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  1. For those of you that are unsure of the differences, I thought the below might help shed some light on these products. Most Asian manufacturers do not disclose the composition of their products unlike the German manufacturers, so there is a lot of uncertainty out there as to exactly what one puts in ones tank once the packet is opened. Firstly a bit about aquatic bacteria: most aquatic bacteria are slow- growing. This means that biofilm is produced slowly. Biofilm is a gel-like mucoid substance secreted by bacteria that they live in. Biofilm in aquaria are almost always gel-like. Because aquatic bacteria is often slow growing, the shrimp outstrips the biofilm faster than it can regrow. There are biofilm promoter products and direct biofilm products and combinations thereof. Genchem Biozyme is a biofilm promoter: if you look at the ingredients, it does not contain bacteria at all. It is partially digested starch and cellulose and enzymes which are utilised by bacteria to form biofilm. Shrimp eat the Biozyme directly as well. It is basically a food source for your aquarium bacteria and is also fine enough for baby shrimp to eat directly. Mosura BT-9 appears to be a mixture of bacteria found in aquariums to supplement your contained ecosystem to prevent sludge, increase ammonia-Nitrite-Nitrogen conversion cycle and to outcompete pathogenic bacteria for food by established colonies that are present rather than growth speed. Because none of the ingredients are disclosed it is impossible to say what is in BT-9, but based on my experiments, it is the slower growing aquatic bacteria, but it does form a nice biofilm over time if you do not have large shrimp populations that strip it bare. I cannot comment on other ingredients in the product as it is not disclosed. Overdosing fouls the water. Queue the new generation products: someone asked the question wether it is possible to add an ‘artificial’ bacteria that grows fast enough not to be outstripped of biofilm faster than the shrimp can eat it? Pediococcus Acidilactici is a lactic acid bacteria that is temperature stable, grows well in pH 1 -6.2 ( grows a bit slower in high pH but still grows faster than natural aquarium bacteria) and is an ideal food source for shrimplets and the cell division rate of this bacteria is fast. It does not naturally occur in aquaria. Bacillus Subtilis is a bacteria found in nature from your intestines to plant leaves and outcompetes pathogenic fungus and bacteria for resources. It is very heavily used in agriculture like mango farming. It is not a direct food source for shrimp, but undoubtedly keeps your aquarium healthier based on controlled trials. Glasgarten Bacter AE contains both the Pediococcus Acidilactici and Bacillus Subtilis as well as amino acids, enzymes and vitamins to activate the bacteria. When used as directed, it grows lactic acid bacteria biofilm fast and greatly increases shrimplet survival as result as there is constantly biofilm available as a food source. Overdosing fouls the water. A similar product available is ShrimpyDaddy Revive Vita that definitely contains a lactobacillus. Genchem Polytase does not contain Lactobacillus, but does contain Bacillus Subtilis, so does Dr Tim's probiotic. Why is there a possible shrimp death warning on the Bacter AE container?: if you do not use an Oxydator in your aquarium and you add a large amount of Bacter AE to your tank, the bacteria will grow extremely fast and use up most of the oxygen in a poorly oxygenated tank, possibly leading to shrimp death. This will not happen if you follow instructions and aerate your aquarium well. This is only a risk if you add a very large amount of Bacter AE.
    7 likes
  2. Hi everyone!! Apologies for being absent, rather than my usual absent mindedness. Due to Christmas Public Holidays there may be some extra delays to orders. But I will get them out first chance I get over the coming weeks. Plenty of goodies still on sale too!! 😊😊 Have a wonderful Christmas and look forward to catching up on the New Year!! 🎅🎄🎅🎄🎅🎄 www.newbreedaquatics.com.au
    4 likes
  3. revolutionhope

    Fruit tree leaves test

    From left to right- Apple cherry guava grape and (peach or nectarine I think!) Treatment method - Rinsed thoroughly, froze overnight, removed from freezer and soaked in container outside tank for a few hours then placed in tank. Most leaves fully sank by themselves but a few required a tiny bit of help. I picked one older and one newer leaf from each tree for this test. I will post a couple of update of how things are going in the coming days. There is bountiful food in the tank due to having fed snow not long ago and then just now recently doing a gravel vac which always brings up lots of goodness for the shrimps to munch too! [emoji173] [emoji111] Will
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  4. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
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  5. Hello, so I was going to put this in diy but figured anyone can make food so its not really a diy, the more important aspect I guess I want to share or discuss is the nutrition side of things. Heres my diy shrimp/ fish food, Especially great for getting meds into your beloved critters. I in no way copied instructions on how to do this so I'm taking aaaaalll the creds lol. "Narcasist" What you'll need: (buy organic where possible but doesn't really matter) A blender(or preferably stick blender) Baking paper An oven and fan(preferably a dehydrator if you or nana has one) Garlic (preferably fresh-not minced) Nori Seaweed sheets for sushi Spirulina powder dry yeast(preferably nutritional yeast) Soybean husk(shrimp snow) Boiled sweet potatoe First blend up all your dry ingedients one by one into a course power. Then blend your garlic with a little bit of water, before adding it to your dry ingedients. Mix everything together well and add enough water to reach a "wet toothepaste" consistancy. Keep track of the quantities you've added and write them down for next time. Preheat your oven to about 160c and place a large room fan in front of you oven with the door open just slightly, your oven is now a ghetto dyhydrator lol Spread your mix out on a sheet of baking paper. Place another sheet on top and use a rolling pin to flatten it right out. The thinner you make it the faster and better it dries- this needs to be fully 100 percent "cracker" dry as it is high in protein and will foul very fast if not dried properly- drying temps we use come close to pasteurisation temps so it is actually quite a sterile way to make clean food that won't go bad fast. Once it's dry enough- (You will be able to easily peel away the top sheet of baking paper without much sticking.) Start breaking it up into smaller pieces so it dries more efficiently. When it's fully "cracker dry" and crumbles between your fingers it's done, this takes only 1-2 hours and can be done without having to check it if you use a proper dehydrator. (Great investment if you plant to do this often.) Store in air type bags to reduce moisture and oxygen exposure. First introduction to my RCS: (the tanks a mess right now "shame" 10min later.... gone. Haha they showed massive interest so have all my Bettas. Hope you guys like it.
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  6. This is the new and improved steriliser. its basically just 40mm pvc pipe end cap with spacers made from 40mm pipe. 2 wires connected to mesh close together in the water. Splits the H20 on a molecular level, pretty cool for how simple it is. Normal copper wire will work but it will dissolve within a few minutes, ive just used stainless steel BBQ skewers, these also worked well to just hang the whole unit from the side of the tank, and the stainless steel mesh from a tea strainer. Then air line tubing to prevent the rods touching, and some heat shrink to hold it all together, You just have to do tight connections like unless you have a SS welder, 🙂 I'm just using 12v DC so in theory I could easily add a fader to control the intensity of the steriliser just like the fancy ones. I might do an actually write up on it later or something. For now I'm getting this bad boy in my zeb tank. its working great, now how long should I have it on for? Haha I was thinking starting at 15min per hour. Lol yeah it's pretty damn ghetto. Cheers
    3 likes
  7. ineke

    Taitibees

    just love the Taitibees you never know what you might get. I'm concentrating on Reds but the others are lovely in their own right. The blacks etc are my culls and the Reds my keepers. I have a large cull tank for the ones I'm not using.
    3 likes
  8. So what started as a few tanks and a sump is evolving into a shrimp room ... In the process of preparing and drilling several 3fters, the rack is up and a chiller has been added. Once I have some free time on my hands the tanks will go in.
    3 likes
  9. Letsgetsteve

    So far so good!?

    So we started keeping shrimp at the beginning of the summer and are doing well with our Caridinas and I just got stuff to take some pictures of them. Really good information on this board (sorry that we are more the lurker peeps then super active) as well as some great help from some locals who are now our friends really helped with our success! We are still sorting out issues with our neo's but now that we found our phosphate issue (over 20ppm in the tanks!) we should have those colonies kicking pretty darn soon. Let me know what you think and any tips on photographing the shrimp would be appreciated!
    3 likes
  10. jayc

    Calcium in exoskeleton

    @viridisornatus @NoGi I'm pretty sure the shrimps we keep have the bulk of their exoskeletons made up of calcium carbonates. Although some structures in crustaceans are made up of a calcium phosphate and carbonate mix. The possible use of the two forms of calcium on different parts of their body is for hardness and elasticity. For example, their mandibles need to be harder, so you'd find more phosphates there. While carbonates are more elastic for easier moulting. Shrimps, like fish, can absorb calcium from the water. If calcium is abundant enough in the water, the shrimps will obtain the majority of their calcium through their gills. Calcium in diet makes up the remaining source. It doesn't matter if the calcium is in the form of sulphate, chloride, nitrate or phosphate. The key is a balance with Magnesium. Magnesium keeps the calcium in a dissolved state. Magnesium also converts Vitamin D into its active form so that it can help calcium absorption.
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  11. That's the SKF spirit. Well done for being so generous.
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  12. revolutionhope

    Help! My fish are unwell

    http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5857f6dc778e0/20161120_194213.mp4 I think the pond is too cluttered with junk ?
    3 likes
  13. If they were flying around the tank, usually the males are trying to find the female to mate
    2 likes
  14. NoGi

    Welcome Greenfish

    Can't go wrong with cherry shrimp (red, orange and choc). Other cherry variants can be a little more stubborn. Some of the natives including DRS and DAS are good for beginners too.
    2 likes
  15. That's a first. You WANT to grow algae?!! I think you have come to the right place. There are lots of expert algae growers here 😝 3000K or 4000K and leave it on for 16 hours is my secret recipe.
    2 likes
  16. Cloudwarrior

    Office nano

    Just a few pics of my desktop setup. Finally getting it looking half decent with some plants. Picked up some yellow cherries last week that seem to be settling in well. Still need to work on getting my pH down so I can get my CRS breeding
    2 likes
  17. KeenShrimp

    Breeding neos in soft water

    Hi guys, I am currently doing the remineralisation experiments that Ineke is referring to that she is currently testing on her shrimp. As soon as I am completely finished tweaking the regime, I will post it in an article. It takes time as I a not afford to kill shrimp in haste, let alone other peoples livestock that they put their hearts and souls into- that is why Ineke is unable to provide details at the moment. The experiments are based on ShrimpyDaddy's principles that shrimp need trace minerals and nutrients from the water column as well as dietary inorganic and organically-complexed minerals to have a mirror-like shine, great colour, high level of activity and breeding success. I have no affiliation with his business, but would highly recommend having a look at his work and recommendations as he has a wealth of knowledge. The reasoning behind using Dr Tim's Freshwater probiotic is that it is a completely clear water-based bacterial solution. This means that there are no additional water-fouling agents added to the bacterial supplement that could potentially affect shrimplet survival. It contains mostly beneficial bacillus- type bacteria that outcompete vibrio. It is not a food source based product. I briefly mentioned the product in the write-up on the difference between BT-9, Bacter AE and Biozyme.
    2 likes
  18. For a while Biozyme was very hard to get .I used it mainly for my shrimplets so instead I started making my own powdered food. During the months I couldn't get the biozyme I didn't notice much difference in the survival rates which were and still are extremely high. I just never got back to buying the Biozyme and now that I am trying out the other products I don't add anything else to the tanks so I can get a true idea if the other products make a difference. I was having issues breeding OEBT so that is why I am trialling these other products . So far I notice better colour and more activity in their tank. As far as my other shrimp go I never had breeding issues and my tanks really are overflowing with shrimp -as I mentioned elsewhere I am having to separate out the males and females to stop breeding! I have however noticed an improvement in shell, depth of colour and colour coverage -noticeably so in my CRS where the improvement is really good- although selective breeding has been a big thing towards that end too.
    2 likes
  19. Disciple

    Disciples Small Rack

    Update for my set up. Set up the air pump made a closed circuit with pvc piping, drilled holes and stuck in some air valves. Working really well but in the future i would probably try make it from irrigation piping. Change the media in the biospon filters and used the power house. Added power house media on top of the ugf. Added soil and water and switched the filters on. The cycle has begun.
    2 likes
  20. keep us informed
    2 likes
  21. Hello, So I made this little tank and stand a few weeks back to go in my shed. It gets way to hot in here to have a normal co2 cylinder and I don't have a spare one floating around anyway, but I have lots of bits and pieces, So I made this: The reactor, Filter, night time shut off and proper needle valve to ensure the co2 level is constant and never rises. A diy wooden diffuser I made producing very fine pollen style bubbles. The only thing I would add if I could is a pressure relief valve, you can buy cheap kits off eBay that have one of these and a gauge, but this system doesn't seem to need it. Im also using a recipe I adapted from mycology research utilising sugars with more complex carbohydrates to give a more stable long term reaction, I started this recipe on the 28th of dec and it's still going strong. I had to remove the built in check valve from the other side of my needle valve (cause it's made for high pressure) it prevented co2 running to the diffuser at start up, and caused pressure to build up. I just used a standard air line check valve that requires less pressure to open and it's all working fine again. Atleast now I know standard airline push fittings hold up under the pressure, literally. I have used proper co2 tubing throughout, it's probably not needed considering this is a "constant" system but I had it laying around. The the solenoid valve which runs my "night time shut off" operates a bit different to a standard pressurised co2 system. I designed my solenoid on a T to the main line, It opens at night just venting co2 into the air instead of running into the tank, this is so pressure doesn't build up and wreck the whole system. My fav part is the diffuser TBH, I'm so fascinated by wooden diffusers. enjoy.
    2 likes
  22. anthonyd

    Steel/metallic blue

    Some of my steel blue, will start a specific tank next year for them
    2 likes
  23. tymotom

    Welcome tymotom

    Thank you for warm welcome. Have a grate day today. Wysłane z mojego Lenovo TAB S8-50L przy użyciu Tapatalka
    2 likes
  24. I did a bit of research and figured I have everything I need to make a steriliser, so I ended up making this little beast (just as a very raw prototype) and I'm so impressed with how well it's working. Im gonna make a better one for my zebra tank tomorrow.
    2 likes
  25. Damien

    A DIY Aquarium chiller

    Yep, I have 5.1°C temperature reduction in my 20L aquarium. No problem with the shrimps :)
    2 likes
  26. NoGi

    Calcium in exoskeleton

    @jayc?
    2 likes
  27. dmallia

    Welcome dmallia

    thanks for the welcome. I am in the process of building my first red cherry shrimp tank. I only kept amano shrimp in a community tank . Hopefully by next week all the supplies arrive so I start building.
    2 likes
  28. KeenShrimp

    Driftwood

    Just my two cents on what I have done: I would recommend it be as dry as a bone, plant sap kills shrimp fast. Wood that is heavy/hardwood works great. Preferably something found in or near a river bed that has already been exposed to water for some time, that way you can rule out plant sap. Then after collecting, high pressure wash or hose it off, boil it for as long as your family can stomach having it in the kitchen to kill whatever is living in the wood and then soak it in a tub of water with Seachem Prime for at least 2 weeks to make sure it is 100 recent shrimp safe. I added some tank water to the tub to colonise it with tank microbes. I have done this with a piece of wood collected near the beach. It might be overkill, but I value my shrimp. Second hand on Gumtree is cheap too 😀
    2 likes
  29. G'day Madmerv, Thanks for your reply. Here is a shot of the stuff I have now. Taken on my phone so the quality is definitely LQ. The only thing missing is the benibachi bee max but that is in the fridge till needed. I would love Seiryu stone but have read that it would raise the pH and hardness. I will be using RO/DI and adding GH+ so it may be possible to use less GH+ to get the pH to around 6-6.2. I am aiming for about 150 TDS. I am now looking at black+white agate but think this may have a similar issue. Another option may be slate. Don't fancy Dragon or Manten stone, although I may have to go down that route if I must have stone. The best option would be no stone but I want to use it to add false perspective, if at all possible with only 12" front to back. Mark.
    2 likes
  30. Shrimpmaster

    GH Boost with Calcium and Magnesium

    OMG, that's kinde stupid to overlooked that :P. Thanks. Gonne read up to that topic, just throw this one away ;). Great topic. You see, I underestimate the knowledge on this forum again. When I post something like this on a Dutch forum, the response would be, hu what's Magnesium?? That's why I've posted this, before even searching this category... Sorry bout that, but thanks again for the great info, that was what I was looking for.
    2 likes
  31. G'day Mate Sounds like you are pretty well set up. With regards to the rocks, it is pretty hit and miss depending on where the rocks come from. I'm in Perth and almost all local stone has some limestone in it. That is bad especially if you are using a lower PH. The only way to be positive the rock is not going to affect the water is to test is by putting it in your desired water and monitoring. I have some Seiryu stone in my RCS tank and it has not affected the water at all but i run PH 7.2 TDS 200-300. If it has increased the TDS by 20-50 or so i would not be able to tell and the PH is not really low enough to seriously dissolve any limestone between water changes for me to worry. Oh just a side note, i think all Seiryu stone now is not the real thing as the Jap government banned it's mining. This means it could have differing properties depending on where it was mined. Would love to see some photo's of your set up, even if it is just the tank with all the gear in boxes pilled in there. A set up journal is always best when started that way...Lol
    2 likes
  32. Always good to pay it forward when I get lucky☺️ Can you please send me some info on the food bags you use Jamie @newbreed They are very nice and I wanted to order some to package dry ferts. Much appreciated mate. Cheers.
    2 likes
  33. 1) How many IAL's should I use and how much will they affect the pH? As many as you want. There is no hard set rule on how many to use. They may or may not affect pH. 2) One of my LFS's suggested using peat moss but the product they had only lasts a month and I'd need to buy at least 6 boxes for it have any impact on the water given the size of the tank. Is there any product I can use to naturally lower pH? And if there is, where's the best place to buy it from? (Don't want to use chemicals bc it's bad for the shrimp and the phosphates would encourage algae growth.) RO/DI water or rain water. There's also alder cones. Anything that may naturally lower the pH (re: leaves, cones, peat) will also result in tea colored water or "black water". This would mean that it would be best to have at least one 55 gallon drum (208 liters) to store water in prior to doing water changes and either toss in a pump or an airstone to circulate the water, and toss in a bag of peat/cones/leaves to get the drum water to be the same as the tank water. 3) My RO water goes into a 1000 ltr water tank for when I need it for water changes. Is it worth dropping in IALs into the water tank (in a bag of some sort) to condition the water before use? If so, how many should I use and for how long? Have you tested the pH of the water after it's sat in this tank? Sometimes, allowing water to sit out overnight and aerating it can allow the pH to drop on it's own. If you were to try going the "black water" route, you would probably need a lot of leaves, cones and/or peat... 4) Any other suggestions? What is the GH, KH and TDS of the tank? What are those same parameters for the water going into the tank? (you mentioned RO - does it come out at 0 GH and KH? And low TDS?)
    2 likes
  34. Chindy

    Welcome Chindy

    SKF Aquatics (Shrimp Keepers Forum) welcomes Chindy. Please feel free to browse around and get to know others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. View Member regards, skfadmin Thanks for the add started with some rcs about a month ago and am addicted. Went and bought 3 more tanks for Christmas and will be dividing 1 up for some different colours.and then probably the other 2 haha I'm glad to have this much combined knowledge at my fingertips and looking forward to going through the forums thanks again
    2 likes
  35. newbreed

    ADA Amazonia too acidic?

    Good work @Zebra!! The SKF and Christmas spirit lives on!! Amazonia takes a good six weeks to cycle, hard to be patient I this hobby but well worth the wait. I have had culls from cherries and TBs thriving in Amazonia for well over eighteen months now. It will sit at lowph,at or below 6 for quite some time,but that's a good thing for Bluebolts and others TB types. Let it cycle and all will be well!!
    2 likes
  36. Zebra

    ADA Amazonia too acidic?

    Yeah that's the pen I won :) Xiao Mi. Really nice tds meter hey, @newbreed aquatics is great. All my shrimp have gone mad for their foods. I'm going to order a heap of mineral balls and other stuff from them after the new year.
    2 likes
  37. revolutionhope

    Welcome Chindy

    Hi chindy and welcome to the addiction :-)
    2 likes
  38. Zoidburg

    How many males in a tank?

    No longer have the tank (sold it), but here's a couple of pictures that were taken while it was still up. Fake plants were added for extra hiding places, which probably wasn't necessary... Shrimp are in at least one of the pictures, but they aren't easy to see... (low grades)
    2 likes
  39. Zebra

    ADA Amazonia too acidic?

    I recently won some really cool prizes including a new tds pen. You can have my old one if you want, it still works fine. Idk maybe that's a hassle haha and it's easier to buy one off eBay. But I would like to see my old one put to use by someone.
    2 likes
  40. Disciple

    Disciples Small Rack

    Slow and steady is my excuse. I have the tanks full of water for the last week to make sure there were no leaks and now they have been drained so i can set everything up. Cut the under gravel filters to size and they fit like a glove! Also check out my RO unit lol Hopefully I'll start the cycle by next Christmas if I am lucky 😑😑😑  Next update i will set up my airpump and hopefully some other fun stuff lol
    2 likes
  41. So happy with the find I thought I have to share :-) [emoji111] [emoji173]
    2 likes
  42. Forevermango

    Ferns & Mosses

    With lots of variety of mosses and ferns out there, here is a compile of Photos from the great Tomasz Wastowski of his current collection. Bolbitis sp. "Gau Angin" Microsorum "Small Leaf" Microsorum "Thunder Leaf" Microsorum "Short Narrow Leaf" Loxogramma sp. Wave Moss Mosses... Bolbitis sp. "Gua Angin", Bolbitis heteroclita "Cuspidata" & Buce. Brownie Jade Loxogramme sp. Amblystegiaceae Manaus "Queen Moss" Homalia sp "Rosa" Hymenophyllaceae sp. "Wayanad" Pteridophyta sp. "Xkiat" Microsorum sp "Trident" Plagiochcila sp. Cameroon Microsorum sp. Mini Windelov Fissidens Grandifrons var. Planiccaulis Microsorum sp. Fork Leaf Bolbitius Heteroclita Difformis Fissidens Adianthoides Fissidens Dubius & Fissidens from Poland Fissidens Dubius Fissidens from Poland Fissidens Geminiflorus "Nagasaki" Fissidens sp. "Himehouogoke" F. Nobilis, F. Zippelianus, F. Adianth, F. Dubius, F. Dubius 2, F. Poland Fissidens Nobilis
    2 likes
  43. I haven't had a chance to hook it up to my filter yet as I got the wrong sized tubes. I'll have to goto the fish store tomorrow. But here's a sneak peek. And a vid!
    2 likes
  44. RagingWind92

    Neocaridina culls and lines

    here's a decent shot from my phone of my BM. Im not really sure if it is but my lfs label them as BMs. The tank lighting sucks, just an old 10g flourescent light bulb. Will get some better pics up once everything is good. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
    1 like
  45. Brentwillmers

    Welcome Brentwillmers

    Thanks. Looking forward to learning and sharing my experiences in time to come. New to shrimp keeping so loads to learn. Thanks again
    1 like
  46. Nice @Zebra, so whatcha brewin' as a fortuitous byproduct? 😜
    1 like
  47. viridisornatus

    Calcium in exoskeleton

    Hello, I was wondering about the calcium in the chitin of shrimp in low KH environments. It is calcium carbonate in most crustaceans, is it the same in these shrimp? Tigers and cherries can adjust to low KH so I would guess it is, although apparently some crustaceans use calcium phosphate. Since the water contains no carbonates, are they getting it all from their diet as calcium carbonate, or are they able to absorb calcium sulfate/chloride/phosphate etc from water/food and combine it with metabolic carbonates? This is synthetically possible, and I got the impression that plants/algae can do it, as can bacteria. It seems like it should be possible since calcium ions can be transported dissociated in tissues. Does anyone know? Thanks :)
    1 like
  48. NoGi

    New Chat system

    Just updated to a newer version. Sidebar looks a lot better than before: Only on the front page of the forum at the moment while we test this out.
    1 like
  49. Jarad

    Welcome Chindy

    Welcome @Chindy, As @revolutionhope said "welcome to the addiction". Before you know it you'll be setting up breeding racks in the kitchen haha.
    1 like
  50. coryjames

    How many males in a tank?

    Zoidburg what's those stem plants the short bunches ? Reapens? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 like