment of root ferts is high recommended. Tempreture of the water must not exceed 30*C, the Crinum will start to melt from the leaves. The cooler the temp the better.

The bulbs of both the Crinum and the Onions (the ones we eat) is very similar. They consists of scale like structures which are formed by the leaves. If you cut open an onion you will see layers of flesh, these are called scales. Basically when trying to propagate the onion bulb you can cut the onion into quarters and new plant-lets will form, but instead of cutting the bulb of the Crinum, you cut the leaf off, making sure you cut most of it off. Once the leaf has been cut you should only have a thin piece of layer on the bulb. Eventually the layer will melt  towards the base, and a new plant will form. This method has worked 100% in the past, and many have tried this method.

Continent: Asia
Region: South-East Asia
Height: Over 2m
Width: +45cm
Light Requirements: Low - High
Temperature: 18-25 °C
Hardness Tolerance: Medium (6dKH)
pH tolerance: 6 - 8
Growth: Slow - Fast
Demands: Low - High
co2 requirements: Recommended, but not needed

Crinum thaianum, the largest out of all the three Crinum species in the aquarium hobby. Is a found in South-East area around Thailand. This Crinum can grow over 2m long and can easily take over the entire tank if given a nutrients rich substrate.

Co2 injection and not required to grow this species of Crinum. But it is recommended to add co2 to increase growth and to encourage the plant to produce daughter plants. The Crinum thaianum like all Crinums require a rich nutrients substrate, these guys are heavy feeders so root tablets should be inserted around the tank as the root system is huge.

Lighting isn't an issue with the thaianum, it will grow well in low lighting and will increase the rate of growth with higher lighting. The leaves of the thaianum is straight and wide. The leaves are moderately hard so most herbivorous inhabitants will not be able to damage the leaves. When planting this large growing specimen, it is advised to pick a well spaced out location and evenly spread the roots in the soil. Once established, this species will grow longer leaves and the bulb size will increase. If the leaves get too long, you can trim back the leaves to a desired length.

Propagation of the Crinum thaianum is similar to calamistratum. You can cut the leaves off to encourage new bulbs to develop around the base, or you can self pollinate the flowers to produce which will fall into the tank and new plants will emerge.

Remember, this species is the largest out of the Crinums in the hobby, so please take consideration of this before adding to your tank. If you plan to uproot any of the Crinums, you will damage the root system and uproot everything else in the tank.

Continent: Asia
Region: Tropical Asia
Plant Structure: Stem
Light Requirements: Medium - High
Temperature: 20-28*C
Hardness Tolerance:Soft
pH tolerance: 6 - 7
Growth: Medium
Demands: Easy
Co2 Injection: Recommended (2bps)

This Blyxa species is not too hard to grow. For proper growth it is recommended to use intense lighting (+2wpg). moderate co2 injection (2-3bps), fertilisation regimen (inc nitrates, phosphates, potassium, micro-nutrients and iron), Iron sticks/tablets are also recommended. With these requirements met, this beautiful bushy plant will stay low & bushy, colour of the growths (golden pink - deep purple). But if one of these elements are missing, leaves will turn green and will grow taller and thinner. This plants produces a large root system and appreciates a high nutritious substrate. If phosphate levels are kept high at 1-2ppm, this lovely plant will produce lots of small white flowers on a long and thin stalk. Once established, this plants produces many side branches which can be easily removed and replanted atleast 10cm apart. These can be very buoyant and tend to float, but these will take root very easily.

This Blyxa japonica above has been talked about around the world for many years now, and was achieved by myself :) I was able to plant the blyxa onto of my java fern about 10cm below water surface, it grew towards the lighting (150watt Metal Halide and 2 x 24w T4s, between the blyxa and the lighting, it was only 10cm distant) and with the addition of 4 times the recommended dosage of iron and running 5 bps, I was able to turn my green Blyxa japonica to deep purple. All plants in the tank grew wild, with Cherry shrimps and fish all healthy.