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Neocaridina culls and lines


RagingWind92

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Hi everybody, even though im pretty new to this hobby i am in love with these little invertebrates. I would like to see all of your lines or any photos of your current stock would suffice. Currently i am at day 3 of cycle, i know i just started but cant wait till it's fully cycled. I would also like to know if there is anybody who have some for sale by the time my tank is ready. Thanks in advance!

Attached is photo of my Dennerle 10g shrimp tank day 3

8b82cffc6f19e9908b2a92de8c257b41.jpg

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Welcome to the habit :-) what kind of shrimps do you like the look of? Is your substrate inert or buffering?

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I think in the near future i'll have all colot hopefully but right now im leaning towards the black or chocolate color. Im sorry i forgot to add the info. I am using mr. Aqua soil.
Here are my water parameters at the moment
Ph:6.4(trying to get it to 6.6-6.8)
Ammonia: 0.5
Nitrite: 0.25
Nitrate: 20ppm
Temp: 75 degrees farenheit
Gh/kh: my lfs didnt have any in stock so i had to order it online
Lighting: dennerle 5w LED (planning to upgrade to chihiros A-series on ebay)
Co2: i am dosing 1b/s during the daytime but only when im still cycling the tank, once it gets near to complete ill take it out.
Filter: Sunsun 602b canister filter( it only includes 3 sponges, should i add some carbon bags in it?)
Also, should i get a copper test too?

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Bump your tank up to 86° F during the cycle. It will help the bacteria grow a bit faster. Once the cycle is over, you can drop it back down to 68-72° F.

 

Shouldn't need any carbon in the filter, unless you are trying to clean the water/remove meds.

 

Probably don't need the copper test. Maybe ask your LFS if they can test for it? Been in the hobby for about a year, give or take... I don't have a copper test and I don't believe most hobbyists use one. Unless you have an issue with large amounts of copper in your water or you have a lot of copper pipes, I'd just recommend putting that money towards a TDS meter instead. 

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+10 to everything zoidburg said.

28degC or 82-83degF is ideal for growing bacteria. You don't need it at 86° F.  Too cold and too hot can slow bacteria growth.

TDS meter is highly recommended as already mentioned.

 

The 2 other things I would do is change the filter media:

1) Remove the coarse sponge, keep the fine and medium sponge.

Fill the space with biological filter media like ceramic noodles, marine pure spheres, eheim substrat pro, biohome. The more the better. 

Maximise the Sunsun 602b's wasted space with this bio media. 

The space under the plastic stand can house a layer of bio media. The space on the top plastic tray can also hold a layer of bio media.

 

2) Stop CO2 injection until the tank is cycled.

CO2 drops pH, whereas bacteria like higher pH. If you want a faster cycling time, keep the pH up above 7.

After cycling you can drop it to 6.6-6.8. The tank's current 6.4 pH is already slowing bacteria multiplying. Our tap water in Aus is usually 7.8 pH, which is perfect for cycling tanks. So if your tap water is similar, do a water change now to raise pH.

Edited by jayc
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Remember to replace the filter intake with stainless steel mesh or cover the current intake with a pre-filter sponge when you add shrimps to prevent the filter sucking up the babies.

Keen to hear what you think of the Sunsun 602b. I have been thinking of getting the 603b but couldn't find much review about it or how easy/difficult it is to remove and clean. I don't think it has a quick disconnect system?

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Thank you very much zoidburg, jayc, and jc12. I will raise the temp to 80-82 today and will do a WC. Tap water is at 7.6 ph. My tds and ph meter are coming in within the next 2-3 days. Also, i was very confused about the Cu test, so thanks for clearing that up. Will get some ceramic noodles for the wasted space in my filter. Also, im gonna stop co2 injection and add a sponge filter sponge to cap off the filter tube. And jc12, i think the filter is good for its price, very simple no priming needed and nice size but the only thing that i hated was the tubing that came with it. Its so stiff that my inflow tube has to make a loop like a coil in order to attach it to the filter. Might get replacement hose once this onegets dirty :)
If anyone feels like i need to read an article or specific forum/thread, feel free to point it out for me. I don't mind the reading if it can help improve me.

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Update: so i did a 90% WC with tap water using API Tap Water Conditioner Super Strength. Im not sure if it's any good but it removes chlorine and chloramine. Cranked the temp up to 80 and removed my co2 system. Im not sure what to do so maybe you guys can help me, do i need to add any powder bacteria or remineralizer? I did order SS gh+/kh+ just waiting for it to get here through the mail, i did plan on buying Borneowild Shield or GlasGarten Betaglucen but im a little lost on that information too, so if anyone can shed some light on that part for me, thank you in advance. Will conduct a water parameter check for my new 10g tomorrow.

Also, i am so confused with the API Gh/Kh test kit. For my Kh i added 3 drops to turn yellow and for Gh i added 7 drops for it to turn green, so would my Kh=3 and Gh=7? This is a water check from my current 10g that is housing 4 BM atm, not my new tank. The WP are
Ph:7.6
Ammonia:0
Nitrite:0
Nitrate:10-20ppm
Temp: it was 78-80(i know too high, maybe i lost 3 BMs because of this) NOW its at 72-74
Tds: idk hopefully not too high, my meter needs to get here quick XD
I am running an aqua tech HOB filter with a dual sponge filter for surface movement because the HOB doesnt move water much and this tank is a guppy tank so it may be dirty. Is my WP bad for this tank?

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Hi RW92

The WP for the fish tank are fine. Also the TDS for fish is not so critical as long as it is stable, providing it is not up super high like over 600 or so. I just monitor mine, as i use tap water and not RO, to have an idea where it is but never try to change it as i'm just to lazy. 

The KH and GH are also good for almost all fish and would only need to be lowered for the shrimp to get it where you want. The remineralizer you have is for bringing up the GH and KH of RO water from 0 to your desired level. The lazy way, and much cheaper, is to mix tap water with RO and get the desired level. This does not work if there are other impurities in your tap water that you dont want and can be a bit tricky if your tap water changes throughout the year as some do.

The test kits for GH and KH are a general guide and give a pretty broad range, for drops in 5ml of water, of ppm. This can be converted to dKH by dividing by 28 (i think, can somebody correct me there). To get a more accurate measurement the water volume can be increased to 10ml. Generally if you quote the drops per 5ml water then most people know what you are talking about.

Adding bacteria to your water, in my opinion, is a waste of time and money. You would benefit from taking a sponge out of the established tank and putting it in the new tanks filter. Best spot would be at the start of the flow in the filter so any bacteria that gets washed out of it will be washed through the new filters media. That will cut the cycle time by weeks.

Keep the updates coming along with the photo's.

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Thank you very much for the info madmerv, i will try to get some photos of my BMs up. My local petco(lfs) near me have some mopani wood in stock, is it safe to use or is it a big NONO! I've heard it has bad toxins but would really like to hear someones opinion or experience

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964344698fe5f44c0784b8cfcb612df2.jpg
here's a decent shot from my phone of my BM. Im not really sure if it is but my lfs label them as BMs. The tank lighting sucks, just an old 10g flourescent light bulb. Will get some better pics up once everything is good.

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On 1/13/2017 at 0:54 PM, RagingWind92 said:

Im not sure what to do so maybe you guys can help me, do i need to add any powder bacteria or remineralizer?

You don't need remineralizer.

If the powder bacteria is to grow biofilm, then it's great! Just have to be careful with some types as it may remove oxygen out of the water. No shrimp, no problem! But if you add it later, particularly for baby shrimp, it can be an issue.

 

On 1/13/2017 at 0:54 PM, RagingWind92 said:

I did order SS gh+/kh+ just waiting for it to get here through the mail, i did plan on buying Borneowild Shield or GlasGarten Betaglucen but im a little lost on that information too

Unless you are using RO water, you don't need the remineralizer. :)

I can't comment on those two products specifically (I don't have them), but have heard good things about them, particularly the Betaglucan.

 

On 1/13/2017 at 0:54 PM, RagingWind92 said:

Also, i am so confused with the API Gh/Kh test kit. For my Kh i added 3 drops to turn yellow and for Gh i added 7 drops for it to turn green, so would my Kh=3 and Gh=7?

Yes. Perfect for Neos! :)

It's already measured in German Degrees, but if you wanted to convert to ppm, you would multiply by 17.86. I don't see any point in doing this, however...

 

On 1/13/2017 at 0:54 PM, RagingWind92 said:

Temp: it was 78-80(i know too high, maybe i lost 3 BMs because of this) NOW its at 72-74

It's possible. Higher temperatures also mean that bad bacteria has a higher chance of growing, too. Not only that, but some say that shrimp grow faster, thus have shorter lifespans.

Some people have great luck keeping neos at 78, and anything less, they don't do well.

 

 

I'm not entirely sure on the mopani wood.

 

Also, it looks like you have fire reds, not bloody mary. (unless it's the lighting?)

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Thank you very much :) i really appreciate everyones help. I kinda figured they were fire reds but ill repost a picture once they go into the new tank. The lighting is really old, its a stock hood maybe from 2008/2009 with incandescent(i think) bulbs.

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Ive been planning to get an led hood light for the 10g but got sidetracked with this new tank
817ab92e6694f67afe8b4df0c1824859.jpg
So i placed my quad t5 HO over the tank to see how it looked, it seems that the IAL's tannins were causing the yellow water plus the yellow light made my first pic xtra yellow tone

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On 14/01/2017 at 7:54 AM, RagingWind92 said:

Borneowild Shield or GlasGarten Betaglucen

I can't add anything to the advice already given by @Zoidburg, @Madmerv and @jc12 (good work guys).

But I can shed some light on Shield and GG Betaglucan.

Did you know the bulk of these products are made up of good ol Oats. The kind we eat for breakfast - quick oats, porridge, whatever you want to call it. It's all shredded up into powder, and they might add a bit of other vitamins or minerals, but it's just oats. If they didn't shred it up, you would realise it's oats, and question why you are paying $20 for 60g of oats.

If you want to try it out on the cheap, feed your shrimp oats, which you probably already have in the pantry. You can make it into powder so the smaller shrimps can get at it, or just drop it into the tank straight out of the packet.

 

In addition to bacteria in a bottle, there are some good ones out there - do your research. No harm in adding some while you are cycling the tank. It is most important to cycle your new tank until Ammonia and Nitrite read zero before adding any shrimp. Find out what your LFS sell and start a thread asking for opinions before buying.

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Wow i did not know that, i believe i have some oats lying around in the cupboard somewhere. Yeah, i am gonna wait for my tank to fully cycle, dont want to take any risk since im still new. Small steps before taking big strides.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, here's an update. So i ordered some riccia and subwassertang recently and today i noticed this little guy
c003111c24078236f477813186d93c2e.jpg
My tank is only on week 2 cycle and i wanna know if this little guy is going to make it in my current WP?
My WP atm are: ph-6.4, gh-4, kh-(1-2, first drop is very very light yellow then second drop to confirm), tds-110, ammonia-.25ppm, nitrite-0, temp-82F for bacterial growth(do i need lower for the shrimp?) Any input and advice is welcome :)

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You have shrimp in the tank while it is still cycling? I thought the tank was empty apart from plants.

In that case, yes, lower the temps. The bacteria colonisation will slow a bit compared to a warmer temp, but you have to think about the shrimp in there as a priority.

Now that you have livestock in there, I suggest you look into getting that "Bacteria in a bottle" to boost bacteria growth asap. Or squeeze the junk from an old filter media into your tank. It might look dirty, but it will boost bacteria numbers instantly, and the dirty look will be gone after a short period.

 

3 hours ago, RagingWind92 said:

Any input and advice is welcome

Try to avoid cycling a new tank with shrimps in it. As contentious as the subject is, a fish would have had a better chance of survival in a new tank than shrimp. It takes a while to see the effects of shrimp exposed to too much ammonia.

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I had no intention of putting shrimp in there before the full cycle, i only saw him because i was looking at some of the copepods swimming and thats when i noticed him. I think he was a hitchhiker egg in the riccia, because there were some snails in it too. Ok thanks for the advice as i was waiting the whole day for some to see if i can save the little bugger. i have a sponge filter in my guppy tank, ill squeeze em in there.

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2 hours ago, RagingWind92 said:

I think he was a hitchhiker egg in the riccia

I see, that's unavoidable then. 

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Seems to be a blue jelly shrimplet. You should not mix it with your red, especially if they are from the bloody mary line (comes from the chocolate). Your offspring will be recessed colours, back to brownish or greyish shrimps.

Though, if they are red cherries, fire red or painted red, you might end with blue-red rili, which are almost nice in my opinion

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Could have even been a hitchhiker baby in the subwassertang. That's honestly more likely, considering the fact that shrimp don't lay eggs. They carry the eggs around with them, then the eggs hatch and the babies get "kicked" away from the mother. It's like the mother can tell when the eggs are hatching, and will constantly fan the eggs, which might help assist in the egg hatching process?

 

I guess the next question might be, what kind of baby shrimp did you end up with???? :D I'd personally bump up the GH just a tad, since 4 is on the low end, but other than lowering the temperature to around 74°, as long as there are no spikes and the numbers don't get too high, the little one should do fine!

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Thank you guys very much for the advice, i really appreciate it. I don't know how it survived the delivery and i guess my tank was acting like an egg tumbler with the suface agitation and bubbles it created. Ill try to keep him away from the bad colors neo to prevent WT. if this guy is blue i'll name him optimus prime :) ill keep an update on this little guy!

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